WTB: Solenoid Valve for 1/4 RODI Tubing

kajung2k · 02/11/2009, 09:19 PM

Anyone have the 411 on these? Basically I want them closed, but when you put 110v to them they open.

autotopoffDOTcom has them, but they are $34.00 each. Any help to find them at a lower cost would be great.

I'm going to use them for my auto top off.

Basically I have a pump in my RODI 50 gallon barell, it splits to a Y

One end goes to the kalk and into the sump, and the other one goes directly into the sump [fresh rodi]

The solenoids will plug into my controller dc8 and then use a few statements to open or close the solenoid depending on the PH of my water. [got the idea from TOTM] -- Less than 8.21 ph open the kalk solenoid, if >8.20 open the fresh rodi solenoid.

Anyhow.. if anyone has a 411 on them let me know.

thanks

KAJ

five.five-six · 05/17/2009, 12:30 AM

bringing up an old thread, i am considering the same thing but I have fear of Solenoid failure. I am thinking of using 2, on e controlled by pH and the other controlled by a float switch to feed a kalk reactor fed directly from my RO/DI system

ReefMeister2 · 05/17/2009, 02:55 AM

Your contingency backup is best suited by having your affluent run through a simple $20 float VALVE as the final return. This way, you have both electrical protection (float switch) and mechanical (float valve) thus nearly eliminating any chance of accidental hyper salinity. if the electical switch fails, the statisitcal chances of the other valve failing a the same time is almost nill.

five.five-six · 05/17/2009, 03:19 AM

I have thought about that however it will be running kalk which will likely foul the mechanical float, my idea is to run fail safe, meaning that if either ti level is to high or the pH is to high the one of the solenoids will close and either can stop the water. autotopofDOTcom also has some sort of spill detector that i may use as well, I juat have a huge fear of a brackish tank

ReefMeister2 · 05/17/2009, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by five.five-six
I have thought about that however it will be running kalk which will likely foul the mechanical float,

I too was running Kalk.
I used a standard Kent Float Valve mounted directly onto the baffle leading to the pump compartment and it never clogged on me. I did do routine maintenance on it about once per year by removing the float valve and soaking in vinegar. Ran for over 4 years before I had to disassemble everything to make way for remodeling

02/11/2009, 09:19 PM	#1
kajung2k Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Corona, CA Posts: 1,002	WTB: Solenoid Valve for 1/4 RODI Tubing Anyone have the 411 on these? Basically I want them closed, but when you put 110v to them they open. autotopoffDOTcom has them, but they are $34.00 each. Any help to find them at a lower cost would be great. I'm going to use them for my auto top off. Basically I have a pump in my RODI 50 gallon barell, it splits to a Y One end goes to the kalk and into the sump, and the other one goes directly into the sump [fresh rodi] The solenoids will plug into my controller dc8 and then use a few statements to open or close the solenoid depending on the PH of my water. [got the idea from TOTM] -- Less than 8.21 ph open the kalk solenoid, if >8.20 open the fresh rodi solenoid. Anyhow.. if anyone has a 411 on them let me know. thanks KAJ

05/17/2009, 12:30 AM	#2
five.five-six Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Corona Posts: 7,827 Blog Entries: 6	bringing up an old thread, i am considering the same thing but I have fear of Solenoid failure. I am thinking of using 2, on e controlled by pH and the other controlled by a float switch to feed a kalk reactor fed directly from my RO/DI system __________________ Originally posted by yellowslayer13: "I hate that hole" Current Tank Info: SCMAS Member 225 peninsula euroreef RS180 Apex 400W X 3 20k radiums / Spectra mixed SPS

05/17/2009, 03:19 AM	#4
five.five-six Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Corona Posts: 7,827 Blog Entries: 6	I have thought about that however it will be running kalk which will likely foul the mechanical float, my idea is to run fail safe, meaning that if either ti level is to high or the pH is to high the one of the solenoids will close and either can stop the water. autotopofDOTcom also has some sort of spill detector that i may use as well, I juat have a huge fear of a brackish tank __________________ Originally posted by yellowslayer13: "I hate that hole" Current Tank Info: SCMAS Member 225 peninsula euroreef RS180 Apex 400W X 3 20k radiums / Spectra mixed SPS

05/17/2009, 02:55 AM	#3
ReefMeister2 Moved On Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Garden Grove, California Posts: 2,066	Your contingency backup is best suited by having your affluent run through a simple $20 float VALVE as the final return. This way, you have both electrical protection (float switch) and mechanical (float valve) thus nearly eliminating any chance of accidental hyper salinity. if the electical switch fails, the statisitcal chances of the other valve failing a the same time is almost nill.