Help buying QT tanks, you've convinced me,

[Crawfishy]

So I've read up and decided to buy QT tanks, one for live rock, one livestock.


I have a 28g Nano-Cube so I guess I get a 20 gallon rubbermaid tub to cycle and QT the LR, and a 5g Mini Bow to QT the fish and inverts. I don't mean to use LR in the QT, just ordinary filtration used in these FW tanks.

Questions:
1. Is QT worth it if i just pan to buy tank-breed livestock, probably from the Drs.?

2. Will the tub serve as QT for the LR, and then I can just put it in my tank after it cycles? Will it cycle again after I put it in the DT? Maybe silly question, but I don't know.

3. Will a Mini Bow meant for FW fish serve as a QT? I have limited funds so it's either that or a bare bones 10 tank, not the spendy Eclipses or SeaClears. That's all I can find in the size range I want.

4. Is it safe to just cycle the LR in a new DT tank? Will parasites and pests die off during cycling, or do I need to buy a separate tub to be sure?

5. Is it just safer to buy bleached or dry rock to prevent pests?

6. Is it try that only LR that's bought with life on the only one that really works? An article on Reefkeepers Magazine claims that only that kind works because only the small animals like worms inside the pores circulate the water. It claims that dead rock or bleached rock with on it bacteria or coralline algae will not work. What's up with this?

Thanks all.

[wooden_reefer]

Originally Posted by Crawfishy

So I've read up and decided to buy QT tanks, one for live rock, one livestock.


I have a 28g Nano-Cube so I guess I get a 20 gallon rubbermaid tub to cycle and QT the LR, and a 5g Mini Bow to QT the fish and inverts.

Questions:

1. Is QT worth it if i just pan to buy tank-breed livestock?

2. Will the tub serve as QT for the LR, and then I can just put it in my tank after it cycles? Will it cycle again after I put it in the DT? Maybe silly question, but I don't know.

3. Will a Mini Bow meant for FW fish serve as a QT? I have limited funds so it's either that or a bare bones 10 tank, not the spendy Eclipses or SeaClears. That's all I can find in the size range I want.

4. Is it safe to just cycle the LR in a new DT tank? Will parasites and pests die off during cycling, or do I need to buy a separate tub to be sure?

5. Is it just safer to buy bleached or dry rock to prevent pests?

6. Is it try that only LR that's bought with life on the only one that really works? An article on Reefkeepers Magazine claims that only that kind works because only the small animals like worms inside the pores circulate the water. It claims that dead rock or bleached rock with on it bacteria or coralline algae will not work. What's up with this?

Thanks all.

I think if you buy direct from a breeder of fish, you may not need to QT against ich. Buying from a dealer that also sells tank raised fish is different. And, besides ich there can be other concerns.

I suggest that you do not use LR at all for QT of fish. Use a non-calcareous material or crushed coral in well-stretched nylon panty hose.

QT of inverts is generally eight weeks of fishlessness. The concern is generally whether the inverts of question will handle the lack of proper lighting for eight weeks. Most corals cannot, IMO.

[Crawfishy]

Originally Posted by wooden_reefer

I suggest that you do not use LR at all for QT of fish. Use a non-calcareous material or crushed coral in well-stretched nylon panty hose.

I didn't mean to use LR in the QT.. I meant, should I QT the LR meant for the DT before putting it in the DT?

[Plan>B]

Originally Posted by Crawfishy

I didn't mean to use LR in the QT.. I meant, should I QT the LR meant for the DT before putting it in the DT?

If you don't have any thing in the tank... I would cycle the LR in the DT that you are going to use. Now as for your QT... that is way to small. I QT everything.... everything, even from Dr. By the time your LR has cycled, then a few weeks you can add the livestock. 6 weeks is the min amount of time that I QT.

[jenjen]

10 or 20gal bare-bones tank will work well for QT'ing fish - I'd choose that over a 5gal. Just add a filter & basic light and you're ready. I always add a timer for the light in QT so it can match my DT light cycle. I would still QT fish no matter where you get them from. Even if you're not concerned about disease it's an excellent time to get to know your fish, make sure it's eating the variety of foods you offer, and let it get used to your schedule and parameters in a non-competitive environment.

[Plan>B]

Good read....
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-1...ture/index.php

[Raggamuffin]

for a QT I would personally suggest a 20 long or something close they run 20 bucks and like has been said it doesn't have to have much except a filter and some sort of light I do add something for the fish to hide in myself as that tends to make them feel more secure and come out more. a full set up for a QT shouldn't even come close to $100. and remember DO NOT QT corals and fish in the same tank, if you have to medicate fish for some reason and I hope you never do the meds might kill off the corals even if you scrub it out after use for fish. copper and corals/inverts do not go together and copper is in alot of fish meds.

[steelersfan]

Originally Posted by Raggamuffin

for a QT I would personally suggest a 20 long or something close they run 20 bucks and like has been said it doesn't have to have much except a filter and some sort of light I do add something for the fish to hide in myself as that tends to make them feel more secure and come out more. a full set up for a QT shouldn't even come close to $100. and remember DO NOT QT corals and fish in the same tank, if you have to medicate fish for some reason and I hope you never do the meds might kill off the corals even if you scrub it out after use for fish. copper and corals/inverts do not go together and copper is in alot of fish meds.

+1

[Crawfishy]

Thanks, everyone, for your help. Any more comments are welcome.

[Crawfishy]

Bump. More info please, especially about LR. Thanks.

[NirvanaFan]

You can qt the live rock by itself. That way if there is any pests, you can treat it easier. An actual aquarium where you can see into the sides would be best, but a rubbermaid tub will work. All you need to qt (and cycle) rock is a tub, heater and powerhead.

The qt for my 75 gallon tank is a 29 gallon tank. Someone gave me the tank for free. I bought a bunch of pvc elbows, Y, and other pieces. I drilled holes in them and zip tied them together. A heater, a powerhead, and a 4"x4" piece of sponge that had been sitting in my display sump are the only other things added. I think my total cost was something like $40 or something like that. You could get by with a 10 gallon qt probably.

[lordofthereef]

What else do you want to know about the LR?

[Crawfishy]

Originally Posted by lordofthereef

What else do you want to know about the LR?

Is it true that only LR that's bought with life on the only one that really works? An article on Reefkeepers Magazine claims that only that kind works because only the small animals like worms inside the pores circulate the water. It claims that dead rock or bleached rock with on it bacteria or coralline algae will not work. What's up with this?

Reefkeeper magazine article: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-0...ture/index.php

I ask because I'd rather use LR without all the stuff on it to cut down chance of pests but not at the expense of filtration and health and safety of my livestock.

[wooden_reefer]

Originally Posted by Crawfishy

I didn't mean to use LR in the QT.. I meant, should I QT the LR meant for the DT before putting it in the DT?

The same eight weeks of fishlessness if you intend to put recently collected LR into a tank with fish.

I would always allow any unknown source of water to be fishless for eight weeks before adding to a tank with fish.

Also, whenever I add unknown water source to a DT I always use UV. External patheogenic bacteria may also be introduced. I always try to reduce waterborne pathogen concentration.

Incidentally, there may be die-offs in recently collected live rock. After eight weeks in a separate container, the die-off would have come to an end. To preserve as much lives as possible, that separate container should have a very well cycled medium (planned in advance of LR purchase), to limit or entirely prevent ammonia surge in that container due to die-off.