New tank build - a couple questions

Aiwass · 04/20/2008, 09:36 AM

I've recently moved to New York and I'm on the brink of setting up a new reef. I'm re-using equipment from previous set-ups, but my goal is to eventually phase my older stuff out. I'm going to take full advantage of the opportunity to do everything right from the start with this tank, and once the system has fully matured I plan on keeping sps corals. I intend to do a biotope display...indonesian patch reef being my inclination.

I've decided on a 65 gallon AGA display with a 29 gallon sump. This is about the largest display my wife will agree too at the moment. I've ordered the tank reef-ready and it arrives this coming Friday. Here's what I've been mulling over:

I initially wanted to use a multi-controller like the Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper line, but I've made the decision to keep my heater/pump/lighting controllers seperate for redundancy. I just can't feel comfortable having all my eggs in one basket. That said, does anyone have a good recommendation for a simple, reliable temperature controller with a remote probe? Everything I've seen on the web either has more than what I want or seems cheaply constructed.

Secondly, can anyone tell me what size the 2 bulkheads are in an AGA 65? I can't seem to find that info online and I want to start getting my plumbing ready before the tank arrives. I only plan on using the larger (approx. 1'') for the drain, so I'm unsure about what to to do with the other ~3/4" hole. It's intended to be used for the return line, but I'm going to use a 1" SCWD and I don't see plumbing that in the overflow being practical...not to mention the nightmare maintenance would be. I'll probably just put a cap on the bulkhead but that seems like a waste.

My tank has a plastic center brace running front-to-back on the top, that's approx 1 1/2" wide. This bothers me because I was planning on mounting a single 250watt MH there, and the brace will block a fair amount of direct light to the tank. My lfs guys told me to cut that plastic piece out, and showed me several tanks they modified that way which have been running fine for years. Other than obviously voiding my warranty, does anyone think that this is a bad idea? I'm not totally comfortable with removing part of my tank, but I wiggled one on a full tank at the store,and it doesn't seem to be load-bearing.

Any input on my choice of lighting? I will supplement the 250watt MH with some actinics (probably 2 96watt PCs because I already have them). The tank is 24" deep and I was hoping to keep a clam or two on the bottom. I figured 150watts wouldn't penetrate this depth, but I think 400watts might be overkill. I considered installing 2 MHs, which would eliminate the brace problem above, but my inclination is that 1 more powerful light will give me more PAR at 20" deep than 2 150watt MHs. I'd really like some input from people who have experience with this.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to look over this. I want to avoid wishing I had done anything differently after my tank has been running for a year. I've had that feeling too many times before.

Colin

chrismunn · 04/20/2008, 10:07 AM

have you seen a ranco temurature controller? thats what alot of people use on thier chillers.

i actually bought a standpipe kit with my AGA 75g and the bulkheads are 3/4"return and 1" drain. im sure its probably the same on all AGA tanks since AGA also sells the univeral standpipe kit.

why dont you go with 2- 250w halides? ide even prefer to have 2- 150w halides over a single 250w simply because i can cover more area in the tank with 2 bulbs.

chrismunn · 04/20/2008, 10:09 AM

oh yeah, and no... i wouldnt cut out the center brace. you could probably do it and it might be fine? but i wouldnt. you should just get 2 lights.

and if you do cut it out, it might be a good idea to silicone a glass strip in its place so that your not actually losing 100% of the support there. and the glass strip support will allow for light penetration.

Aiwass · 04/20/2008, 03:59 PM

I don't think adding a brace w/ silicone would be load bearing. I'll check out the Ranco controller, though. Thanks for your advice.

cashman95 · 04/20/2008, 04:36 PM

I called All Glass a couple of years ago, and asked if I could cut the center brace on my old tank. The tech's said that that would be ok to do, and that the center brace is only there to hold glass lids?!?!?!?

Maybe give the tank manufactor a call and ask their tech depart?

cashman95 · 04/20/2008, 04:37 PM

I also like the ranco temp controller. If you do a google search, you can find them a lot cheaper ythan the online fish sites sell them for!

Bruno3047 · 04/20/2008, 04:49 PM

Do NOT remove the center brace under ANY circumstances.

If you do, the front glass will bow out when the take is full.

04/20/2008, 09:36 AM	#1
Aiwass Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Posts: 17	New tank build - a couple questions I've recently moved to New York and I'm on the brink of setting up a new reef. I'm re-using equipment from previous set-ups, but my goal is to eventually phase my older stuff out. I'm going to take full advantage of the opportunity to do everything right from the start with this tank, and once the system has fully matured I plan on keeping sps corals. I intend to do a biotope display...indonesian patch reef being my inclination. I've decided on a 65 gallon AGA display with a 29 gallon sump. This is about the largest display my wife will agree too at the moment. I've ordered the tank reef-ready and it arrives this coming Friday. Here's what I've been mulling over: I initially wanted to use a multi-controller like the Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper line, but I've made the decision to keep my heater/pump/lighting controllers seperate for redundancy. I just can't feel comfortable having all my eggs in one basket. That said, does anyone have a good recommendation for a simple, reliable temperature controller with a remote probe? Everything I've seen on the web either has more than what I want or seems cheaply constructed. Secondly, can anyone tell me what size the 2 bulkheads are in an AGA 65? I can't seem to find that info online and I want to start getting my plumbing ready before the tank arrives. I only plan on using the larger (approx. 1'') for the drain, so I'm unsure about what to to do with the other ~3/4" hole. It's intended to be used for the return line, but I'm going to use a 1" SCWD and I don't see plumbing that in the overflow being practical...not to mention the nightmare maintenance would be. I'll probably just put a cap on the bulkhead but that seems like a waste. My tank has a plastic center brace running front-to-back on the top, that's approx 1 1/2" wide. This bothers me because I was planning on mounting a single 250watt MH there, and the brace will block a fair amount of direct light to the tank. My lfs guys told me to cut that plastic piece out, and showed me several tanks they modified that way which have been running fine for years. Other than obviously voiding my warranty, does anyone think that this is a bad idea? I'm not totally comfortable with removing part of my tank, but I wiggled one on a full tank at the store,and it doesn't seem to be load-bearing. Any input on my choice of lighting? I will supplement the 250watt MH with some actinics (probably 2 96watt PCs because I already have them). The tank is 24" deep and I was hoping to keep a clam or two on the bottom. I figured 150watts wouldn't penetrate this depth, but I think 400watts might be overkill. I considered installing 2 MHs, which would eliminate the brace problem above, but my inclination is that 1 more powerful light will give me more PAR at 20" deep than 2 150watt MHs. I'd really like some input from people who have experience with this. Thanks in advance for taking the time to look over this. I want to avoid wishing I had done anything differently after my tank has been running for a year. I've had that feeling too many times before. Colin

04/20/2008, 10:07 AM	#2
chrismunn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 4,200	have you seen a ranco temurature controller? thats what alot of people use on thier chillers. i actually bought a standpipe kit with my AGA 75g and the bulkheads are 3/4"return and 1" drain. im sure its probably the same on all AGA tanks since AGA also sells the univeral standpipe kit. why dont you go with 2- 250w halides? ide even prefer to have 2- 150w halides over a single 250w simply because i can cover more area in the tank with 2 bulbs. __________________ Marine Aquarists Association of South Texas Austin Reef Club PBITAWA... Current Tank Info: 14g bio cube

04/20/2008, 10:09 AM	#3
chrismunn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 4,200	oh yeah, and no... i wouldnt cut out the center brace. you could probably do it and it might be fine? but i wouldnt. you should just get 2 lights. and if you do cut it out, it might be a good idea to silicone a glass strip in its place so that your not actually losing 100% of the support there. and the glass strip support will allow for light penetration. __________________ Marine Aquarists Association of South Texas Austin Reef Club PBITAWA... Current Tank Info: 14g bio cube

04/20/2008, 04:36 PM	#5
cashman95 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Greenville, S.C. Posts: 810	I called All Glass a couple of years ago, and asked if I could cut the center brace on my old tank. The tech's said that that would be ok to do, and that the center brace is only there to hold glass lids?!?!?!? Maybe give the tank manufactor a call and ask their tech depart? __________________ SPS Tank with sump in the garage, 400watt Radium/Lumatek ballast,ReefKeeper2 controlling it all!! VHO actinics in the works! Current Tank Info: 24x24x20 Rimless Cube

04/20/2008, 04:37 PM	#6
cashman95 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Greenville, S.C. Posts: 810	I also like the ranco temp controller. If you do a google search, you can find them a lot cheaper ythan the online fish sites sell them for! __________________ SPS Tank with sump in the garage, 400watt Radium/Lumatek ballast,ReefKeeper2 controlling it all!! VHO actinics in the works! Current Tank Info: 24x24x20 Rimless Cube

04/20/2008, 03:59 PM	#4
Aiwass Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Posts: 17	I don't think adding a brace w/ silicone would be load bearing. I'll check out the Ranco controller, though. Thanks for your advice.

04/20/2008, 04:49 PM	#7
Bruno3047 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,018	Do NOT remove the center brace under ANY circumstances. If you do, the front glass will bow out when the take is full.