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Unread 06/27/2009, 01:41 PM   #1
slathrum
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Iwasaki 175 watt 15k SE bulb

I'm not sure how long these bulbs have been out, but has anyone been using these for at least several months now? What are your thoughts about them, and do they hold their spectrum or do they lose their blue color over time?


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Unread 06/27/2009, 02:43 PM   #2
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The best, most efficient bulb made if you like the color....


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Unread 06/27/2009, 03:18 PM   #3
tatoofr
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I used them for about a year, never saw anything color or growth wise.
Not a bad bulb, very bright but too white.
Radiums were bulb of choice if i still were running Mh.
Frank


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Unread 06/27/2009, 03:25 PM   #4
slathrum
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I must be mistaken then. I thought these bulbs were supposed to be a little on the blue side. Basically, I should expect a white bulb that I will need to supplement with blue or actinic color?


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Unread 06/27/2009, 03:32 PM   #5
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You will need actinic for sure. Not a blue bulb at all.


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Unread 06/27/2009, 08:01 PM   #6
Toadally
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I just bought one of these bulbs, but have not installed it as of yet. I did some research and read quite a bit before deciding to go with it. It is my understanding that this bulb has a PAR rating higher than any other bulb in it's class. Also, I read that it gives a crisp white/blue light that does not need any actinic to supplement the color and that it stands on it's on.


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Unread 06/27/2009, 08:53 PM   #7
slathrum
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That's what I thought, but now I'm reading that it gives off a slightly more yellow look than say an XM 10000K.


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Unread 06/27/2009, 10:26 PM   #8
Toadally
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Quote:
Originally posted by slathrum
That's what I thought, but now I'm reading that it gives off a slightly more yellow look than say an XM 10000K.
Everyone has their own opinion about things. I may fire the thing up and love it.


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Unread 06/27/2009, 10:29 PM   #9
Toadally
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Found this posted:

Mott,

both PAR and PPFD measure irradiance levels, and the higher the better. There are a few differences, but the one I want to point out is that PAR is measured at the source (bulb), and PPFD is measured at the target. Seeing the PPFD is more useful to me, since i want to know how much light my coral is receiving, vs how much the bulb is cranking out. Kinda like knowing I have a 300-HP motor, but what I really like to measure is how much HP is getting to my tires!

I have a clam on my sandbed using the Iwasaki, and it's doing fine. It would do alot better with a calcium reactor .. The color is a crisp white light with slight blue tint.

The downside of Iwasaki is that it's 20-30% more than other bulbs. But hellolights is having a sale and free shipping...fyi.

I had a friend that had hamiltons, and he switched to Reeflux and prefers it. He said the color on his corals looked better.

Hope this helps!


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Unread 06/28/2009, 06:58 AM   #10
pIankton
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I've heard that certain bulbs can only be run on electronic ballasts? I'm running magnetics and have been intrigued with these bulbs for a while and am concerned with a.) They need to be run on electronic ballasts and b.) Since I'm running magnetics, could that cause the color output to appear a little more yellow?


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Unread 06/28/2009, 07:32 AM   #11
Toadally
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Quote:
Originally posted by pIankton
I've heard that certain bulbs can only be run on electronic ballasts? I'm running magnetics and have been intrigued with these bulbs for a while and am concerned with a.) They need to be run on electronic ballasts and b.) Since I'm running magnetics, could that cause the color output to appear a little more yellow?
From what I understand they can be run on magnetic ballasts. I do believe they run a little bluer on electronic though. That is not to say that they run yellow by any means. All this is from what I've read about the bulb.


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Unread 06/28/2009, 08:01 AM   #12
DarG
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The Iwasaki 175 watt 15K is a probe start lamp. The compatible magnetic ballast is the M57 175 watt probe start ballast. They can also be run on electronic. This lamp measures very close to a true 15000K lamp according to Sanjays measurements.
It actually has higher par than the XM 10000K (also a probe start lamp) when both are run on the M57 ballast. The XM 10K measured very close to a true 10000K lamp.

Actually having experience with both lamps, the Iwasaki I would describe as a cool white lamp and the XM a warm white lamp.

There is a good deal of output in the blue portion of the spectrum from the Iwasaki lamp but when most people talk about a blue look they are talking about a 20000K plus look. So in that regard, yes the Iwasaki can benefit from suppplemental flourescent lighting if one wants a bluer look. Personally, I would supplement with 420nm actinics but what color one wants to attain in there tank is a personal choice.
The XM 10K lacks much blue energy but has a good deal of 420 nm actinic energy so its logical to supplement with blue flourescents. But again, supplement color to get the look you want.

Thats my 2 cents on these lamps for what its worth.


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Unread 06/28/2009, 10:06 AM   #13
slathrum
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I've used a Phoenix 14000k previously and it seemed more blue to me. I guess blue to me and to someone else are relative terms that could differ. When using T5's, I would consider something like the ATI aquablue special to be crisp white with a slight blue shade to it. I ended up using 2 aquablue specials to 1 blue plus. Is there a newer website or link where I could see multiple screenshots of what they actually look like? I've seen the PPFD graphs by Sanjay and the pics in the 250 watt bulb comparison in the archives. Just wondering if anyone has tested more of the newer bulbs recently.


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Unread 06/28/2009, 10:38 AM   #14
DarG
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The Phoenix 14000K actually measures above 20000K. It is actually bluer than some 20K rated lamps. Many of the 14 and 15K rated lamps actually measure 20K +.
The color temp ratings are often simply marketing numbers and dont represent the true color temp. produced by the lamps.


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