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10/12/2008, 07:14 PM | #1 |
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questions on coraline algae growth
This is dosing on my 12 gallon aquapod:
I have been using reef crystals for months. I have no corals. I have been holding off due to low levels of calc and mag. 1. I have been dosing kent marine nano part A calcium and got it up to 440 yesterday. (testing with seachem...I have API but they are too messy IMO). Should I keep dosing? It states 3ml a day but I do 2. Mag this afternoon was 1100 and just tested and it went to 1125 after adding about 45ml of kent tech M. This was also tested with seachem. This seems like an awful lot of mag added to the tank with hardly any increase. The product states it will raise mag 18.3ppm per 1ml. Well if this is the case then either the test kit is faulty or I am. 3. Alk yesterday was 8 when I tested with the API test kit. With the seachem it was 3! I am going with the API because there is no way it is this low...right? 4. I feel that with the weekly water changes with reef crystals this should be enough to keep levels in check. Maybe I am trying to hard or there is something I am missing. I tell my wife the first time I see coraline on the glass I will jump for joy. I would rather have a lot of coraline than none. And I promise I will not complain about scraping it off the glass. BTW...I am happy to say that nitrate is 0!!! I tested with salifert on this one. I know a lot of people will tell me to get rid of the seachem test kits and get salifert, which I am considering but $$$ is running out. Any other suggestions? |
10/12/2008, 07:40 PM | #2 |
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I started off with a nano and my tank was covered in coralline within three months using limewater for top-off. Some people have been getting bad batches of Reef Crystals with low calcium and low magnesium. It takes a tremendous amount of magnesium to increase your levels if they are that low. The product probably says it will raise 18.3 ppm per 1 mL per liter of tank water or something like that. 18.3 ppm per mL is meaningless without a reference volume. As a newbie the best thing you can do is read everything you can get your eyes on. Read every article in the archives stickied at the top of this forum.
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10/12/2008, 07:51 PM | #3 |
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It seems to depend on things we don't measure. On my 75 gallon, it took years and all of a sudden, it just took off. My parameters and maintenance never changed. My 20g it happened pretty quickly. Alk, ca and low PO4 seem to be required (and this is all I ever add). Other than that, I'm not sure what the magic ingredient is, maybe just time...
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10/12/2008, 08:31 PM | #4 |
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maybe. My 29 has a little purple on the rocks here and there but I say about 90% of the rock is white and light brown.
I was thinking about using the total two part package from bulkreefsupply Any good reviews on this? |
10/13/2008, 06:42 AM | #5 |
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The two part package from Bulk Reef is a fine way to go.
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Randy Holmes-Farley Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef |
10/13/2008, 08:43 AM | #6 |
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<<< 3. Alk yesterday was 8 when I tested with the API test kit. With the seachem it was 3! I am going with the API because there is no way it is this low...right? >>>
You do know you have to multply the Seachem result by 2.8 to get the dKH, right?
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10/13/2008, 09:11 PM | #7 |
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no i didn't. I guess I will have to read that over again. That would make it 8.4, which is a lot better.
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10/13/2008, 09:21 PM | #8 |
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does it state that in the instructions? Because I do not see that anywhere stated.
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10/14/2008, 04:48 AM | #9 |
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If the unit the kit uses for alkalinity is meq/L, then you multiply by 2.8 if you want the units of alkalinity to be dKH. Like inches vs centimeters, they are just different units of measure.
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Randy Holmes-Farley Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef |
10/14/2008, 07:55 PM | #10 |
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The Seachem alk test kit reads in meq/l. Therefore, if you want to convert to dKH like the API reads then, yes, multiply by 2.8. However, there isn't a need. Meq/l is fine. I shoot for 4 meq/l
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10/14/2008, 07:55 PM | #11 |
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Double post. Sorry
Last edited by NormanB; 10/14/2008 at 08:03 PM. |
10/15/2008, 07:36 AM | #12 |
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I second the Kalk for beefing up coraline produciton...finda good source and mix your own, lots of good literature here at this site for DIY kalk
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10/15/2008, 09:23 AM | #13 |
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If you guy's want or feel the need to scrap purple & green coraline off of glass......Please by all means come on over!!! My arms could use a break. The purple is easy, but the green That stuff is the tuffest stuff around.
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"We may define faith as a firm belief in something for which there is not evidence. We only speak of faith when we wish to substitute emotion for evidence." Current Tank Info: 225g RR 100g sump T5 lighting Octopus DDNw300 GEO Calcium Reactor Dual GFO reactor, now I just need some frags |
10/15/2008, 10:13 PM | #14 |
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Get your Mg levels up, up, up... Like around 1300ppm-1350ppm. And as you noticed, it takes a LOT of Mg additive to get it up. Just keep adding it and testing. When you get it to the right level, it takes much less product to maintain the higher levels. Mg goes down slowly, but again, it takes a lot of additive to raise it initially.
And be patient. Coralline often takes a long time to get started, but then it gets to be like gang-busters, growing EVERYWHERE...!
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My hobby? I glue animals to rocks... Current Tank Info: Rimless Starfire 85g SPS (36" x 26" x 21"): ATI Powermodule 10 x 39W, ATB Small Cone, RK2, Vortech MP40W, 6025 Stream modded, MAG 9.5 return, Balling |
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