How to connect solid and stranded wires?

swegyptian · 12/07/2008, 04:07 PM

I just wired up my T5 retro kits, and one little thing makes me nervous. It came with wire nuts to connect the pig tail that comes from the ballast, to the AC power cord. How else could I secure them? The AC wire is stranded, but the pig tail from the ballast is solid core. Can I still use a butt connector and crimp it? Or does the wire nut actually have better contact that a butt connector? I though about soldering it, but I wasn't sure if heat would be an issue, or if I could even get solder to stick to a solid core wire. At the least I would like to put some heat shrink tubing around whatever connector I use to protect it, which is difficult with a wire nut. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Alex

mg426 · 12/07/2008, 04:36 PM

Either of the methods you have described should be AOK.

ccrider · 12/07/2008, 05:06 PM

leave the stranded wire a fraction of an inch longer than the solid and twist the wirenut on, wrap with a piece of tape to make it secure

jimnrose · 12/07/2008, 07:23 PM

I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it?
Jim

casualreefer · 12/07/2008, 07:57 PM

i agree with you jim. i used wirenuts and taped em up with electrical tape.

James77 · 12/07/2008, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jimnrose
I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it?
Jim

They make wire nuts designed for outdoor use that have some type of sealant built inside the nut to water/weatherproof them.

atvdave · 12/07/2008, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jimnrose
I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it?
Jim

Yes it would be better. I have in the past put a dab of 100% silicone into the bottom of the wire nut to prevent any salt creep from tracking any current back down the wire and into the tank.

Very good point Jim.

jda · 12/07/2008, 09:16 PM

I just solder and shrink them. I hate corroded wire nut innards.

Krazy302 · 12/07/2008, 09:55 PM

I usually just use wire nuts, like said earlier leave strainded wire alittle longer than solid core and twist away. Then I usually put some liquid electrical tape inside the wire nut just to seal it up..

swegyptian · 12/07/2008, 09:58 PM

jda - You solder the solid core to the stranded? I have never done any soldering with solid core wire, so I don't know how well it would hold. I guess I could wrap them around each other and then solder them, with a final covering of heat shrink.

jda · 12/07/2008, 10:04 PM

I just hold them right next to each other. If you are worried about it sticking, then you could roughen up the solid core wire with some light cuts with some dykes.

If that doesn't work (always has for me), then I would connect them instead of using wire nuts. I have even used a connector and solder a time or two before.

58merc · 12/07/2008, 10:08 PM

Hi, I just so happen to be an Electrician.

Butt splices: A good reliable joint if the right one is used for the wire size and it is crimped properly with the right tool.

Wire nut: Another good joint if done properly and the right size of wire nut is used. Solid to stranded is something I encounter on a daily basis. The key is to be sure that the ends of the wire are even before you put the nut on. Twist it until the wire outside the nut twist together. Allowing the stranded wire to wrap itself around the solid is not the proper way to use a wire nut. If you do this you run the risk of the wire nut pulling off the solid wire. Also, use a wire nut that has the metal spring insert on the inside. The all-plastic ones are junk and in my opinion should never be used.

Soldering: This is probably the best method for your application, although it is a permanent joint and any future ballast replacement will require cutting the joint out or is some cases the soldered joint can be re-heated and taken apart but this rarly works out.

No matter the method you choose (All are fine and will last for years if done correctly) tape the joint tightly with a high quality electrical tape like Type 33.

Hope this helps

swegyptian · 12/07/2008, 10:10 PM

58merc- Would heat shrink be OK instead of the tape? Or do you get a better seal and protection from the tape?

swegyptian · 12/07/2008, 10:11 PM

And I forgot, but I don't need any special type of solder, do I?

ccrider · 12/07/2008, 10:49 PM

33+ tape will last for years on its own

58merc · 12/08/2008, 09:57 PM

Heat shrink is fine. 33's a little faster and just as good if you wrap it tight.

I'd just use a flux core solder. Here's a little tip for soldering (giving away all the trade secrets here...) Make sure the wire your soldering is heated with the iron to melt the solder. Simply melting the solder with the iron will not give you the right bond.

Funny side note. Today when I got to work I had a service call to the eastern Iowa airport to change out 46 150w MH ballests. I couldn't help thinking it was a little ironic.

And by the way, it's way to cold here to be outside 20' in the air pulling them smelly ballests out of lights...oh well, guess what I'm doing tomarrow.

12/07/2008, 04:07 PM	#1
swegyptian Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Central Illinois Posts: 991	How to connect solid and stranded wires? I just wired up my T5 retro kits, and one little thing makes me nervous. It came with wire nuts to connect the pig tail that comes from the ballast, to the AC power cord. How else could I secure them? The AC wire is stranded, but the pig tail from the ballast is solid core. Can I still use a butt connector and crimp it? Or does the wire nut actually have better contact that a butt connector? I though about soldering it, but I wasn't sure if heat would be an issue, or if I could even get solder to stick to a solid core wire. At the least I would like to put some heat shrink tubing around whatever connector I use to protect it, which is difficult with a wire nut. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Alex

12/07/2008, 04:36 PM	#2
mg426 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: maryland Posts: 6,923	Either of the methods you have described should be AOK. __________________ I found a way to make a small fortune running a reef tank. Start with a large fortune. Unofficial President of the SEACLONE haters club Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef 110 lbs LR, 1x250watt XM 20K MH 2x175watt XM 20K MH on Magetics 2X96 watt actinic PC, 220 watt VHO actinic, 30 gallon refugium, closed loop system powered by Sequence Dart MSX 200 skimmer 38 gallon sump, Oceansmotions squirt

12/07/2008, 05:06 PM	#3
ccrider Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: pekin illinois Posts: 84	leave the stranded wire a fraction of an inch longer than the solid and twist the wirenut on, wrap with a piece of tape to make it secure

12/07/2008, 07:23 PM	#4
jimnrose Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Villages, Florida Posts: 1,093	I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it? Jim

12/07/2008, 07:57 PM	#5
casualreefer Moved On Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Nw Burbs of Chicago Posts: 1,152	i agree with you jim. i used wirenuts and taped em up with electrical tape.

12/07/2008, 09:16 PM	#8
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	I just solder and shrink them. I hate corroded wire nut innards.

12/07/2008, 09:55 PM	#9
Krazy302 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: New Jersey Posts: 37	I usually just use wire nuts, like said earlier leave strainded wire alittle longer than solid core and twist away. Then I usually put some liquid electrical tape inside the wire nut just to seal it up..

12/07/2008, 09:58 PM	#10
swegyptian Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Central Illinois Posts: 991	jda - You solder the solid core to the stranded? I have never done any soldering with solid core wire, so I don't know how well it would hold. I guess I could wrap them around each other and then solder them, with a final covering of heat shrink.

12/07/2008, 10:04 PM	#11
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	I just hold them right next to each other. If you are worried about it sticking, then you could roughen up the solid core wire with some light cuts with some dykes. If that doesn't work (always has for me), then I would connect them instead of using wire nuts. I have even used a connector and solder a time or two before.

12/07/2008, 10:08 PM	#12
58merc Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 30	Hi, I just so happen to be an Electrician. Butt splices: A good reliable joint if the right one is used for the wire size and it is crimped properly with the right tool. Wire nut: Another good joint if done properly and the right size of wire nut is used. Solid to stranded is something I encounter on a daily basis. The key is to be sure that the ends of the wire are even before you put the nut on. Twist it until the wire outside the nut twist together. Allowing the stranded wire to wrap itself around the solid is not the proper way to use a wire nut. If you do this you run the risk of the wire nut pulling off the solid wire. Also, use a wire nut that has the metal spring insert on the inside. The all-plastic ones are junk and in my opinion should never be used. Soldering: This is probably the best method for your application, although it is a permanent joint and any future ballast replacement will require cutting the joint out or is some cases the soldered joint can be re-heated and taken apart but this rarly works out. No matter the method you choose (All are fine and will last for years if done correctly) tape the joint tightly with a high quality electrical tape like Type 33. Hope this helps

12/07/2008, 10:10 PM	#13
swegyptian Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Central Illinois Posts: 991	58merc- Would heat shrink be OK instead of the tape? Or do you get a better seal and protection from the tape?

12/07/2008, 10:11 PM	#14
swegyptian Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Central Illinois Posts: 991	And I forgot, but I don't need any special type of solder, do I?

12/07/2008, 10:49 PM	#15
ccrider Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: pekin illinois Posts: 84	33+ tape will last for years on its own

12/08/2008, 09:57 PM	#16
58merc Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 30	Heat shrink is fine. 33's a little faster and just as good if you wrap it tight. I'd just use a flux core solder. Here's a little tip for soldering (giving away all the trade secrets here...) Make sure the wire your soldering is heated with the iron to melt the solder. Simply melting the solder with the iron will not give you the right bond. Funny side note. Today when I got to work I had a service call to the eastern Iowa airport to change out 46 150w MH ballests. I couldn't help thinking it was a little ironic. And by the way, it's way to cold here to be outside 20' in the air pulling them smelly ballests out of lights...oh well, guess what I'm doing tomarrow.