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01/28/2009, 10:49 AM | #1 |
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Location: Ephrata, PA
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Clamp amp meter or Kill-A-Watt meter
I want to figure out the exact $$ my system is costing me a month. I read a nice article on usuing a clamp amp meter and a patch cord. Is this necessary or do the kill-a-watt meters by P3 do the same exact thing?
I don't really understand all the conversions from amps/voltage/watts etc.
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1st time w/o a tank in 10+ years. Planning 65g..mainly fish, maybe a few LPS/Softies |
01/28/2009, 04:13 PM | #2 |
Moved On Up
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lansing, IL
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the P3 is all you need. To get an accurate measure I think its best to leave it one each appliance for at least a full day and record the KWHs used. But you could quickly check everything in watts and then plug in the watt numbers on the electricity calculator on the RC homepage with your local elecrtic rates.
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Joe Current Tank Info: it don't matter just don't bite it |
01/28/2009, 07:02 PM | #3 |
DID I SOUNDS SMRT??
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ontario, CAN
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Voltage x amperage = watts
watts / voltage = amperage watts / amperage = volts
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--DARRYL-- Current Tank Info: 200g SPS dominant Mixed Reef |
01/28/2009, 09:25 PM | #4 |
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I can't speak for the P3, but I do use the Kill-a-watt meter and I really like it. It's a great device.
I find myself checking out more than just the aquarium - including the electrical draw of the TV, the iron, microwave, house lights, etc. It convinced me to use only compact fluorescents for my house lighting. |
01/29/2009, 09:30 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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-Eric- |
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01/29/2009, 08:55 PM | #6 |
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Location: south jersey
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Kill-a-watt is the greatest thing. I pay 30$ a month for the TV!
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01/29/2009, 10:43 PM | #7 |
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For most things aquarium related, the kill-a-watt is a better option than the meter. You can easily come up with VA wattage (volts x amps = watts)...however, pumps and lights will need to have the power factor of the device figured in to determine RMS wattage (what you pay for). PF is not easy to determine...in comes the kill-a-watt, it will give you VA "watts", RMS wattage, power factor, volts, amps, and KwH's. Probably the best $30 I've spent on my tank
BTW, a kill-a-watt is an ABSOLUTE MUST for folks who like to tinker with aspirating NW pumps for protein skimmers. Low power factor is often encountered and can lead to premature pump failure. |
01/29/2009, 10:51 PM | #8 |
Seasoned reefer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: In Quebec, Canada
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MSX-Jeff at least here we don't pay for VAr, only Watts so a meter is enought.
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Temp 80F, PH 8.5-8.0, Alk 6.8-7.2, Ca 430, Mg 1700, NO3 0-0.25, PO4 0.04, 34.4 PPT Lights @ 100% all others, 35% White Current Tank Info: 60g Cube, 120lbs live rocks, Hydra52 2x120W, 2 MP40+ 1 MP10 @ 70%, Phosban 550 GFO+Carbon, 200W Heater, SWC Skimmer, Kalk ATO, 150 gpd RODI |
01/29/2009, 10:58 PM | #9 | |
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example: You have a pump that is rated for 50w. that pump has a PF of .50. If you just use a clamp on meter and do the math you will freak out when your math comes up with a wattage of 100w. When you plug the same pump into your kill-a-watt, the wattage reads 50w (the true RMS wattage), which is VA x PF = RMS watts (what you pay for) |
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01/30/2009, 06:28 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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1st time w/o a tank in 10+ years. Planning 65g..mainly fish, maybe a few LPS/Softies |
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