PH issues, should I be worried?

[natas]

My tank right now is ranging in PH from 7.8 - 8.15 (max). A normal day at peak ph will be 8.10 on avg and 7.85 as the low.

Current KH is at 12 and alk around 4.3. Calcium is at 500. These are the results from my Salifert tests. The PH is measured with a PH probe on my Aqua Controller. To me these numbers seem a little low, should I be worried?

Right now I do 2 part B-Ionic at night time. What do I need to do to raise the PH?

I change 20% weekly, the tank is around 3 months old.

[natas]

I just ran another test using a cheap PH test kit I had laying around and its showing around 7.8 to 8.0 right now. My ACIII says 7.90 so I think that the numbers are right.

[stingythingy45]

Don't chase PH around with buffers,it will only get you in trouble.
Try airating the water some.
Do you have a skimmer?
What size tank are we talking about?
Do you have a tight fitting top?
Raised CO2 levels in the house can lower PH.Sometimes simply opening a window to let fresh air in helps.

[Playa-1]

Your ph is normal, don't worry about it. Good aeration will likely bring the ph up a bit. It looks like your Calcium and Alk are on the high side. All this information is in the chemistry forum sticky threads.
Give these links a read:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...e2002/chem.htm
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

[natas]

The tank has no top and I do have a sump.

I do have a skimmer. I don't have raised co2 levels in the house, in fact the house is older (25+ years) so it's not the most insulated house around

My tank temps are high, ranging from 80-83

[sassafrass]

If the fluctuations concern you ,you could try running a refugium on a reverse lighting schedule .
Lee

[stingythingy45]

"My tank temps are high, ranging from 80-83"

Warm water has less disolved oxygen levels.

[natas]

Originally posted by stingythingy45
"My tank temps are high, ranging from 80-83"

Warm water has less disolved oxygen levels.

So does that mean a lower PH and the possible cause of my problem?

[pledosophy]

Your pH isn't bad IMO.

Increasing 02 will increase pH IME, you might see some alk fluctuations so keep an eye out for them. I just used increase surface aggitation.

I have lived an an older home and had CO2 problems myself, house was from the 40's.
JME
HTH

[IslandCrow]

Warmer water has less dissolved oxygen, but PH is affected by CO2 levels, not O2. Your temperature really isn't that bad. I don't start getting concerned until my temps are above 84 degrees. And as stated, your PH may be on the low side, but it's fine as well. You really don't have any cause for concern.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I discuss pH many places, but here is a good place to start:

The "How To" Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 3: pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php

from it:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php#3

What is the Acceptable pH Range for Reef Aquaria?



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The acceptable pH range for reef aquaria is an opinion, rather than a clearly defined fact, and certainly varies based on who is providing the opinion. This range also may be quite different from the "optimal" range. Justifying what is optimal, however, is much more problematic than justifying what is simply acceptable. I suggest that the pH of natural seawater, about 8.2, is an appropriate goal, but reef aquaria can clearly operate in a wide range of pH values with varying degrees of success. The pH of highly successful coral reef aquaria often deviates substantially from pH 8.2 for at least part of the day. In my opinion, the pH range from 7.8 to 8.5 is a acceptable for reef aquaria, with several caveats. These are:

That the alkalinity is at least 2.5 meq/L (7 dKH) and preferably higher at the lower end of this pH range. This statement is based partly on the fact that many reef aquaria operate acceptably in the pH 7.8 to 8.0 range, but many of the best examples of these types of aquaria incorporate calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors which, while tending to lower the pH, also tend to keep the carbonate alkalinity fairly high (at or above 3 meq/L.). In this case, any problems associated with calcification at these lower pH values may be offset by the higher alkalinity. Low pH stresses calcifying organisms primarily by making it harder for them to obtain sufficient carbonate to deposit skeletons. Raising the alkalinity may mitigate this difficulty by supplying extra bicarbonate to them.
That the calcium level is at least 400 ppm. Calcification becomes more difficult as the pH falls, and it also becomes more difficult as the calcium level falls. It would not be desirable to push all of the extremes of pH, alkalinity and calcium at the same time. So if the pH is on the low side and cannot be easily changed (such as in an aquarium with a CaCO3/CO2 reactor), at least make sure that the calcium level is acceptable (~400-450 ppm). Likewise, one of the problems at higher pH (above, say, 8.2, but becoming progressively more problematic with each incremental rise) is the abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate, resulting in a drop in calcium and alkalinity, and the resultant clogging of heaters and pump impellers. If the aquarium's pH is 8.4 or higher (as often happens in an aquarium using limewater), then it is especially important that both the calcium and alkalinity levels be suitably maintained (that is, neither too low, inhibiting biological calcification, nor too high, causing excessive abiotic precipitation on equipment).