Lights out for cyano....3 days ok?

joem1cha3l · 04/20/2009, 05:41 PM

Well guys have Cyano and i found what i believe is the problem in my tank. Koralias were not working so there was zero flow in the tank....I want to kill this stuff, then do a good size water change and get everything flowing back to normal. I have a bunch of softies/shroom/zoos in my tank. With candy coral, xenia and acans...will they be okay with lights out for 72 hours?

jewcy240 · 04/20/2009, 05:47 PM

It depends on how healthy they are to start with. If there in good shape go for it, but the wont like it

Aquarist007 · 04/20/2009, 09:10 PM

with no flow you probably have a nice build up of nitrates and phosphates on the rock and the surface of the substrate.
These fuel the cyano. Turning the lights off won't solve this problem.
I would take up as much as the cyano as I could and then take a turkey baster to the reef rock and substrate. This will get all the detrius back into the water column where it can be filtered off
You might want to run a filter sock over your drain while do this to help filter out some of the detrius

GW81 · 04/21/2009, 07:20 AM

+1 with capn, but to answer your original question, pretty much any coral will be fine with a 3day blackout. Just make sure to ease back into your lighting schedule after the 3 days.

Aquarist007 · 04/21/2009, 01:33 PM

run one of these in the display tank---cost a buck for either and the chaeto stays together in them so it doesn't mess with power heads ect. It will consume your nitrates and phosphates within three weeks of starting:

small alien · 04/21/2009, 02:12 PM

do you worry about ph swings during the unlit hours? seems I've read that can be a problem and reason many people run 24 hour lighting over their fuges. otherwise seems like an awesome idea.

Larah · 04/21/2009, 02:20 PM

Ya know, I am so frustrated with the cyano I could scream! I faithfully do a 10 gallon water change weekly, I bow off the rocks and corals and I vaccum the sand and I still have cyano. I even used chemi clean and turned the lights off for about 60 hours...
The sand looks great for about 2 days and then it starts getting brownish, which turns into reddish, which if left completely alone starts to grown into thin wavey tendrils...
I have a sump full of cheato and Calurpa (sp?), I run a sock and phosban, I don't over feed, my bulbs are new PCs, 10000K and various wavelengths of actinics.
I have all of the powerheads I can fit in there and still have room for the rock and fish... I tell you it's frustrating as H-E-double hockey sticks!

Tank is about 18 months old. and I use Mark Weiss's Reef Vital DNA about every 3 days....

I use Instant Ocean RC for water changed, and Kent Super DKH to buffer and Seachem Calcium to bolster calcium...

I am at a complete loss as to what to do next!

Larah · 04/21/2009, 04:53 PM

bump

Aquarist007 · 04/21/2009, 05:47 PM

hello Laura--long time since are paths have crossed

Do you have any measureable nitrates and phosphates?
This might not be cyano at all-rather algae--and in your case it could be silicates from the sand that are caussing it.
Since it is about 18 months now perhaps you should think about changing out the substrate or using a silicate removing substance

I am not familiar with Mark Weis's Reef Vital ---- have your tried going without it for a week or two?

Aquarist007 · 04/21/2009, 05:51 PM

Brown Algae

Diatoms:

Description: Brown, yellow, or rust colored dusting on the rocks and substrate. Diatom blooms in newly established aquariums will usually subside after a few weeks.

Causes: New tank set ups. Large water changes using municipal water supply or disturbances to your system. Changes in silicate levels in the water supply. Overdosing Iodine additives.

Solutions: Increasing circulation. Performing more frequent, smaller water changes as opposed to larger ones. Using silicate removing media.

Herbivores: Snails and sand shifting gobies are effective at keeping the sand bed free of ongoing diatoms in well established tanks"

http://www.aquariumillusions.com/hus...-and-solutions

joem1cha3l · 04/21/2009, 05:55 PM

capn, where would I get something like that for the cheato?

Aquarist007 · 04/21/2009, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by joem1cha3l
capn, where would I get something like that for the cheato?

we have dollar stores up here in Canada---you must have an equivalent kind of store?

Larah · 04/21/2009, 09:35 PM

LOL! Yeah we have dollar store here too captn! We're not completely uncivilized!

yes you're right it has been a while.. I wasn't aware that was a silicate removing product.
What product would you suggest? It onyl occurs on the sand bed, by the way.. Guess I should have said that.. and no, ther's no nitrates, nitrites, ammonia or phosphates present.
I'm going to try forgoing the reef Vital DNA and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks!

Aquarist007 · 04/21/2009, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Larah
LOL! Yeah we have dollar store here too captn! We're not completely uncivilized! yes you're right it has been a while.. I wasn't aware that was a silicate removing product.
What product would you suggest? It onyl occurs on the sand bed, by the way.. Guess I should have said that.. and no, ther's no nitrates, nitrites, ammonia or phosphates present.
I'm going to try forgoing the reef Vital DNA and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks!

There are absorbents available, such as Seachem's PhosGuard and Kent's Phosphate Sponge, which will remove phosphates and silicates from water.
There is also a test kit available for silicates which I would use first

Larah · 04/22/2009, 12:17 PM

Captn',
Ah ha! Sounds like a plan then... I gotta tell you if this 'fixes' the issue I owe you big time! I have some nice zoathids I could send you!

Aquarist007 · 04/22/2009, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Larah
Captn',
Ah ha! Sounds like a plan then... I gotta tell you if this 'fixes' the issue I owe you big time! I have some nice zoathids I could send you!

thanks---you have a deal

if this doesn't work then vodka/sugar dosing will---not you---the tank

but try this first

Larah · 04/22/2009, 02:01 PM

Ok I'll try that first and then we'll dose the tank and me, if it doesn't work!

Aquarist007 · 04/22/2009, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Larah
Ok I'll try that first and then we'll dose the tank and me, if it doesn't work!

that's what I like about you---you catch on quickly

Larah · 04/22/2009, 05:17 PM

Well I try

04/20/2009, 05:41 PM	#1
joem1cha3l Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,158	Lights out for cyano....3 days ok? Well guys have Cyano and i found what i believe is the problem in my tank. Koralias were not working so there was zero flow in the tank....I want to kill this stuff, then do a good size water change and get everything flowing back to normal. I have a bunch of softies/shroom/zoos in my tank. With candy coral, xenia and acans...will they be okay with lights out for 72 hours? __________________ IM10G Nano - MP10, AI Nano, RKL

04/20/2009, 05:47 PM	#2
jewcy240 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 126	It depends on how healthy they are to start with. If there in good shape go for it, but the wont like it __________________ Pm me if you got any questions. Current Tank Info: 24 gal jbj nano cube

04/20/2009, 09:10 PM	#3
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	with no flow you probably have a nice build up of nitrates and phosphates on the rock and the surface of the substrate. These fuel the cyano. Turning the lights off won't solve this problem. I would take up as much as the cyano as I could and then take a turkey baster to the reef rock and substrate. This will get all the detrius back into the water column where it can be filtered off You might want to run a filter sock over your drain while do this to help filter out some of the detrius __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

04/21/2009, 01:33 PM	#5
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	run one of these in the display tank---cost a buck for either and the chaeto stays together in them so it doesn't mess with power heads ect. It will consume your nitrates and phosphates within three weeks of starting: __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

04/21/2009, 02:12 PM	#6
small alien The fungus is among us. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Earth Posts: 3,884	do you worry about ph swings during the unlit hours? seems I've read that can be a problem and reason many people run 24 hour lighting over their fuges. otherwise seems like an awesome idea. __________________ This moment is all we have. Current Tank Info: 75 mixed reef. F OSFF, Clingfish, M/F Leopards, M Mandy, Darwin Clown, Bullet Goby, Green Clown Goby, M/F Matted Files, Bluestripe Pipe, Tailspot Blenny, Canary Wrasse, Royal Gramma, Papua Toby Puffer, Snooty Maori Wrasse.

04/21/2009, 07:20 AM	#4
GW81 Moved On Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 79	+1 with capn, but to answer your original question, pretty much any coral will be fine with a 3day blackout. Just make sure to ease back into your lighting schedule after the 3 days.

04/21/2009, 02:20 PM	#7
Larah Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon USA Posts: 1,932	Ya know, I am so frustrated with the cyano I could scream! I faithfully do a 10 gallon water change weekly, I bow off the rocks and corals and I vaccum the sand and I still have cyano. I even used chemi clean and turned the lights off for about 60 hours... The sand looks great for about 2 days and then it starts getting brownish, which turns into reddish, which if left completely alone starts to grown into thin wavey tendrils... I have a sump full of cheato and Calurpa (sp?), I run a sock and phosban, I don't over feed, my bulbs are new PCs, 10000K and various wavelengths of actinics. I have all of the powerheads I can fit in there and still have room for the rock and fish... I tell you it's frustrating as H-E-double hockey sticks! Tank is about 18 months old. and I use Mark Weiss's Reef Vital DNA about every 3 days.... I use Instant Ocean RC for water changed, and Kent Super DKH to buffer and Seachem Calcium to bolster calcium... I am at a complete loss as to what to do next!

04/21/2009, 04:53 PM	#8
Larah Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon USA Posts: 1,932	bump

04/21/2009, 05:47 PM	#9
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	hello Laura--long time since are paths have crossed Do you have any measureable nitrates and phosphates? This might not be cyano at all-rather algae--and in your case it could be silicates from the sand that are caussing it. Since it is about 18 months now perhaps you should think about changing out the substrate or using a silicate removing substance I am not familiar with Mark Weis's Reef Vital ---- have your tried going without it for a week or two? __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock Last edited by Aquarist007; 04/21/2009 at 05:52 PM.

04/21/2009, 05:51 PM	#10
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	Brown Algae Diatoms: Description: Brown, yellow, or rust colored dusting on the rocks and substrate. Diatom blooms in newly established aquariums will usually subside after a few weeks. Causes: New tank set ups. Large water changes using municipal water supply or disturbances to your system. Changes in silicate levels in the water supply. Overdosing Iodine additives. Solutions: Increasing circulation. Performing more frequent, smaller water changes as opposed to larger ones. Using silicate removing media. Herbivores: Snails and sand shifting gobies are effective at keeping the sand bed free of ongoing diatoms in well established tanks" http://www.aquariumillusions.com/hus...-and-solutions __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

04/21/2009, 05:55 PM	#11
joem1cha3l Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,158	capn, where would I get something like that for the cheato? __________________ IM10G Nano - MP10, AI Nano, RKL

04/21/2009, 09:35 PM	#13
Larah Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon USA Posts: 1,932	LOL! Yeah we have dollar store here too captn! We're not completely uncivilized! yes you're right it has been a while.. I wasn't aware that was a silicate removing product. What product would you suggest? It onyl occurs on the sand bed, by the way.. Guess I should have said that.. and no, ther's no nitrates, nitrites, ammonia or phosphates present. I'm going to try forgoing the reef Vital DNA and see if that makes a difference. Thanks!

04/22/2009, 12:17 PM	#15
Larah Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon USA Posts: 1,932	Captn', Ah ha! Sounds like a plan then... I gotta tell you if this 'fixes' the issue I owe you big time! I have some nice zoathids I could send you!

04/22/2009, 02:01 PM	#17
Larah Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon USA Posts: 1,932	Ok I'll try that first and then we'll dose the tank and me, if it doesn't work!

04/22/2009, 05:17 PM	#19
Larah Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon USA Posts: 1,932	Well I try