Concerned about power outages...

AngelLeah1981 · 01/27/2008, 02:37 PM

A couple people have told me where you have the holes drilled in the tank is important because in case of a power outage you don't want the water going into the floor. 2 days ago the lfs said that isn't what determines whether the water goes into the floor or not. shrugs shoulders. ....and of course he didn't want to explain it to me because he never wants to explain things to me. What are the other things that will prevent the water from going into the floor in case of a power outage. Also, I know there is a piece of equipment that cost betwen $30-75 (can't remember which) that keeps the tank going in case of power failure. Does anyone know the name or the link where I can see this? How powerful does it have to be? Which one do you suggest? The cheapest best one for a 120 gallon. Thanks.

Kemo484 · 01/27/2008, 03:13 PM

If the piece of equipment your thinking of is a battery backup, there are several different ones. I have a APC, runs about 30 bucks, I only have my powerheads plugged into it because battery backups only run for about 20 minutes to and hour. Your best bet is a battery air pump, like the ones you'll find at a bait shop. They make ones that you plug in and when the power goes out they turn on. These run from about $6 to $100. As for the water flowing out onto the floor, I know theres a type of backflow valve that prevents this when the water goes out, but sorry I'm not sure what it's called.

Agu · 01/27/2008, 03:29 PM

Your tank will beck drain to the lowest plumbing point in the tank in a power outage. That can be either a drain or return that backdrains to the sump. To prevent a flood first thing you need to do is simulate a power outage to determine if the sump has the capacity to hold all the water that drains from the tank.

If it can't handle the back draining you either have to increase sump capacity or limit back draining. Raising the plumbing or lowering sump volume.

Aquarist007 · 01/27/2008, 04:30 PM

drill an 1/8 inch hole on the underside of a loc line(the return line in your tank) do this as close to the surface of the water as you can
then shut off the power and test as Agu suggested

The tiny hole will cut off the siphoning when the water level goes below it

I would test this at least once a month as the tiny whole can get plugged--other then that it is probably the most problematic setup you can get

re power outages---If you are going to get a battery backup then I would add the heater and the power heads to it only
The tank can go without filtration longer then it can go without heat and circulation and these things usually draw less power giving you a longer survival time.

01/27/2008, 02:37 PM	#1
AngelLeah1981 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 16	Concerned about power outages... A couple people have told me where you have the holes drilled in the tank is important because in case of a power outage you don't want the water going into the floor. 2 days ago the lfs said that isn't what determines whether the water goes into the floor or not. shrugs shoulders. ....and of course he didn't want to explain it to me because he never wants to explain things to me. What are the other things that will prevent the water from going into the floor in case of a power outage. Also, I know there is a piece of equipment that cost betwen $30-75 (can't remember which) that keeps the tank going in case of power failure. Does anyone know the name or the link where I can see this? How powerful does it have to be? Which one do you suggest? The cheapest best one for a 120 gallon. Thanks.

01/27/2008, 03:29 PM	#3
Agu Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Sarasota, Florida Posts: 30,279	Your tank will beck drain to the lowest plumbing point in the tank in a power outage. That can be either a drain or return that backdrains to the sump. To prevent a flood first thing you need to do is simulate a power outage to determine if the sump has the capacity to hold all the water that drains from the tank. If it can't handle the back draining you either have to increase sump capacity or limit back draining. Raising the plumbing or lowering sump volume. __________________ Less technology , more biology . Current Tank Info: 30 gallon half cube and 5.5, both reef tanks

01/27/2008, 04:30 PM	#4
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	drill an 1/8 inch hole on the underside of a loc line(the return line in your tank) do this as close to the surface of the water as you can then shut off the power and test as Agu suggested The tiny hole will cut off the siphoning when the water level goes below it I would test this at least once a month as the tiny whole can get plugged--other then that it is probably the most problematic setup you can get re power outages---If you are going to get a battery backup then I would add the heater and the power heads to it only The tank can go without filtration longer then it can go without heat and circulation and these things usually draw less power giving you a longer survival time. __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

01/27/2008, 03:13 PM	#2
Kemo484 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sarasota, Florida Posts: 158	If the piece of equipment your thinking of is a battery backup, there are several different ones. I have a APC, runs about 30 bucks, I only have my powerheads plugged into it because battery backups only run for about 20 minutes to and hour. Your best bet is a battery air pump, like the ones you'll find at a bait shop. They make ones that you plug in and when the power goes out they turn on. These run from about $6 to $100. As for the water flowing out onto the floor, I know theres a type of backflow valve that prevents this when the water goes out, but sorry I'm not sure what it's called.