Best Heater in the market

[jamirlima]

What is a good heater available in the market? I had 2 Rena 200 watts and one of them broke into 2 pieces inside my refuge and ended up killing couple of fish and the breaker also went off. Also my coral are not very happy.

Would you use 2 200 watts or use one 400 watts?
Thanks

[palawan]

Well you have a choice of the in-line or drop-in type heaters. Jebo,Hydor,Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,AGA are common. The most important item would be a temperature controller like Ranco. I wouldn't trust the built in thermostats that come with any heaters. I rule of thumb is 3-5watts per gallon, and it recommend running two 200watts vs. 1 400watts incase of a failure on one heater. I run 2 250watt AGA heaters(non-breakable glass) on a Ranco dual outlet temp controller. Real stable.

[Paulairduck]

my ranco controller and finnex stainless 500 watter has lasted me over a year

[BeanAnimal]

www.beananimal.com

check out my heater article... it saves me from typing it over and ocer

[Whalehead9]

Bean, i just read your article and I agree with all points, but I would add one more thing. Replace all heaters after two years. I have had seals fail and water leak into and out of heaters. Like you said all this livestock depends on a $25 heater while hundreds of dollars are spent on replacing bulbs when they get to the end of their useful lifespan. The same should be true for Heaters. It sucks to fins out that even a small heater has been corrupted and the copper elements are exposed to the water column.

[BeanAnimal]

That is why I reccomend that the heaters be placed so that they heads are not submerged If the seal it not exposed to water, then it is not a problem if (and when) it fails.

[snorvich]

BeanAnimal, when you said " it saves me from typing it over and ocer " don't you think you are being a bit too subtle?

[BeanAnimal]

I am not sure I follow (honestly).

I wrote the article because the topic comes up almost daily. There is a lot of misinformation and/or lack of basic understanding when it comes to heaters and the dangers they pose to our systems. Most folks simply take them for granted as a basic, uninportant piece in the puzzle whem in fact they are capable if more damage than any other single piece of equipment. Instead of trying to explain the details each time, it is easier to provide a link

[jamirlima]

Would you recommend using Marineland Stealth?

[BeanAnimal]

I don't have specific reccomendations for most heaters. That said, the WON bros titanium heaters have a very poor track record with regard to quality control and heating elements shorting out. The finnex titanium heaters have many similar complaints. I am not sure if they can be attributed to seal failure or bad elements.

If you follow the basic guidlines I posted, then the brand should not matter much.

[dkh0331]

Ranco controller and two finnex titanium heaters for a few years.

[pjf]

Unless you are using a controller, I would use two small heaters instead of one large one. This provides a measure of safety in case one heater fails. You can check the LED indicators on the heaters to see if they agree.

It is hard to beat an Eheim Jager heater. It has an LED indicator and is one of the few heaters that can be field-calibrated. The calibration instructions are here:
http://www.boroniaaquarium.com.au/ne...514e6d836edb6f.

I would not expose the head of a heater to air because that would cool the thermostat and impact its accuracy. When I exposed the head of my Jager heater to air, there was a 5 degree difference between the water temperature and the setting.

If you are using a controller, set your heater’s thermostat a couple of degrees higher than the set point of the controller. In case your controller fails or in case the probe falls out of the tank, the heater’s thermostat will keep your tank from overheating.

I recommend controllers that can be field-calibrated. Electronics drift and the calibration feature allows you to reset the temperature read-out.

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by pjf
Unless you are using a controller, I would use two small heaters instead of one large one. This provides a measure of safety in case one heater fails. You can check the LED indicators on the heaters to see if they agree.

Fully covered in my article, including the math needed to determine what size heaters to use.

It is hard to beat an Eheim Jager heater. It has an LED indicator and is one of the few heaters that can be field-calibrated. The calibration instructions are here:
http://www.boroniaaquarium.com.au/ne...514e6d836edb6f.

All calibration does is match the numbers on the dial to the temperature of the water. You should never rely on the numbers on the heaters dial and should always rely on a thermometer.

I would not expose the head of a heater to air because that would cool the thermostat and impact its accuracy. When I exposed the head of my Jager heater to air, there was a 5 degree difference between the water temperature and the setting.

As I have pointed out in my article and several other threads; It is very common for the head seals to leak and cause heater failure. You are much better off leaving the head dry. So what if the tank temperature does not match the dial, they are not accurate anyway. This is yet one moro reason that a controller is a MUST, not an option.

If you are using a controller, set your heater’s thermostat a couple of degrees higher than the set point of the controller. In case your controller fails or in case the probe falls out of the tank, the heater’s thermostat will keep your tank from overheating.

Also coverd in detail in my article.

I recommend controllers that can be field-calibrated. Electronics drift and the calibration feature allows you to reset the temperature read-out.

back to this again? There is no need to calibrate a Ranco. They are +/- 1 degree F and factory calibrated. They do not exhibit drift problems.


Subtly telling people that Ranco controllers are not reliable is silly, and that is exactly what you are STILL trying to do.

[Paulairduck]

great article, Lots of good info

[Lowman]

thank you for the info, I would have never thought to replace my heater after 2 years, good idea!

[BeanAnimal]

replacing heaters every 2 years does not address the root problem. Submerging the heaters leads to failure. Using the heaters internal thermostats to conrtol temperature leads to failure.

[Lowman]

Right after I read this thread, I raised my heater up so the top was above the surface, thanks for your information.

[matthewscars]

Bean, I do disagree with you in one part of the article.

You state you should NOT place the heater and Ranco (or whatever) probe in different areas of the sump.

My fuge is: Refug (spraybar and cheato only) - > Return < - skimmer

I have the Ranco Heat connected to two 300w heaters in my skimmer section and the temp prob in the refug section.

I have 2 other thermometers (digital, and a floaty) and my tank stays at 78-79. in all chambers. Granted the skimmer might get a few degrees warmer before the probe in the refug notices, but ive not had any issues with this setup

[BeanAnimal]

Matthew,

The article was not intended to cover each and every possible scenario. While each situation can be different, the best advice is to plcae the temperature probe slighty upstream if the heater(s), in the same compartment as the heater(s). Doing so will provide the most accurate and stable tank temperatures.

However, I think you are missing the most important reason for placing the probe and heaters in the same compartment. There are dozens of scenarios when the return pump (or other pump) fails or otherwise prevents to provide flow between the two compartment or tanks. In that case, it is VERY possible for the heater to boil the water in one compartment while the probe sits and cools in the other compartment.

So you may not have had any issues... but the best practice is still to place the probe just upstream of the heater.

[matthewscars]

If the return pump dies, you are screwed in any scenario with the heater in the sump, no?

[pjf]

If the thermostat on your heater is properly calibrated and set a couple of degrees higher than the controller's set point, you should not have a problem if the return pump or the controller dies.

The heater's thermostat should be submerged for accuracy. Otherwise, it will sense the air which may have a different temperature than the water.

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by matthewscars
If the return pump dies, you are screwed in any scenario with the heater in the sump, no?

No, as the aquarium cools, the cold blooded creatures in it slow down. Your livestock can handle much colder temperatures than you would think. An over heated tank is much more of a danger than a cooling tank.

Remember, MANY people turn off their return pumps for feeding. it is very common to neglect to turn them back on.

Again, the advice is "best practice" for those reading the article who don't fully understand the ramifications of placing a heater in the display and the probe in the sump, or visa-versa. The intent was not (and is not) to cover each and every scenario and point out possible points of failure. It was (and is) to help educate poeple about an aspect of the hobby that few people take the time to pay attention to. "Best practice" is just that, "best practice". You me or anybody can come up with scenarios that don't fit every piece of the advice to a tee, but that does not negate the "best practice" advice by any means.

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by pjf
If the thermostat on your heater is properly calibrated and set a couple of degrees higher than the controller's set point, you should not have a problem if the return pump or the controller dies.

Yes, that is the idea if you use a controller and allow the heaters intrinsic thermostats to act as fails-safes. That does not negate the general advice for "best practice".

The heater's thermostat should be submerged for accuracy. Otherwise, it will sense the air which may have a different temperature than the water.

Again, the controller takes care of the control. the thermostats would be set so that they trip at just above the tanks temperature, no matter what the dial says. Furthermore, you are significantly overstating the effects of air (under normal circumstances) on the heater head affecting the function of the heater.

I will kindly state again; Heater failure due to a leaking envelope poses significantly more threat to an aquarium than a heater that is a few degrees off of what the dial says. Sadly, you know that but insist in being contrary. You twist your own advice into knots attempting to be contrary in every heater thread you contribute to. I just don't get it.

[pjf]

Originally posted by BeanAnimal
There is no need to calibrate a Ranco. They are +/- 1 degree F and factory calibrated. They do not exhibit drift problems.

The Ranco only displays to a full degree. Despite its "slop," here's how you can easily measure its drift:
(1) With a lab-grade thermometer, measure the temperature at which its display transitions from one temperature to another. For example, when the Ranco's display changes from 77 to 78 degrees, note the water temperature to the tenth of a degree. This transition temperature should be 78.0 degrees. Note the error if it is not.
(2) Wait a few weeks and perform the same measurement. If the transition occurs at a different temperature, the difference is the drift over that period of time.
(3) Note if the transition from 78 to 77 degrees occurs at a different temperature.

A search will show Ranco controller problems with temperature readings. Here's just one sample:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1339987

[BeanAnimal]

Congratulation PJF, you found a person who had a problem with a Ranco. It is intellectually dishonest for you to use a rare (almost non existent) problem to portray the Ranco as a "sloppy" and inadequate device. Honestly, it is laughable and you know it.

While you are asking people to do searches, shall we ask them to search for username "PJF" and "heater" or "Ranco" and see just how many threads you have done this in? Can we wager that you have contradicted yourself in more threads than there are "ranco problem" threads?

Your posts on this topic have become insufferable Sir. You are doing nothing but attempting to make good advice confusing and portray a high quality commercial/industrial product as inadequate and unsuitable for aquarium use.

Sadly, your motive appears to be driven by nothing more than dislike for me. You have contradicted yourself numerous times and have gone as far as to say that a pair of ebo-jagger heaters are more reliable than a Ranco . (I can find the thread and quote you if needed).

We have no need to measure temperature to a 10th of a degree in this hobby. The primary role of the commercial quality temperature controller is to prevent catastrophic overheating of the aquarium that VERY regularly results from failed thermostatic hobby heaters. You have churned and confused this issue on dozens of threads, many times contradicting your own advice and proven fact, let alone common sense based on sound logic.

The secondary function of the controller is to maintain the tanks temperature within a safe margin and display the current temperature to the operator. There is no need to hold an aquarium to within a 10th of a degree, let alone +/- 1 degree.

Along the path, you may want to note that many of the well respected names in the hobby have gone as far to assert that temperature fluctuations in our systems help to make our livestock more resilient.

We can search each and every post in every thread here at RC and you will find that for every reported Ranco problem, there are dozens (hundreds?, thousands?) of reported heater and "aquarium controller" (Acjr, lighthouse, finnex, won bros, etc. ) problems. When we are done with that we can search every post on the internet and find exactly the same lopsided statistic. Again, the function of the controller is to prevent catastrophic overheating of the tank and keep the water within a safe zone, not a decimal place of a degree.

By eliminating the mechanical cycling of the thermostats that are built into the heaters, they [the heaters] become much more reliable in the extremely RARE event that they are called upon for fail-safe control of the tanks temperature.

You are doing a grave disservice to those who come here looking for sound advice from honest people. Please stop doing this PJF.