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#1 |
Moved On
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: pataskala, oh
Posts: 589
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who uses metal halides without a chiller?
building a canopy for my 90 gal and want to add a mh retro kit but do not want to get a chiller. are there tricks? is it possible?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North East PA
Posts: 472
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i have a 250mh with 2 75w vho's over my 58g and in the summer all i do is run a clip on fan over my sump in the summer time, in the winter my temp stays at 78 constantly
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fl
Posts: 150
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i ran 2X 250watt halides on a 90 8 inches above he surface with NO fans open top and my temp was 81-82 all year round on my 24 pod i have a 250watt HQI pendant with one fan and the hottest i got was 82.6 soo dont go over 250 watt bulbs and i think you will be fine
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Millbrook, AL
Posts: 2,520
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I have an 80g bow w/ enclosed top. I upgraded last summer to a MH retrofit kit w/ 2x150w & 2x54w t5's. I got QUITE hot in the summer months since it's very hot here in Alabama, so what I did was have lights come on at night and off during the day. Hottest it got doing that was maybe 82. I'm on regular schedule now for winter, no problems at all. Oh, I didn't use fans either
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#5 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Carol Stream, IL
Posts: 23,162
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75 gal ( 30 gal sump ) 2*250 MH + 54*2 T5, clip on fans over sump.
58 gal ( 20 gal sump ) 1*175 MH + 96*2 PC, clip on fan over sump, one over tank 29 gal ( 10 gal sump ) 1*250 MH, clip on fan over sump Now that it winter the fans almost never come on. During the summer they do the job.
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Click my name and then "visit toddrtrex's homepage" for tank pictures Current Tank Info: 210g reef and 65g reef |
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#6 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: germantown,wi
Posts: 2,339
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2 250w MH 2 96w Actinics, I have a computer fan to cool the lights above the glass lens in my hood for the winter time, summer time I run the same style fan below the lens when the MH are on. The hood is sealed sitting on the tank.
Bob |
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#7 |
Recovering Detritophobe
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 7,443
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You'll just need a few fans. One evacuating the hot air out of the canopy, and maybe blowing on the water surface of the tank, and one blowing on the sump.
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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple." Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston/Kingwood Tx
Posts: 66
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I have a 215g without a chiller, running 3 250w mh and 6 39w t5s. I just have 8 fans and temp stays at 78-79 always yr round. House stays at 70 btw though.
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Beaverton
Posts: 5,290
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150w on 30g tank. Light is about 8 inches from the water. No chiller.
Do have open vents on the top of the canopy with a fan pointing up and out. Heat rises. Tank sits a 75F.
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120g mixed reef 90g QT |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 140
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4 X 250 on a 240 with completely closed canopy. I use a 6" inline inductor fan that exhausts all air through the wall to the garage.
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#11 |
Moved On
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: pataskala, oh
Posts: 589
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thanks alot guys. so i guess il just need some fans. thanks again
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#12 |
RC Mod
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My regular light kit has one blowing in, one blowing out [computer fans] and glass on the bottom: no heating issues even without central air in a 90 degree summer: just add a fan in the sump area. With central air, no sweat at all.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
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#13 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,619
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Having central air is the key.
I do not have it in my offfice and must run a chiller.
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150 gallon Perfecto with 1500 gph GH overflow / DIY stand-wine bar / Dart Return / SRO XP3000 Ext skimmer / 75 g frag / 40 g fuge / 40 g DIY sump / Orphek P156 & Kessil 150A Current Tank Info: 150 DT/ 40B fuge/ 75g frag/ 40 g sump/ SRO XP 3000 Ext/ TUNZEs & VorTechs circulation/Dart return/ MTC Pro Cal/ UV & Oz |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 1,411
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I have 3x 150w hqi plus 2 96w actinic over my 125. I have two fairly high cfm fans( I think 100+cfm) hooked up to my ac jr with heater also and tank stays at 78.5-79.5 at all times.
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"Rather than love, than money, than faith, than fame, than fairness... give me truth." Henry David Thoreau Click on red house for build thread. Current Tank Info: 135 gallon corner. 3x kessil a360we's, gyre xf150, custom "L" shaped sump, all on apex |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 27
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I run 3 250w MH on my 125 that has a canopy and I don't use a chiller at all or have central air. I have 4 6"Clip on fans that are controlled by my RKII and they keep it constantly 78-79 even in the summer when the house actually reaches 85 or so the fans do the job. I have one in the sump and two that blow on the water surface and one that sucks air out. I also have 2 4" IceCap fans on either side of the canopy that blow in whenever the lights are on. Given it does evap about 3-4 gallons/day in the summer.
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#16 |
Where am I?
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I have 2-25o wMH and 4-65w Actinics, and dont run fans EVER. My tank doesnt get over 83 all year round. I think it depends on your house if you have central air and the region were you live.
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I prefer not to think before I speak, I like to be just as surprised as everyone else by what comes out of my mouth. Current Tank Info: I have a 180 gal mostly LPS corals, it contains 1 Val. Tang, 1 yellow striped clown fish, 3 percula clownfish, a blood shrimp, cleaner shrimp and a sand shifting goby, 5 pajama cardinals, 1 green chromis. Also a 75 gal. sump/fug. |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Panorama City, CA
Posts: 4,703
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I don't know about a 250-watter but I've had a 175w on an old 55G that ran fine.... even on a hot SoCal summer.
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Function before fashion Current Tank Info: 120g SPS Tank (48x24x24) |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,045
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2 x 150w lamps on a 55g and my temp stays between 77-80 all year.
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 582
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I run 700+ watts of light on a 90g with no chiller, but i dunno man, a canopy is gonna make this hard imo. I just have a current outer orbit on legs, with no canopy. That canopy is gonna trap a ton of heat.
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 52
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If it gets too hot what you can do is freeze some of your tank water and place it in front of your powerhead to drop the temp, i've never could understand spending the extra for a chiller.
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#21 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 582
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Sometimes stuff is expensive. I couldn't imagine constantly freezing water and putting it in my tank. Sometimes spending money is unavoidable, atleast if you want to do it right. Depending on the size of the halides, the canopy is going to create the need for A LOT of ventilation. The ventilation is going to increase evaporation. You might have to compensate for several gallons a day evaporation. Its definitely doable, but your tank won't be able to be left alone (vacations, business tripes, ect). Probably have to set up an auto-top of system, atleast I would.
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#22 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jersey
Posts: 7,384
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We have 3-250 watt MH's and 4x96 actinic PC's on our 125 and don't use a chiller. The only thing we do in the summer is change our time for the halides to come on/off. They come on much much earlier before it gets too hot during the day. The tank might only go up a few degrees but not much. Plus we put on one of those clip on fans which helps.
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We Don't Have a Signature..... Current Tank Info: 125 Gallon Reef |
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#23 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alexandria, KY
Posts: 1,937
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90 gallon tank with 2 400 watt MH in LMIII reflectors. These guys sit 12 inches from the water and I can keep the tank under 82 with one rather noisy 8 inch fan. I am in between chillers at the moment but it can be done. I don't recommend it for the reason that when the house temp swings, so does the tank, fanns are also dust magnets that need periodic cleaning, PITA. The piece of mind from the chiller is worth every penny, it's just tough to give up that much coin. I remember saying the same thing about setting up a robust ATO. Glad I did that too.
FWIW --landlord
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Forget the Turtle Man, you got the Coral Man Live Action Fragging! Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon SPS Reef (Sump, Fuge, Skimmer, CX reactor, Chemical filtration, Overflow) by Lifereef, 2x400W 20K Radiums on IceCaps, 2x39W T5 "For fun", RK2, 4x Tunze 6055, Aqua Logic 1/3 HP Chiller, DIY RO/DI ATO 2-Part via Litermeter. Lotsa Clownfish |
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#24 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cowlesville, NY
Posts: 119
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If anything I use my Halide for heat. My tank is in a room that is usually kept around 60 degrees. It's a 250 watt MH. With a 300 watt heater and the halide my tank stays right at 75 degrees.
I will be adding another halide when I get my tax refund. We shall see if it adds too much heat. |
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#25 |
Recovering Detritophobe
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 7,443
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It also helps to have an open back on the canopy, and ventilated top. Mine is essentially a front with 2 doors, 2 sides, and a 1x4 across the top which I screwed my reflector into. The back is open, and I stapled some plastic window screening across the back to keep jumpers in.
__________________
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple." Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles |
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