is it possible to use tap water to cycle my saltwater tank

DGlove904 · 02/27/2008, 05:12 PM

is it possible to use tap water to cycle my saltwater tank please dont bann me

aquaman67 · 02/27/2008, 05:19 PM

Yes it's possible but not a good idea.

Most tap water has phosphate added and isn't something you want to start off with, IMO.

Acillaton · 02/27/2008, 05:44 PM

Also, you can have a copper in your tap water, what is a pain in the neck to remove later because copper may stay in your LR and can get into the silicone too. Sooo, I would say, no good idea.

ezcompany · 02/27/2008, 06:01 PM

yup, copper may come from old copper plumbing.
best thing for you to do is buy ro/di water and grab a TDS (total dissolved solid) meter to test the water then mix your own salt. or you can just buy premixed water from your LFS.

jonbry123 · 02/27/2008, 06:14 PM

Not only can there be toxic metals in your tap water but you will have unless coming from a well chlorine and/or chlorimines in the water. These are deadly to all saltwater and even freshwater animals. If you don't have or can't afford to buy RO/DI water or a RO unit and have to use tap water I would highly recommend using SeaChem's Prime. It is a water conditioner that eliminates all the above elements instantly. I used to use tap water on my FO tank and every water change included the use of this item with no ill effects, but if this is a tank with inverts you really should use RO/DI water IMO.

Scott

DGlove904 · 02/27/2008, 07:14 PM

ok good advice guys i was thinking just fill up my tank with tap water with no sand or live rock and treat it then when my conditions become stable add sand salt and rock. Then eventually get an ro/di filter. My LFS store has free water but i have no way to transport it to my house(I have a 110 gallon tank so thats alot of h20 w/ a 29 gallon sump)

jonbry123 · 02/27/2008, 07:20 PM

Definitely get the Prime it is a great product that I've used for years. About a year ago I got something in my water doing a water change. Might have been some latex paint, won't go into all the details but in the morning after the water change all my angels and butterflys were almost dead. Quickly added the Prime and when I got home in the afternoon the fish that were nearly dead were ok. If it wasn't for the Prime I would have lost a lot more fish. Good luck.

Scott

DGlove904 · 02/27/2008, 07:53 PM

thanks for the advice will get some in the morning

SReef · 02/28/2008, 03:12 PM

Yes, but I would get the tap water tested before you do so as it can have a load of problems. I had a buddy that did this and his tank broke out with a red alge problem and it took two months of various treatment methods to get the problem resloved. The net net is tap water caarries organic matter that can reek havoc to your tank. It is better to use RO water.

DGlove904 · 02/28/2008, 03:21 PM

I went to petsmart and got some SeaChem, man this stuff smells strong.

Curve · 02/28/2008, 03:38 PM

You can buy 5 gallon buckets with lids or 5 gallon water jugs for aroun $5 each. I bought 20 and transported my water that way. I have really bad tap water and would never be able to get it right.

suzimcmullen · 02/28/2008, 03:50 PM

OMG...Did it take a whole pickup and an entire garage to store 20 5 gallon buckets?! I have a 22 feet long by 12 foot wide grow room and much of my hydroponic units are homemade bubbler units made with 5 gallon buckets. I've never counted, but I probably have around 20ish of them in the room and barely any room to walk.

Suzi

Curve · 02/28/2008, 03:51 PM

I have a large storage shed and that's where the majority of them stay. I am working on an ro/di unit not.

DGlove904 · 02/28/2008, 04:16 PM

yeah the only problem is that I stay in a townhouse and we have a 1 car gargage w/ no backyard so space is very limited.

Curve · 02/28/2008, 04:25 PM

I guess that was a bad suggestion then. See if you can borrow a 55 gallon container from the fish store and a pump. Then it would only take 2 or 3 trips instead of 20.

DGlove904 · 02/28/2008, 08:00 PM

ok i tested my water nitrates are 0 phosphtaes are almost zero and my ph is around 7.6 keep in mind this is w/o salt sand or rock just bare bottom

Curve · 02/28/2008, 08:28 PM

I haven't had a run in with phophates yet but I hear they are bad over time.

DGlove904 · 02/28/2008, 10:12 PM

yeah i know thats y im going to get aa couple of buckets of ro watr from my lfs and invest in an ro/di system

tmz · 02/29/2008, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DGlove904
yeah i know thats y im going to get aa couple of buckets of ro watr from my lfs and invest in an ro/di system

I don't think I'm following what you are trying to accomplish. A tankfull of water with no rock or sand will not cycle. There is no surface or food for the bacteria

DGlove904 · 02/29/2008, 04:02 PM

Ok i have salt and sand but i filled up my tank with tap water, I was trying to treat my water first then add the sand then salt. Is there a certain parameter I must hit first to add the salt / sand?

camlov2 · 02/29/2008, 04:47 PM

I don't understand what parameters you are trying to settle before adding salt? The only thing you could get right is the temp. Adding salt is going to change nearly everything else.

I am hoping you don't think you can cycle a tank and then add salt.

kriation · 02/29/2008, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DGlove904
Ok i have salt and sand but i filled up my tank with tap water, I was trying to treat my water first then add the sand then salt. Is there a certain parameter I must hit first to add the salt / sand?

DGlove - I'm currently in the process (like you) of putting together a tank. My process is/will be the following:

1) Add all equipment (filter, heater, light, etc.)
2) Add 50-75% of total water (I'm going to be adding 30lbs of rock, so I had to compensate by not adding 100% of the tank's capacity with water)
3) Turn on filter, heater, pumps, etc.
4) Dissolve salt
5) Wait 24-36 hours for the system to balance (When I mean balance, I mean it in regard to the temperature you want, and to make sure salinity is where you want to it to be - Get a decent thermometer, and hydrometer/refractor)
6) Add live rock and live substrate
7) Wait for the tank to cycle

I'm currently at step 5. I thought I had a temperature problem, but it looks like my digital thermometer isn't as accurate as I would've liked. I compared it to a glass thermometer, and the digital is about 2 degrees off from what the glass reads, and from what the heater is set to.

Once you add the rock, and the substrate, you'll have to do start testing the water to make sure it cycles properly, and that it's in the proper ph range, and salinity.

Good Luck!

DGlove904 · 02/29/2008, 05:38 PM

Ok thanks. I thought I had to have my water at a certain parameter because I am not using ro water im starting my cycle with tap water. I added Prime Seachem yesterday. So I will add my salt tomorow, then i will add my sand. So from thereI can add stuff (conditioners) to raise or lower my ph etc. since im using tap water.

DGlove904 · 02/29/2008, 05:43 PM

to better expalin i guess i was trying to treat my tap water to get close to ro water as possible so it is puren then add salt/sand is this better??? Read above post ^^^^^

AZDesertRat · 02/29/2008, 06:30 PM

Chemical treatments are no substitute for RO/DI water.
The absolute best advice I could possibly give a new reefer is start out with RO/DI from day one and you never have that doubt in your mind. You have absolutely no control over the quality of tap water period. Just because it tastes good does not by any means indicate it is good for a reef tank, quite the opposite in fact. Good tasting water is usually high in minerals, many of which we do not want in our tanks.
Use RO/DI from the beginning and always use it for top off and water changes and you are almost guaranteed to have a better more stable system from the very beginning. Chemical like Prime are not a sham but very close to it. They do not remove things, they bind them and leave them there, they are not miracle workers any more than a magnet in a tube they call the Eco Aqualizer is.

02/27/2008, 05:12 PM	#1
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	is it possible to use tap water to cycle my saltwater tank is it possible to use tap water to cycle my saltwater tank please dont bann me

02/27/2008, 06:01 PM	#4
ezcompany Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 4,640	yup, copper may come from old copper plumbing. best thing for you to do is buy ro/di water and grab a TDS (total dissolved solid) meter to test the water then mix your own salt. or you can just buy premixed water from your LFS. __________________ Jin Have a nice day! Current Tank Info: IM40

02/27/2008, 06:14 PM	#5
jonbry123 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: allentown, pa Posts: 581	Not only can there be toxic metals in your tap water but you will have unless coming from a well chlorine and/or chlorimines in the water. These are deadly to all saltwater and even freshwater animals. If you don't have or can't afford to buy RO/DI water or a RO unit and have to use tap water I would highly recommend using SeaChem's Prime. It is a water conditioner that eliminates all the above elements instantly. I used to use tap water on my FO tank and every water change included the use of this item with no ill effects, but if this is a tank with inverts you really should use RO/DI water IMO. Scott __________________ Bryan "You can swim all day in the Sea of Knowledge and still come out completely dry."-Norman Juster Current Tank Info: 300gl FOWLR/155glRT

02/27/2008, 07:20 PM	#7
jonbry123 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: allentown, pa Posts: 581	Definitely get the Prime it is a great product that I've used for years. About a year ago I got something in my water doing a water change. Might have been some latex paint, won't go into all the details but in the morning after the water change all my angels and butterflys were almost dead. Quickly added the Prime and when I got home in the afternoon the fish that were nearly dead were ok. If it wasn't for the Prime I would have lost a lot more fish. Good luck. Scott __________________ Bryan "You can swim all day in the Sea of Knowledge and still come out completely dry."-Norman Juster Current Tank Info: 300gl FOWLR/155glRT

02/28/2008, 03:38 PM	#11
Curve Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana Posts: 652	You can buy 5 gallon buckets with lids or 5 gallon water jugs for aroun $5 each. I bought 20 and transported my water that way. I have really bad tap water and would never be able to get it right. __________________ If you don't take some meds, you're going to burn out of this hobby everytime a shrimp farts. Current Tank Info: 210 aggresive, 3 gallon led build

02/27/2008, 05:19 PM	#2
aquaman67 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tennessee Posts: 7,629	Yes it's possible but not a good idea. Most tap water has phosphate added and isn't something you want to start off with, IMO.

02/27/2008, 05:44 PM	#3
Acillaton Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: CT Posts: 430	Also, you can have a copper in your tap water, what is a pain in the neck to remove later because copper may stay in your LR and can get into the silicone too. Sooo, I would say, no good idea.

02/27/2008, 07:14 PM	#6
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	ok good advice guys i was thinking just fill up my tank with tap water with no sand or live rock and treat it then when my conditions become stable add sand salt and rock. Then eventually get an ro/di filter. My LFS store has free water but i have no way to transport it to my house(I have a 110 gallon tank so thats alot of h20 w/ a 29 gallon sump)

02/27/2008, 07:53 PM	#8
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	thanks for the advice will get some in the morning

02/28/2008, 03:12 PM	#9
SReef Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Campbell CA Posts: 53	Yes, but I would get the tap water tested before you do so as it can have a load of problems. I had a buddy that did this and his tank broke out with a red alge problem and it took two months of various treatment methods to get the problem resloved. The net net is tap water caarries organic matter that can reek havoc to your tank. It is better to use RO water.

02/28/2008, 03:21 PM	#10
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	I went to petsmart and got some SeaChem, man this stuff smells strong.

02/28/2008, 03:50 PM	#12
suzimcmullen Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Midwest Posts: 890	OMG...Did it take a whole pickup and an entire garage to store 20 5 gallon buckets?! I have a 22 feet long by 12 foot wide grow room and much of my hydroponic units are homemade bubbler units made with 5 gallon buckets. I've never counted, but I probably have around 20ish of them in the room and barely any room to walk. Suzi

02/28/2008, 03:51 PM	#13
Curve Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana Posts: 652	I have a large storage shed and that's where the majority of them stay. I am working on an ro/di unit not. __________________ If you don't take some meds, you're going to burn out of this hobby everytime a shrimp farts. Current Tank Info: 210 aggresive, 3 gallon led build

02/28/2008, 04:16 PM	#14
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	yeah the only problem is that I stay in a townhouse and we have a 1 car gargage w/ no backyard so space is very limited.

02/28/2008, 04:25 PM	#15
Curve Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana Posts: 652	I guess that was a bad suggestion then. See if you can borrow a 55 gallon container from the fish store and a pump. Then it would only take 2 or 3 trips instead of 20. __________________ If you don't take some meds, you're going to burn out of this hobby everytime a shrimp farts. Current Tank Info: 210 aggresive, 3 gallon led build

02/28/2008, 08:00 PM	#16
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	ok i tested my water nitrates are 0 phosphtaes are almost zero and my ph is around 7.6 keep in mind this is w/o salt sand or rock just bare bottom

02/28/2008, 08:28 PM	#17
Curve Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana Posts: 652	I haven't had a run in with phophates yet but I hear they are bad over time. __________________ If you don't take some meds, you're going to burn out of this hobby everytime a shrimp farts. Current Tank Info: 210 aggresive, 3 gallon led build

02/28/2008, 10:12 PM	#18
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	yeah i know thats y im going to get aa couple of buckets of ro watr from my lfs and invest in an ro/di system

02/29/2008, 04:02 PM	#20
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	Ok i have salt and sand but i filled up my tank with tap water, I was trying to treat my water first then add the sand then salt. Is there a certain parameter I must hit first to add the salt / sand?

02/29/2008, 04:47 PM	#21
camlov2 Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern California Posts: 551	I don't understand what parameters you are trying to settle before adding salt? The only thing you could get right is the temp. Adding salt is going to change nearly everything else. I am hoping you don't think you can cycle a tank and then add salt. __________________ "can I pet him?" Brian Current Tank Info: none

02/29/2008, 05:38 PM	#23
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	Ok thanks. I thought I had to have my water at a certain parameter because I am not using ro water im starting my cycle with tap water. I added Prime Seachem yesterday. So I will add my salt tomorow, then i will add my sand. So from thereI can add stuff (conditioners) to raise or lower my ph etc. since im using tap water.

02/29/2008, 05:43 PM	#24
DGlove904 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Jacksonville,Florida Posts: 733	to better expalin i guess i was trying to treat my tap water to get close to ro water as possible so it is puren then add salt/sand is this better??? Read above post ^^^^^

02/29/2008, 06:30 PM	#25
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Chemical treatments are no substitute for RO/DI water. The absolute best advice I could possibly give a new reefer is start out with RO/DI from day one and you never have that doubt in your mind. You have absolutely no control over the quality of tap water period. Just because it tastes good does not by any means indicate it is good for a reef tank, quite the opposite in fact. Good tasting water is usually high in minerals, many of which we do not want in our tanks. Use RO/DI from the beginning and always use it for top off and water changes and you are almost guaranteed to have a better more stable system from the very beginning. Chemical like Prime are not a sham but very close to it. They do not remove things, they bind them and leave them there, they are not miracle workers any more than a magnet in a tube they call the Eco Aqualizer is.