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Unread 08/04/2009, 06:35 PM   #1
stricknine
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Help with Ca Rx Set Up Please--Pics

I just set up my calcium reactor for the first time, and all seems well but I just wanted to confirm this is correct and get a few questions answered. It's an Octopus CR100 with an SMS 122? Milwaukee PH Controller and gauges. I have a 75G tank, 75G sump, and 20G frag.

Here's my set up:



1/ Why do I have two outputs on the top? One seems to be a constant flow while the other spits and sputters randomly.

2/ I have a 50GPH intake pump, controlled with a plastic needle valve. It seems to work so far, is this okay?

3/ I've been playing with the CO2 for about 2 hours, and it seems pretty flakey, everything I set it at seems to be completely different a half hour later. Any reason or faulty solenoid?

4/ With a PH controller set at approx 6.5 do I even need to be concerned with the bubble count?

5/ Just to be sure, can someone confirm the PH/CA/ALK params I should get this set at? As above, I am also running Ultra Lith (Zeovit Equivalent).

Thanks All!


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Unread 08/04/2009, 07:49 PM   #2
James77
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1- one is is most likely an air bleeder?
2-yes, so long as it is consistent
3- who makes the regulator?- some are finicky
4-if the pH controller is reading inside the reactor, then you should just set it ot the desired pH per instructions/tank demand
5-soem pointers on setting it up:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php


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Unread 08/04/2009, 08:35 PM   #3
Henry Bowman
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james has some great points there. I agree with all of then wholeheartedly.

1. Many reactors have a bleed off line. When setting up and tuning a reactor you need the ability to bleed off excess gas in the reactor.
2 Valve should NOT be located on the effluent side of the reactor. They will clog QUICKLY due to the extreme hardness of the effluent. Control the flow into the reactor...
3 Regulators can be a PITA. The needle valve is particularly important.
4. Definitely need to control the pH within the reactor. Too high, no Ca / Alk production, too low and the media turns into mush.

More information on set up can be reviewed here....
http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/reactor.html


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Current Tank Info: 90 gl SPS dominant / upgrade in the works
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Unread 08/04/2009, 09:24 PM   #4
stricknine
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Thanks all, few replys;
1/ What do I do with the slow sputtering line assuming it is the bleed off? Block it?
2/ Luckily I did put the valve on the intake. Does this control the effluent rate now?
3/ 4/ Miluakee sms 122 PH controller. I am assuming if I set the controller at 6.5 or so than I do not have to count bubbles. Am I correct?

5/ will definately read more pointers, thanks!

Thanks again.


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Unread 08/05/2009, 03:52 AM   #5
Dejavu
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Quote:
Originally posted by stricknine
Thanks all, few replys;
1/ What do I do with the slow sputtering line assuming it is the bleed off? Block it?
2/ Luckily I did put the valve on the intake. Does this control the effluent rate now?
3/ 4/ Miluakee sms 122 PH controller. I am assuming if I set the controller at 6.5 or so than I do not have to count bubbles. Am I correct?

5/ will definately read more pointers, thanks!

Thanks again.
1) leave it open for the air to bleed out.

2) Yes you should beqable to control it with the valve.

3&4) You want to dail it in manually first. Controllor are great but there are too many factors that can lead to disastor. solenoid could go bad or the probe leading to increase pH.

As a side note, it looks like your regulator is a Miluakee. I found that runninig the feed CO2 at 15 psi will help stablize it.


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Unread 08/05/2009, 04:35 PM   #6
Henry Bowman
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Once the reactor is dialed in and working, shut off the bleed off valve. Check every once in a while, bleed off any gas and shut.

If your pH is running 6.5 no need to count bubbles. Dont let the pH go below 6.5...


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Unread 08/29/2009, 04:47 PM   #7
trexer
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That is an interesting set up you have. Nice job!


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