In-Wall tanks, sealing back-side drywall?

XSiVE · 08/17/2008, 08:46 PM

OK so I really don't want to tear out a sheet of drywall and put up green board.. mainly because the color of the wall is a dark green and I suck at drywall joints, the dark color will show the joint/repair like a sore thumb.

So what I'd like to know, is does anyone know of a good way to keep the back side of the drywall from absorbing much (or none) of the moisture in the air that will surely be floating around the top of the display tank?

I did some searching around and the best "water resistant" wall covering i found was more like mildew resistant paint.. I dont think that will do the job.

I was thinking some sort of urethane brushed on, maybe? Or just plastic like garbage bags kinda hung over stuff?

Any other insight on how some of you have done it would be wonderful.

sabalough · 08/17/2008, 09:18 PM

I have drywall in 3 sides if my tank. It is built into the wall with the two long sides viewable. I did it so that there is room for airflow on one side of the tank between the underside of the stand and the top. I placed two vents under the stand and the top is open on one side at the celing (could be closed up and have vents installed) This uses the heat generated by the lights to create a air movement helping with water cooling and removing moist air. the inside surfaces (back side of the drywall)were painted with semigloss white paint.

I use 400w halides that produce a lot of heat and my tank peaks at 82f in the summer with the house ac at 78f.

I think if t-5's were used for lighting a fan should be used to insure enough air flow to minimize moisture.

XSiVE · 08/18/2008, 07:36 AM

an interesting thought..

any more insight for water resistance on in-wall setups?

mille239 · 08/18/2008, 08:51 AM

I used Killz primer/sealant on all the exposed drywall/stand, everything underneath and around the tank. Someone else recommended it to me. I'm still in the build stage so I don't have water yet, but you can see some pics in my thread.

Waterford isn't too far from me!

billdogg · 08/18/2008, 09:13 AM

i found thin plastic in 4x8 size at HD next to the paneling. I used 2 sheets with the top sheet overlapping the bottom with a bead of silicone between and just used drywall screws to fasten it to the wall. you could hit it with a firehose and the drywall behind would stay dry.should you move in the future it can be taken down - all you have to do then is spackle the screw holes.

XSiVE · 08/18/2008, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mille239
I used Killz primer/sealant on all the exposed drywall/stand, everything underneath and around the tank. Someone else recommended it to me. I'm still in the build stage so I don't have water yet, but you can see some pics in my thread.

Waterford isn't too far from me!

hah! yeah I remember your build thread because I was asking you specifics on the strength of your stand.. I will definitely do like you did and coat everything with whatever I end up choosing.

Someone else recommended Zinsser's Perma-Guard and it sounds promising.. I will have to see the price on it though

Bruno3047 · 08/18/2008, 11:17 AM

Shellac. Dries fast and forms a true vapor barrier. Also works as an excellent primer for either latex or oil-base paints.

dcmander · 08/18/2008, 12:54 PM

when i built a shower niche (for shampoo/conditioner) I used a product called RED GUARD...which is a waterproofing agent you paint on like paint...it goes on red and dries pink and is totally waterproof. you could use that...it is kinda pricey though (i think $45 or so) and they only sell it by the gallon. You can get it at home depot in the tile section.

might be overkill though.

wmilas · 08/18/2008, 01:06 PM

Even if you use greenboard it still needs to be sealed.

One of the best ways is to put 1 or 2 coats of Kilz, or another oil based primer. Then buy 2 part epoxy paint. It comes in 2 gallon (or 5 gallon depending on the size) containers. You mix them, they activate and you have a set amount of time before the stuff hardens into a rock-like substance to paint it on the walls. This combination will repel damn near anything you can throw at it.

The downside is the insanely high VOC content that are in these products. Make sure you have VERY good ventilation, and I would not have a live tank any where near the area you are painting. The fumes are so bad that when I did my fishroom the stuff damn near burned the hairs out of my nose.

I'm 100% waterproof now. I can take the hose and spray salt off the walls and not worry one bit about seepage.

08/17/2008, 08:46 PM	#1
XSiVE Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Waterford, MI Posts: 790	In-Wall tanks, sealing back-side drywall? OK so I really don't want to tear out a sheet of drywall and put up green board.. mainly because the color of the wall is a dark green and I suck at drywall joints, the dark color will show the joint/repair like a sore thumb. So what I'd like to know, is does anyone know of a good way to keep the back side of the drywall from absorbing much (or none) of the moisture in the air that will surely be floating around the top of the display tank? I did some searching around and the best "water resistant" wall covering i found was more like mildew resistant paint.. I dont think that will do the job. I was thinking some sort of urethane brushed on, maybe? Or just plastic like garbage bags kinda hung over stuff? Any other insight on how some of you have done it would be wonderful.

08/17/2008, 09:18 PM	#2
sabalough Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: near canton ohio Posts: 583	I have drywall in 3 sides if my tank. It is built into the wall with the two long sides viewable. I did it so that there is room for airflow on one side of the tank between the underside of the stand and the top. I placed two vents under the stand and the top is open on one side at the celing (could be closed up and have vents installed) This uses the heat generated by the lights to create a air movement helping with water cooling and removing moist air. the inside surfaces (back side of the drywall)were painted with semigloss white paint. I use 400w halides that produce a lot of heat and my tank peaks at 82f in the summer with the house ac at 78f. I think if t-5's were used for lighting a fan should be used to insure enough air flow to minimize moisture. __________________ diy it if you can Current Tank Info: mixed reef/70 thru-wall /basement sump

08/18/2008, 08:51 AM	#4
mille239 Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Harrison Twp., MI Posts: 1,644	I used Killz primer/sealant on all the exposed drywall/stand, everything underneath and around the tank. Someone else recommended it to me. I'm still in the build stage so I don't have water yet, but you can see some pics in my thread. Waterford isn't too far from me! __________________ -Blair Disclaimer: No trees were harmed in the creation of this post, though a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced. Current Tank Info: 120 SPS reef in progress, 120 mixed reef, currently being completely rebuilt)

08/18/2008, 09:13 AM	#5
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	i found thin plastic in 4x8 size at HD next to the paneling. I used 2 sheets with the top sheet overlapping the bottom with a bead of silicone between and just used drywall screws to fasten it to the wall. you could hit it with a firehose and the drywall behind would stay dry.should you move in the future it can be taken down - all you have to do then is spackle the screw holes. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

08/18/2008, 12:54 PM	#8
dcmander Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 140	when i built a shower niche (for shampoo/conditioner) I used a product called RED GUARD...which is a waterproofing agent you paint on like paint...it goes on red and dries pink and is totally waterproof. you could use that...it is kinda pricey though (i think $45 or so) and they only sell it by the gallon. You can get it at home depot in the tile section. might be overkill though. __________________ 55g - 150lbs Fiji Live Rock, 90lbs Live Sand 1 Purple Tang 1 Yellow Coris Wrasse 2 Percula Clows 1 Tiger Pistol Shrimp 1 Coral Banded Shrimp 1 Purple Urchin WTB: Rimless Tank setup

08/18/2008, 07:36 AM	#3
XSiVE Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Waterford, MI Posts: 790	an interesting thought.. any more insight for water resistance on in-wall setups?

08/18/2008, 11:17 AM	#7
Bruno3047 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,018	Shellac. Dries fast and forms a true vapor barrier. Also works as an excellent primer for either latex or oil-base paints.

08/18/2008, 01:06 PM	#9
wmilas Keep magnets 9" apart! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Lemont, Il Posts: 1,023	Even if you use greenboard it still needs to be sealed. One of the best ways is to put 1 or 2 coats of Kilz, or another oil based primer. Then buy 2 part epoxy paint. It comes in 2 gallon (or 5 gallon depending on the size) containers. You mix them, they activate and you have a set amount of time before the stuff hardens into a rock-like substance to paint it on the walls. This combination will repel damn near anything you can throw at it. The downside is the insanely high VOC content that are in these products. Make sure you have VERY good ventilation, and I would not have a live tank any where near the area you are painting. The fumes are so bad that when I did my fishroom the stuff damn near burned the hairs out of my nose. I'm 100% waterproof now. I can take the hose and spray salt off the walls and not worry one bit about seepage. __________________ 120x36x30 acrylic display, 1000 gallon sps with lots o fish