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01/15/2008, 09:02 AM | #1 |
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What do you think about this plumbing? (pic's)
I'm working on a new pump set up since the addition of my new skimmer has pushed my demand for water flow. Now I have two mag 18's. They run everything listed. u/v... phos. reactor...carbon reactor...skimmer...and both return lines.
I'm going to go with the external pump this time. I am looking at the HammerHead. It has a 1 1/2 inch outlet, therefore the main line in this pic is also 1 1/2 inch. It goes 20 inches high. This goes right to the floor so the distance here will be shorter depending how tall the Hammerhead is. Then you can see it goes into a "T". It stays 1 1/2 inch to both ends, where you see the 90 degree elbows. These will drop to 3/4 inch and return water to the D.T. They raise 40 inches to the top of the water level in the tank, go through another 90 degree and dump into the D.T. The 8 valves you see coming off the main line reduce to 1 inch and will remain this. But due to head clearance they will have a 90 degree elbow directly above the 1 inch valves. (should be the only one clear through and back to the sump) So any thoughts or ideas? Will this work with the Hammerhead, or it the first "T" to close to the pump? Lucky
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01/15/2008, 11:21 AM | #2 |
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Bumpity bump!
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01/15/2008, 01:07 PM | #3 |
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surly someone has some sort of input on this idea...
Lucky
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01/15/2008, 01:15 PM | #4 |
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I've used the hammerhead and even with that setup you are going to have an enormous amount of flow. Currently i run my manifold off of a Dart which is working out quite well for me (return, UV, Chiller, 3x phosban, Ca reactor). The only thing I would be weary about is the skimmer. Are you feeding or are you driving it? If you are driving your skimmer off of a manifold it would be very very inconsistent, but if you are feeding your recirculating skimmer then it would be fine. Oh yeah, another thing, why is there a red valve when everything else is black. It throws off the aesthetic balance of your manifold.
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01/15/2008, 01:27 PM | #5 |
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lol.... I bought the red valve at HomeDepot and brought it home to size it up... I worked, so I went to lowe's and blue is all they have.
Not sure on the skimmer? It is a reeflo orca 250, The flow requires 400-700 gph. But the mags I have are running everything. Therefore everything except the phos. reactor is way, way under the min. flow rate. Will this manifold have a consistant flow from the setting I set each valve at? Or will it just be too much to control the hammerhead? Lucky
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01/15/2008, 01:49 PM | #6 |
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You'll be able to control the flow to each valve with no problem. It's just that once you shut it and turn it on again, the flow coming from each output may not be the same as when you previously had it. Especially if you have something that adds a lot of back pressure, but doesn't seem like you do. In your application the slight variation won't matter much I don't think. The orca 250 is a recirculating skimmer so it will be fine using your manifold to feed it. If you were using a beckett or any pressure injector skimmer off of this then the performance will be extremely erratic. Good luck and nice skimmer you have there, i just saw your pics in your gallery.
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01/15/2008, 01:58 PM | #7 |
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Thanks,
And I appreciate you comments on the manifold as well. Have a good day. Lucky
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01/15/2008, 02:08 PM | #8 |
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on your main pipe up why do you need a ball valve there, since everything else is on ball valves cant it be controlled all from the manifolds....
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01/15/2008, 02:31 PM | #9 |
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Well I can controll the flow through all the other valves. But the return lines to the tank are on each end. they didn't show up very good in the pic. But the are the 90 degree elbows on each end. And I figured If I put a "main valve" just above the pump I could control how much flow goes back to the tank as well as shuting the entire system down to remove the pump or whatever the need may be.
Not sure if this is a good idea or not? I have never had an external pump before. Lucky
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01/15/2008, 03:45 PM | #10 |
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It's a good idea to have a main valve to shut everything off at once, in case something happens and you don't know what is leaking. I'd also add a union before the main valve in case you need to disconnect it for maintenance and what not.
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01/15/2008, 03:52 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Very constructive advice. I have not yet glued anything. I'm waiting on the pump to set everything in place and double check the final fit. The union is a great idea. I think I'm going to put one by the "T" as well. That way I can put the right and left sides in as two peices. As one long peice this thing is tough to put under the tank. Lucky
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01/15/2008, 04:21 PM | #12 |
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Lucky,
That's a good idea, that way it'll be easier to install and disassemble. A lot of people don't realize this but the OD of the input and output of the hammerhead are standard size that accepts standard PVC piping. To cut down on vibration and the need of union, I use a rubber coupling made by Fernco. Lowes and HD sells them. Here is an older pic of my sump where you can see the couplings. It is easier and cheaper then a union, also like i mentioned it helps a lot of vibration. Gabe |
01/15/2008, 05:59 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
This is on the return from the skimmer. Seeing your pic. I assume it will be of on a preasure rated pump. This is good. Thanks for the pic. and the hint on keeping the vibrations down. I have never had an external pump, so this type of info in advance is priceless to me. Lucky
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01/16/2008, 12:06 PM | #14 |
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Gate valves would be much easier to throttle and control your flow.
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