Slightly Different Pentagon Corner Tank

[eon]

Hello everyone i just inherited (salvaged) a 44 gallon pentagon tank from my parents but i really don't like the classic look of the pentagon and would much rather have a more modern looking cube so i decided to be creative. i have turned it around and put the back corner facing foward this will also give me the ability to run piping down the back of the tank on a square stand w/o separating it from the wall (its a tight space)



I have so far designed this stand for it and i wanted to know if it looks like it will support the weight it will wrapped around in 1/2 inch ply and 3/4 on the top and bottom



any and all input is appreciated, thanks

[evsalty]

Looks like it will work very well. Sump wise though????

[eon]

im gonna go w/ a cube sump something like this

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/s...mp_topview.jpg

[evsalty]

That is a nice looking sump. Looks like you will need to install the sump while building the stand unless you shrink it down a few inches.

[eon]

i will probably shrink it down a bit so if the need to take it out ever occurs i can

[lotusstar]

that is a really interesting idea. I like it a lot really hope it works out I would love to see pics when you get it up and going. There is a great thread for just us corner tankers, here is the link. Make your way over there and nose around.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1592474

[EnglishRebel]

Eon
First let me say that the stand as constructed will definitely support the weight. However that's not the be all and end all of stand construction.
If I read your drawing correctly you have a top frame from 2x6s and a bottom frame from 2x4s and 2x6 legs. It looks like your top frame is sitting on top of the legs rather than the frame wrapping around the legs. With the former you do not have a good enough connection between the frame and the legs that you do with the latter (where you can screw through the frame into the legs to secure it).
If this is in fact the case you run the risk of the frame "racking" and the top separating from the legs. You also do not have any gussets in the side frames which will also allow the frame to rack (you have small ones on the back at the bottom). I know if you put the legs inside the top frame you lose a lot of space inside for your sump and you can't afford to do that.
Here’s what I would do:

From your narrative it seems as if this will be sitting in a corner of the room. In which case skin the sides that face the wall with 1/4" plywood -- glued and pinned (or screwed) to the top frame, the legs, and the bottom frame. This will serve as both a connection between the legs and the top and bottom frames and also as a "shear wall" that will prevent the stand from racking in two directions. You can eliminate the gussets on the back as the plywood serves this purpose. The ones on the top (across the corners of the top frame) will not add any strength once you screw the 3/4" plywood down so you can eliminate them too.
To better attach the remaining front leg (the one facing you as you look at the drawing (BTW great drawing ) I would get a couple of those right angles steel deck brackets from Lowes and attach them to the leg and the top frame.
Good luck.

OBTW

To Reef Central

[eon]

its actually 2x4 top frame and legs with 2x2 bottom frame i was going to skin the 2 back sides with 1/2" actually and make the front 2 doors and ill make sure to buy a few of those brackets as well.

thanks for the info

[eon]

also if anyone knows about glass i was wondering if drilling that many holes will make that back glass loose integrity. is there a distance between the holes and the side i should keep or i my just being over cautious.

[EnglishRebel]

Originally posted by eon
its actually 2x4 top frame and legs with 2x2 bottom frame i was going to skin the 2 back sides with 1/2" actually and make the front 2 doors and ill make sure to buy a few of those brackets as well.

thanks for the info

That'll work just fine.

[eon]

i was wondering would replacing the 1/2 and 3/4 inch plywood with MDF reduce the structural integrity?

Also if anybody knows about the glass question i asked a couple posts up that would be greatly appreciated

thanks

[loosecannon]

Originally posted by eon
Hello everyone i just inherited (salvaged) a 44 gallon pentagon tank from my parents but i really don't like the classic look of the pentagon and would much rather have a more modern looking cube so i decided to be creative. i have turned it around and put the back corner facing foward this will also give me the ability to run piping down the back of the tank on a square stand w/o separating it from the wall (its a tight space)



I have so far designed this stand for it and i wanted to know if it looks like it will support the weight it will wrapped around in 1/2 inch ply and 3/4 on the top and bottom



any and all input is appreciated, thanks

I have a 44 gal. pentagon tank to and did the same thing. Now instead of 3 small viewing panels I have two big ones. I have a 160 ps from Aqua traders in the back with a mag-3 mash mod on it . I panted the back blue, 3 cotes on the bottom 2 in the middle, and 1 on top . So It gets darker as you go down.

[eon]

finally started building the stand
here is the final sketch up



and here is the start of the build







I will be skinning the back 2 sides with one inch plywood for extra support and the front 2 will be doors

[syrinx]

Many of the old perfecto 44 pents were tempered glass and cannot be drilled. Also they are the most breakin`est tanks I experienced in my 15yrs in the business. Be careful. Also bear in mind the glass is the cheapest part of a reef setup-If you spend80 bucks extra in making things work with this tank, you have surpassed its value. That being said- love the drawings- and I am well known for doing things for the sake of doing them, as opposed to the "easy way". Thats what makes it a hobby!

[eon]

according to the spec sheet only the bottom is tempered

http://www.marineland.com/sites/Mari...nk%20Specs.pdf

so i have my fingers crossed

btw what do u mean breakin'est, cracking from drilling or the seams?

[syrinx]

I will send you a PM

[eon]

all pieces arrived from glass-holes (great people to do business with) and successfully installed yesterday in under an hour

(1) 1500gph Overflow (chose this for redundancy and looks not really performance)

Closed Loop
(1) 1 1/2 outlet w/ strainer
(2) 3/4 returns

i should be able to run 2 pan world 40px pumps (1 for return and 1 for closed loop) no problem right?






would anyone advise getting extra support for the drilled glass maybe a sheet of plexiglass on top of it?

or should i be ok?

[jcovercash]

Really Unique setup. I really like this!

[Michael]

Originally posted by lotusstar
that is a really interesting idea. I like it a lot really hope it works out I would love to see pics when you get it up and going. There is a great thread for just us corner tankers, here is the link. Make your way over there and nose around.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1592474

+1 , join the club and learn some tips

[eon]

just posted earlier today

[eon]

Need some help, Right now im looking into lighting and having a difficult time due to shape (22"x22"x12"x12"x12") and depth (24") and of coarse budget, here is what i have in mind:


1) 250w MH (fishneedit)
2) 150w MH + 4 T5s (fishneedit)
3) 250w MH + 4 T5s (fishneedit)
or
4) 4 T5s only (TEK or ATI)

Remember BUDGET is the name of the game lol

btw im planning on keeping SPS and an anemone (rbta or gbta)

[syrinx]

congrats man! Super happy all went well. I would use the 250 config- to get some punch down that deep tank.

[eon]

Originally posted by syrinx
congrats man! Super happy all went well. I would use the 250 config- to get some punch down that deep tank.

thanks a lot man the 250 with the t5s or is that to much light?

[syrinx]

If it is too much light- and it could be for theLxW maybe use 2x T-5 for actinics. I tend to go for the highest wattage of halides I can utilise, and then if its too much I use less efficient (lower par) bulbs. Of course if you have the 4 T-5s you could always run the halide less. Generally speaking though - I would go with the most you can afford to do- saves upgrading. As far as strengthening the tank goes- In all truth I prob would not. Might oughta- prob wouldn`t. I would however use flex plumbing lines. It wont take much of a bump to hard PVC to torque the glass thats drilled.

[eon]

cool ill probably go with the 250w MH + 4 T5s (fishneedit) and yeah i was planning on using flex pvc because of the spacing thanks for all the help