Cordless or Corded drill for drilling glass?

[huntinweim]

Alright I have read quite a few of the threads about drilling and think I have my method down...

But what type of drill are you guys using? I have a couple corded drills but speed control is impossible. I also have a 14.4V cordless that has high low, has a clutch and all kinds of speed settings.

Any tips on keeping the drill straight, etc???

[itZme]

I use a ryobi 18v cordless and set it on the high setting but then barely squeeze the trigger so I would somewhere guess around 600rpm is where I drill. the ryobi has a bubble level on the top and back so you can tell if you are going straight but I tend to work one side then the other as the hole saw does the cutting. It starts to really squeal if I go straight in for too long and slowing down doesn't seem to help at that point so I shift it to the side and then back again.

If you haven't seen any of the DIY videos go to Youtube and search for "drilling glass". There is a lot to be said for seeing it done before doing it yourself.

Good luck!
-- Kevin

[Veni vidi vici]

Cordless worked great for me.Also something else that might help you is to make a template/jig out of plywood with cleats that will hook over the edge of tank.It will help reduce the chance of the diamond bit from walking.

[xJake]

Either is fine for drilling. As for keeping the drill straight, start your hole at an angle in order to make a small groove in one side. Then go in straight from the top using the groove as a holding place to keep the drill from slipping.

[mflamb]

Here's a plywood jig that I used for drilling my 125 sump. I drew a circle around the bit, and cut out a square, so I could run water into the cutting area and see what was going on.

[eep013]

I've used a few different cordless drills. Never had any trouble with any of them. I also start at an angle (like xJake suggested) and gradually level the drill bit out.

[MCary]

Any drill will work, you want a variable speed. You need to go slow. The glass is being ground not cut. Faster speeds do not go any faster they only heat the glass. I use a portable drill guide for keeping the drill still. They look like this: http://www.woodcraft.com/Family.aspx...FQi1IgodY3X6tQ but can be gotten at Home Depot cheaper. Mflamb jig looks like a good option also.

[itZme]

When using a cheapo holesaw you will do better to not have the drill mounted firmly. The first one I had would rock back and forth a bit as it rotated. I would let the drill move gently back and forth as the holesaw stayed flush with the glass.
I think the more expensive holesaws might be a bit more precision-built and not rock around as much but I am cheap so I go with the $10 holesaws from Hong Kong.

[GaryR1984]

Lean it a little bit to start the groove as mentioned above.

I used a corded B&D. However I did just buy a 9.6 volt for small household chores, which is what i will also use to drill my 125 this week as well as my 20L's.

[Giga]

I use a cheapie for Lowes and set it on very very low torque. The reason being is the if you lean when its half way or deeper the bit can get stuck and you would rather have the clutch slip then the dimond drill keep going and crack the glass.-learned that the hard way

[bundybear1981]

I use my corded drill (GME brand, cheapie) turn it to the slowest speed and let the drill do the work, no force applied... I used a tungsten glass bit and drilled my overflow hole (while the tank was full of water and stocked) with no issues. I just lowered the water to 1/4" below the hole I was drilling so it didnt spill water everywhere.