Bathtub Floor?

rbredding · 06/11/2009, 08:10 PM

Well that's what it's called in camping tents, anyway...

I've got an older (but in pretty good condition) base that I picked up with my 90gal. It's got some water damage where the previous owner obviously had a flood (the plywood is strong structurally, however the first layer is peeling up slightly in the center)

I'm thinking of running a coat of KILZ along the bottom and then adding a 3/8" sheet also completely KILZ'D on top of it and then using plastic laminate, silicone caulk, and a bulkhead to create a 3" deep "tub" along the entire bottom of the base cabinet (that will drain out the back wall to the exterior of the house)

1. Have any of you done anything like this before?

2. Do you think it'll be necessary/useful (not much effort on my part and I have most of the parts lying around)?

By my calculation it will hold at most 10gals (depending on how big the sump ends up being) and the drain will carry water out faster than it would fill up (unless the bottom of the tank blew out)

This tank will sit in the office which is carpeted and has some relatively nice furniture that could be damaged should a flood happen while on vacation (do they ever happen while you go to the store for 10 mins)

Agu · 06/11/2009, 08:38 PM

I've seen where people have lined their stands to hold water in case of a leak. The drain is a nice touch

.

rbredding · 06/11/2009, 08:46 PM

I was going to use a low pressure crack check valve which will keep critters out and will open when approximately 1.0-1.5 psi loads the pipe..

der_wille_zur_macht · 06/12/2009, 06:06 AM

I waterproof and "tub" the bottoms of all my stands to hold water in the case of a sump overflow. I've never made a permenant drain like you're planning, but it makes sense.

If you put a check valve on the line, make sure you check it out from time to time, in case a critter makes it halfway in then gets stuck.

Also, might be worth it to pick up one of those screeching spill alarms, to alert you if/when there ever is a spill - especially with your drain plumbed in. Otherwise, if a leak starts, the water will just run outside the house and you may not notice until it's too late, even if you are home (and asleep, or in another room.) With the alarm, you'll know the second water hits the sump floor.

rbredding · 06/12/2009, 06:19 AM

that's not a bad idea wille... I'll look into them.. but as aweful as it sounds.. I'd rather lose the livestock in my tank than deal with 90gal on the floor..

what do you use to tub the bottom of your stands?

der_wille_zur_macht · 06/12/2009, 06:30 AM

Usually, a "dam" or rim made from plywood, screwed (stainless steel) and glued all the way around. Then, several thick coats of marine spar urethane. Then, I caulk the seams (even though they are usually tight and well protected by the urethane at this point) with silicone, in case expansion/contraction of the wood ever opens them up.

rbredding · 06/12/2009, 08:06 AM

cool... Thanks..

06/11/2009, 08:10 PM	#1
rbredding I HEART BUILD THREADS!!! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Alpharetta, Ga Posts: 337	Bathtub Floor? Well that's what it's called in camping tents, anyway... I've got an older (but in pretty good condition) base that I picked up with my 90gal. It's got some water damage where the previous owner obviously had a flood (the plywood is strong structurally, however the first layer is peeling up slightly in the center) I'm thinking of running a coat of KILZ along the bottom and then adding a 3/8" sheet also completely KILZ'D on top of it and then using plastic laminate, silicone caulk, and a bulkhead to create a 3" deep "tub" along the entire bottom of the base cabinet (that will drain out the back wall to the exterior of the house) 1. Have any of you done anything like this before? 2. Do you think it'll be necessary/useful (not much effort on my part and I have most of the parts lying around)? By my calculation it will hold at most 10gals (depending on how big the sump ends up being) and the drain will carry water out faster than it would fill up (unless the bottom of the tank blew out) This tank will sit in the office which is carpeted and has some relatively nice furniture that could be damaged should a flood happen while on vacation (do they ever happen while you go to the store for 10 mins) __________________ There are no stupid questions... especially when I ask them.. Current Tank Info: 90gal Reef & 30L Dwarf Fish Only

06/11/2009, 08:38 PM	#2
Agu Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Sarasota, Florida Posts: 30,279	I've seen where people have lined their stands to hold water in case of a leak. The drain is a nice touch . __________________ Less technology , more biology . Current Tank Info: 30 gallon half cube and 5.5, both reef tanks

06/11/2009, 08:46 PM	#3
rbredding I HEART BUILD THREADS!!! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Alpharetta, Ga Posts: 337	I was going to use a low pressure crack check valve which will keep critters out and will open when approximately 1.0-1.5 psi loads the pipe.. __________________ There are no stupid questions... especially when I ask them.. Current Tank Info: 90gal Reef & 30L Dwarf Fish Only

06/12/2009, 06:06 AM	#4
der_wille_zur_macht Team RC Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: NY Posts: 17,749	I waterproof and "tub" the bottoms of all my stands to hold water in the case of a sump overflow. I've never made a permenant drain like you're planning, but it makes sense. If you put a check valve on the line, make sure you check it out from time to time, in case a critter makes it halfway in then gets stuck. Also, might be worth it to pick up one of those screeching spill alarms, to alert you if/when there ever is a spill - especially with your drain plumbed in. Otherwise, if a leak starts, the water will just run outside the house and you may not notice until it's too late, even if you are home (and asleep, or in another room.) With the alarm, you'll know the second water hits the sump floor. __________________ Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)

06/12/2009, 06:19 AM	#5
rbredding I HEART BUILD THREADS!!! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Alpharetta, Ga Posts: 337	that's not a bad idea wille... I'll look into them.. but as aweful as it sounds.. I'd rather lose the livestock in my tank than deal with 90gal on the floor.. what do you use to tub the bottom of your stands? __________________ There are no stupid questions... especially when I ask them.. Current Tank Info: 90gal Reef & 30L Dwarf Fish Only

06/12/2009, 06:30 AM	#6
der_wille_zur_macht Team RC Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: NY Posts: 17,749	Usually, a "dam" or rim made from plywood, screwed (stainless steel) and glued all the way around. Then, several thick coats of marine spar urethane. Then, I caulk the seams (even though they are usually tight and well protected by the urethane at this point) with silicone, in case expansion/contraction of the wood ever opens them up. __________________ Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)

06/12/2009, 08:06 AM	#7
rbredding I HEART BUILD THREADS!!! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Alpharetta, Ga Posts: 337	cool... Thanks.. __________________ There are no stupid questions... especially when I ask them.. Current Tank Info: 90gal Reef & 30L Dwarf Fish Only