LPS Coral Help

RyanMcLaughlin · 03/19/2008, 04:47 PM

I am planning on only having LPS and clams in my tank and was wondering what to start out with. I am thinking of like Brain corals, doughnuts, trumpets, Bubble Coral, etc. Any advice would be appreciated.

ahullsb · 03/19/2008, 05:25 PM

Those all sound like good additions. What kind of lighting do you have?

Aquarist007 · 03/19/2008, 05:30 PM

lighting and flow are two important factors in raising corals.
You should have a flow of between 20-40 times your tank vol in gph but should also create low flow areas for some lps corals

bubble coral can be a little tricky for new reefers
leathers, mushrooms and zooanthids are really forgiving corals and good starter corals

RyanMcLaughlin · 03/19/2008, 05:48 PM

I have dual 250 watt metal halides, two koralia 4's, an 800gph return pump and like 300gph from my canister so a little over 30x per hour. Which would you reccommend I should start with. I have read that leathers and zoos are good but I dont want to get a begginer coral just for that reason because I dont like the look of zoos or mushrooms on a rock. I want really bright colors and most leathers seem to have a dull color to them.

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 06:51 PM

Your lacking flow i would add 2 more k4's. Look here ( http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature/view )
Then the blenny could nip at the poylps.
If you dont have water test kits then i would start there first.

RyanMcLaughlin · 03/19/2008, 07:09 PM

How am I lacking flow. All that is putting out over 3000gph. I am getting tests this weekend.

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 07:21 PM

Canisters are more trouble then there worth and the flow rate is at the pump and then the farther away from the return it is the lower this amount drops. Same with return pump from sump and then if you have more then one return from the sump then the flow is even smaller. The return from the sump may help some but i wouldnt factor in its use for prop tank flow. I like to say ,whene you feed add extra frozen food and whatch how it floats.It should stay suspended and not drop or free float.Any area that it doenst stay suspended it where uneatin food , fish waste and other debris will collect and over time will cause nitrate and algea problems that water changes alone wont fix.By then you dont think it from flow cause it seemed to work up till then so you go out and buy some reactor or start adding additives and still cant control it leading to more frustration.
Placement also just as important as amount as with LR palcement. When you have problems that you cant control just remember this thread.
Then theres the O2 exchange that will be low with low flow. You need good constant flow for a happy healthy tank.

RyanMcLaughlin · 03/19/2008, 08:09 PM

Well adding more flow doesnt seem good for the tank because my pump is rated at 1000gph at 4ft. head loss and it only has 3.5ft. But I said 800 cuz some water is diverted back into the sump and because adding the koralias has already flattened parts of my sand bed so adding more flow might cause a sand storm. And the canister all I run is carbon in it so I dont think it loses to much flow. It only has like 3 ft. headloss. Also I do watch my food and I havent seen it settle anywhere. It goes to the bottom and when it is about to touch a flow will sweep it up and around and eventually it goes into the canister, overflow, or a fish eats it.

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 08:16 PM

If the sumps return is to high then the equipment cant work as well.The return flow should be for the sumps benifit and not the main tanks. The return pump and the canister may help but i wouldnt factor it in. I am going by the 2 main powerheads used for water flow and 2 K4's in a 100 isnt enough and like i said its effects will take time to show. In a new tank with low stock may get by with this but in a mature tank with alot of stock then it becomes more important.
With LPS and SPS flow is more important then lighting.

Aquarist007 · 03/19/2008, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by demonsp
Your lacking flow i would add 2 more k4's. Look here ( http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature/view )
Then the blenny could nip at the poylps.
If you dont have water test kits then i would start there first.

excellent article lance

could use your input on this thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1349443

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 08:27 PM

Lots os questions.Look here and any qeustions after start a new thread.GL.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/newbie/index.php

RyanMcLaughlin · 03/19/2008, 08:28 PM

Ok well I will work on my flow and look into more powerheads but what lps coral would you suggest I start out wth.

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 08:34 PM

A hammer head would be good.

stingythingy45 · 03/19/2008, 08:42 PM

I would say frogspawn is a good choice.
And BTW,you have plenty of flow for LPS.
Just get rid of the canister filter.It has no place in a reef tank,only for FO or FOWLR.

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 08:59 PM

Flow more important then lighting for SPS and 2 K4's in a 100 wont cut it. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature/view

Quote:

Originally posted by stingythingy45
I would say frogspawn is a good choice.
And BTW,you have plenty of flow for LPS.
Just get rid of the canister filter.It has no place in a reef tank,only for FO or FOWLR.

demonsp · 03/19/2008, 09:00 PM

Acropora spp. need strong, turbulent water for effective feeding, good health and to prevent sediment damage. Place these corals in the highest area of water flow in the tank.

http://www.asira.org/caresheets

03/19/2008, 04:47 PM	#1
RyanMcLaughlin Moved On Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Anaheim Posts: 982	LPS Coral Help I am planning on only having LPS and clams in my tank and was wondering what to start out with. I am thinking of like Brain corals, doughnuts, trumpets, Bubble Coral, etc. Any advice would be appreciated.

03/19/2008, 05:25 PM	#2
ahullsb Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: sacramento, ca Posts: 2,729	Those all sound like good additions. What kind of lighting do you have? __________________ Andy Sacramento, CA Current Tank Info: 55 gallon reef w/20 gallon sump/ER135/ 75 pounds of live rock, 4 in sandbed, 2 b&w ocellaris clowns, yellow watchman/pistol, rosy scaled wrasse, Mystery wrasse, Copperbanded Butterfly, Lighting 48" outer orbit 2 150 mh/ 4 t5 actinics

03/19/2008, 05:30 PM	#3
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	lighting and flow are two important factors in raising corals. You should have a flow of between 20-40 times your tank vol in gph but should also create low flow areas for some lps corals bubble coral can be a little tricky for new reefers leathers, mushrooms and zooanthids are really forgiving corals and good starter corals __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

03/19/2008, 08:42 PM	#14
stingythingy45 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: MA Posts: 3,296	I would say frogspawn is a good choice. And BTW,you have plenty of flow for LPS. Just get rid of the canister filter.It has no place in a reef tank,only for FO or FOWLR. __________________ Bob Current Tank Info: 90 gallon,mixed Reef,2-250 watt Optix 3 pendants(Phoenix 14K)2-54 watt T5 Super actnics ,ASM G-2 Gate/recirc mods,70 gal. basement sump,20L ref

03/19/2008, 05:48 PM	#4
RyanMcLaughlin Moved On Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Anaheim Posts: 982	I have dual 250 watt metal halides, two koralia 4's, an 800gph return pump and like 300gph from my canister so a little over 30x per hour. Which would you reccommend I should start with. I have read that leathers and zoos are good but I dont want to get a begginer coral just for that reason because I dont like the look of zoos or mushrooms on a rock. I want really bright colors and most leathers seem to have a dull color to them.

03/19/2008, 06:51 PM	#5
demonsp Moved On Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: el paso tx Posts: 7,634	Your lacking flow i would add 2 more k4's. Look here ( http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature/view ) Then the blenny could nip at the poylps. If you dont have water test kits then i would start there first.

03/19/2008, 07:09 PM	#6
RyanMcLaughlin Moved On Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Anaheim Posts: 982	How am I lacking flow. All that is putting out over 3000gph. I am getting tests this weekend.

03/19/2008, 07:21 PM	#7
demonsp Moved On Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: el paso tx Posts: 7,634	Canisters are more trouble then there worth and the flow rate is at the pump and then the farther away from the return it is the lower this amount drops. Same with return pump from sump and then if you have more then one return from the sump then the flow is even smaller. The return from the sump may help some but i wouldnt factor in its use for prop tank flow. I like to say ,whene you feed add extra frozen food and whatch how it floats.It should stay suspended and not drop or free float.Any area that it doenst stay suspended it where uneatin food , fish waste and other debris will collect and over time will cause nitrate and algea problems that water changes alone wont fix.By then you dont think it from flow cause it seemed to work up till then so you go out and buy some reactor or start adding additives and still cant control it leading to more frustration. Placement also just as important as amount as with LR palcement. When you have problems that you cant control just remember this thread. Then theres the O2 exchange that will be low with low flow. You need good constant flow for a happy healthy tank.

03/19/2008, 08:09 PM	#8
RyanMcLaughlin Moved On Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Anaheim Posts: 982	Well adding more flow doesnt seem good for the tank because my pump is rated at 1000gph at 4ft. head loss and it only has 3.5ft. But I said 800 cuz some water is diverted back into the sump and because adding the koralias has already flattened parts of my sand bed so adding more flow might cause a sand storm. And the canister all I run is carbon in it so I dont think it loses to much flow. It only has like 3 ft. headloss. Also I do watch my food and I havent seen it settle anywhere. It goes to the bottom and when it is about to touch a flow will sweep it up and around and eventually it goes into the canister, overflow, or a fish eats it.

03/19/2008, 08:16 PM	#9
demonsp Moved On Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: el paso tx Posts: 7,634	If the sumps return is to high then the equipment cant work as well.The return flow should be for the sumps benifit and not the main tanks. The return pump and the canister may help but i wouldnt factor it in. I am going by the 2 main powerheads used for water flow and 2 K4's in a 100 isnt enough and like i said its effects will take time to show. In a new tank with low stock may get by with this but in a mature tank with alot of stock then it becomes more important. With LPS and SPS flow is more important then lighting.

03/19/2008, 08:27 PM	#11
demonsp Moved On Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: el paso tx Posts: 7,634	Lots os questions.Look here and any qeustions after start a new thread.GL. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/newbie/index.php

03/19/2008, 08:28 PM	#12
RyanMcLaughlin Moved On Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Anaheim Posts: 982	Ok well I will work on my flow and look into more powerheads but what lps coral would you suggest I start out wth.

03/19/2008, 08:34 PM	#13
demonsp Moved On Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: el paso tx Posts: 7,634	A hammer head would be good.

03/19/2008, 09:00 PM	#16
demonsp Moved On Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: el paso tx Posts: 7,634	Acropora spp. need strong, turbulent water for effective feeding, good health and to prevent sediment damage. Place these corals in the highest area of water flow in the tank. http://www.asira.org/caresheets