Where can I find Replacement Bulbs for my Lights?

[FragMan07]

Hey everyone,

I'm worried my Zooanthids aren't opening up like they used to and it's been months since I have last changed the bulbs in my "Coralife 2x65 Power Compact w/ LED Lunar".


I don't want to get the wrong light and I have never gotten a replacement bulb before.


Can someone guide me in the right direction to purchase a replacement to I don't get the wrong light or wattage and kill myself.........or worse.........my tank!

[reeferman00]

try www.drsfostersmith.com

[artful-dodger]

Most of the RC sponsors selling dry goods can help you out. (I personally would recommend ReefGeek for personal assistance with lighting--give them a call.)

Since you know the wattage of your PC bulbs (65 watts -- bulbs may be labeled as 55 watts--same bulbs) you only need to make two more choices.

PC bulbs come with either the four pins in the plug arranged in a square or in a straight line. (I think you'll find the Coralife fixtures use the square pin, but always best to check)

Then you'll need to decide on "color" (usually specified as a temperature in degrees Kelvin) of the light that you like...more yellow/white or more blue. If the two bulbs are controlled by different switches, you may want one to be a "pure" blue actinic. If you liked the light color before, just get two more that match what4ever's printed on your current bulbs.

Again, I'd suggest a phone call to the Geek or other retailer that you've had good experience with in the past.

Now, with all that said, I would doubt that lighting is the likely problem with the zoanthids. Check into water quality issues.

[FragMan07]

Thanks for the ideas, I'm just nervous that maybe the lighting I have isn't optimal for my tank.

You have any feedback as to whether this lighting is adequate? I'm just real worried that my Zooanthids arent spreading fully, and my levels are all ok.

[artful-dodger]

If your listing of inhabitants is up to date (only inverts are zoanthids and feather dusters) then that lighting setup should be fine.

Do you have any algae problems? What's your pH? Specific gravity? How stable are these (and tank temperature)?

How frequently do you do water changes? How many gallons at a time? Have you changed salt brands or anything else in the process since they were doing well? How do you filter your water? Have you called your water company to see if they've made changes in their purification (like switching to chloramine)?

[mg426]

www.hellolights.com

[FragMan07]

I do have algae problems with my tank. I had a nasty bout with cyano a few months back that killed one of my mushroom rocks & I recently had a bad problem with Bubble algae (not sure if lighting has anything to do with that)

PH,Gravity, and temp are all stable in the tank. I do 10 gallon water changes every 3 weeks and have plenty of flow. Still have problems.

I have not changed any salt brands, I get my saltwater from a local fish store every time. I filter the water with a penguin biowheel. Maybe that is my problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks dodger and company.

[artful-dodger]

So far as I've ever read, there's nothing specific to bubble algae, but microalgae in general is driven by nutrients and light. Old PC bulbs are a possible contributing factor. (The general rule of thumb is to replace PCs every six months.)

The cyanobacteria is driven by nutrients...best "cures" are to reduce the nutrient levels and increase flow (avoid dead spots).

Do your zoas look better right after a water change or worse as you approach the 3 week mark?

How much gunk are you getting out with the Remora? Do you have the surface skimmer option on the intake? (I ask only because I used a Remora--without the option--on a 37g for a year or so and it didn't perform particularly well.)

How do the tanks at your LFS look? Do they do lots of saltwater or is it somewhat of a sideline part of their business. Assuming they use the same water that they sell, any problem with phosphorus or other "fertilizer" in their would be expected to be an issue for them as well (although they are probably doing more frequent cleaning and water changes). Do you know if they are mixing their saltwater with RO/DI water (I would expect so, but you never know).

What do you use for topoff water? If tap water, it is possible that you're introducing a tiny bit of something (chloramines, phosphorus or ???) each day that is building up.

Regarding the 2" sandbed--what is the substrate material? When you do water changes are you vacuuming the substrate? (not that you necessarily should, but with larger substrate like crushed coral, it is easy for a lot of food and waste to end up down in there.) If you do stir the substrate, do you get a lot of suspended brown gunk into the water column?

Going down another path on the search for nutrient sources. How much and how often do you feed? Some lower end foods can introduce phosphorus or other substances that can accumulate in your tank.

I think if it were my tank, I would:

1) cut feeding in half (or even more) The percs and damsel will do very well on only a tiny, tiny bit of food each day
2) ask the LFS about their water purification system and process
3) if you really trust the LFS's marine expertise, have them do a full battery of tests on your tank water (anything you're not testing yourself: phosphorus, iodine/iodide, copper, etc.) Also ask them to do the basic ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests...it is always possible that your test kit isn't reading accurately. (It is common for the LFS to charge a few bucks for doing water testing.)
2) switch brands of food, especially if you're currently using a lower-cost brand
3) consider doing 5 gallon water changes every week...admittedly a pain (unless you stop at the LFS at least once a week anyway )
4) do change out the PC bulbs if they're old and possibly cut down on the duration of lighting (these would be measures to deal with algae problems while you reduce nutrients--the light shouldn't be an issue for your zoanthids)

Not sure that any of that will be the solution but I do think water quality might be the place to concentrate...it may take awhile to clear things up if that is the issue.