Overflow drain pipe question

[gramma royale]

Hey all,

Is it better for the water to have a straight pipe from the overflow right down to the fuge, or for there to be a 90 degree bend and then drop into the fuge.

I'm planning a plumbing system that looks exactly like this diagram here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...umbing+diagram

My first plumbed tank had a straight drop from the overflow to the fuge. This proved to be quite noisy and messy, and I'd rather have a bend like in the diagram above to eliminate some of the splashing. However, will this put undue strain on the plumbing from the overflow? Will it slow down the overflow significantly?

Let me know, thanks!

[Playa-1]

I don't like the diagram. Reducing to the smaller pipe like that is a bad idea IMO. As opposed to having the water drop straight down to a 90 I would install a 45 and put a nice angle on the pipe so the water runs down hill at a 45 degree angle and then another 45 delivers the water to it's destination. I would not restrict the flow at the end by using smaller pipe, instead I would use one size of pipe. The key to silent drains is to keep the flow to a reasonable level and give the air an efficient way to escape from the plumbing.

[gramma royale]

Thanks Playa, 45 degree angle makes sense. BTW, I will have to reduce the pipe into the pump because my bulkhead is 1" while the inlet to the pump is only 3/4". BTW, just in case, I'm talking about the second picture and not the first.

Thanks again!

[Playa-1]

On the Return Pump side in the drawings, It's ok to use the bushings in and out of the return pump. It makes no difference if the bushings are before or after the ball valves.

On the Drain side of the plumbing, it goes from 1.5" to 1.25" for no reason and that is a bad idea. The drain line plumbing should not be reduced in size.

The ball valve on the drain line is not necessary unless it is just for maintenance purposes. It should be fully open when the tank is operating.

I would add Union Couplers on both sides of the return pump to allow for easy pump repair or replacement.

Unless this is a very large DT I would likely go with an internal pump and leave the External pump for the Massive tanks and closed loop systems. The internal pump eliminates potential leaking issues from the additional bulkheads, the pump itself, and union couplers. The less potential nightmares the better.

[gramma royale]

Thanks again Playa!

The used fuge I got has a bulkhead already. But honestly, I wasn't feeling very comfortable using it anyhow, as it make the fuge a tight fit under the stand. I'll probable cap it off and use the Mag drive as an internal pump.

I see what you're saying about the drain pipe. I'll keep it at 1.5" all the way to the fuge. Slap in a 45 degree elbow instead of the 90. I'll keep the ball valve on the drain for maintenance purposes only.

I'll probably remove the ball valve on the pipe leading out of the return pump and put in a gate valve as well.

[Playa-1]

That sounds like a good plan to me