Sandfilter

[tcdk]

Hi

At my work we have a little problem with Phosphate (Po4).

We have about 6000L (1585 Gallons ) and have treated the problems with RowaPhos.
We now want some more permanent.
We got 3 huge Sandfilters laying around, and was thinking if this would be the best option to install?


This is about how they look:


We was thinking in setting 2 of them on our 6000L system, and another one on our 2500L system.
The flow was considered to be ~ 4000L/H on each filter.

What sand would suit best? And would it be vice to use some "Caribien Sea live sand" to start the bacterial culture?


Hope someone can help, as I absolute have no experience with Sandfilters.

[tcdk]

Anyone?

[yeniraki]

If I did not get wrong you are planing this sand filter to remove phosphates. Deep sand bad (DSB) utilize sand to remove PO4 but it works completely different than what you are planning to do.
From your drawings, and that thing filled with sand and 4000l/h through it, will be a nice PO4 and nitrate factory.
If you will be able to get 4000l/h through it you should have a very clear water however, no planctons or whatsoever with plenty of PO4 and nitrate.

[crvz]

I'm not sure I understand how this works or what it's supposed to do. Are you to put these under the sand bed, or put sand in them? I'm not familiar with the technology.

[tcdk]

Well it's just a larger model of eg. Deltec FR 1020
http://www.deltecusa.us/fluidizedreactors/fr1020.php

The reactpr will be filled with sand, and water will be pumped through the sand

[tcdk]

Here is a little about sand filters

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_filter

[tcdk]

A fluidized filter for sand

http://www.nlucent.com/images/rl_sand.jpg

[tcdk]

Why a Lifegard fluidized bed filter?

Due to its unique shape, the Lifegard Fluidized Bed Filter is an extremely efficient, high capacity biological filter. Aquatic organisms excrete toxic ammonia as a metabolic waste product..with additional ammonia produced as food and other organic matter breaks down and decomposes. This toxic ammonia (NH3) is converted to another toxic compound called nitrite (NO2) by the Nitrosomonas species of bacteria. The nitrite is then converted to a relatively non toxic compound called nitrate (NO3) by the Nitrobacter species of bacteria. This process is known as nitrification.

A biological filter is a vessel where nitrification occurs and soluble waste is removed. Beneficial bacteria attach to the media within the Lifegard Fluidized Bed Filter, creating a thin film around the sand grains. Water is pumped up through the unit, lifting the sand into a fluidized bed. The beneficial bacteria attached to the media utilized dissolved wastes (ammonia and nitrite), oxygen supplied by Rainbow's exclusive water fall device, and other required nutrients from the passing water converting them to relatively harmless nitrate. The sand grains are in continual free fall through the water resulting in an excellent transfer capability between the water and the bacterial film on the media. The enormously high surface area combined with this excellent transfer capability creates the perfect habitat for bacterial growth. In addition, the sand grains bump into each other frequently which knock off excess debris and provides a self cleaning function allowing new areas for bacterial growth.

The Lifegard Fluidized Bed Filter has been tested and proven to supply the highest level of effluent water quality and will respond quickly and efficiently to severe changes in ammonia levels caused by over feeding or the addition of too many fish at one time.

To obtain highest water quality, a Lifegard Fluidized Bed Filter should be part of the system.

[wattsupdoc]

I don't think you have a complete understanding of phosphates. Using a fluidized filter with sand will do nothing to lower you phosphates. Using it with a phosphate reducing media such as rowaphos, phosban, etc. will. Actually I always recommend a 2 part approach for lowering phosphates. Using 2 different products. These can be used in any phosphate reactor(or fluidized bed reactor). Be sure that you use these exactly as the directions state. Any conflict with what I state here, go by the directions, it's been some time since I've done this myself.

First use a product from Seachem called Phosgaurd. Run this for 5 days as directed and then remove, replace with new and run it again for 5 days. Phosgaurd is great for rapidly removing phosphates and silicates in your system, but should not be ran long term. This will help to get the phosphates down quickly to a manageable level. After the second application, remove the phosgaurd and replace with a long term phosphate removal media such as Rowaphos or phosban. These are both good phosphate removing media and can be left in the system long term.

Now after this is complete you still need to do some things to help prevent phosphates from entering the aquarium. Be sure to try to eliminate them wherevr you can. Realize that phosphates are in everything organic.

[tcdk]

Is there any long termed solution other that eg. Rowaphos?

[calkulon]

Well, there are less expensive brands of granular ferric oxide available, or you could use a liquid po4 remover. You could set up a sump and grow macroalgea and the harvest the macroalgea as it grows. Also a carbon source such as vodka or vinegar could be used to fuel a bacterial bloom that will help to reduce po4. A highly efficient protein skimmer can help to reduce po4 levels. Being very careful with how much and what is feed to the tank will help to control po4. Some of each of the methods listed is the best solution. Research and learn about each method and then decide what may work best for you.