Coast to coast overflow with BeanAnimal drain

blunozdshellbak · 10/24/2009, 08:22 AM

Trying to get an idea of how well the BeanAnimal drains running on a coast to coast wier (60" across the tank) reacts to surge/wavemaker devices, so anybody out there have recommendations for this set up? I have even thought about incorporating a RCSD below the C2C. The tank is a 100g (60"Lx18"Dx24"H) and plan on running ~ 1000gph flow via the return pump. The drains would be 1.5" piping as well. Also the C2C dimensions are 2-3/4"Dx6-3/4"H with the top of the weir ~1" below top of the tank. So realistically I could have a RCSD volume of around 7 gal if I made it the full width of the C2C. Thanks in advance for your help.
Bill

Volcano1 · 10/24/2009, 02:21 PM

This is how my tank was done when I got it.I'm not reusing it, LMK if you want to do something like this.

Hdhuntr01 · 10/24/2009, 07:19 PM

Valcano1 I may be very interested in what you have. Can you describe it for me a little better?

Volcano1 · 10/24/2009, 09:18 PM

Your overflow goes into the middle of the box, it has to go under, over a bubble trap.
The bottom hole goes to your skimmer, you adjust the flow with a gate valve.
If you leave it wide open, all the flow goes to your skimmer.
Close it of and it goes up to the second hole and drains into your sump.
If you run it wide open, and something clogs, it becomes a safety overflow.
I can try and take some pics of the inside ,if that would help.

Hdhuntr01 · 10/25/2009, 03:15 AM

How much do you want for it plus shipping to zip code 39525? I am thinking I can possibly make it work for the 150G tank I have set up.

blunozdshellbak · 10/25/2009, 05:04 AM

I really appreciate the offer there Volcano1, but unfortunately it would not work on my tank (my tank is not an in wall and the back sides of the stand will be flush with the sides of the tank as it transitions from the stand up to the canopy. Once I get started with that stand I will post a thread on the build as it progresses. The stand is being built deeper than the tank to allow for the sump I plan on using. I am closing off the area behind the tank with a transition piece that goes from the stand up to the canopy to help hide the plumbing, wiring, etc as well as not make the tank look weird with a gap behind it. It is an interesting setup and I am glad you explained how the bos portion works (I assume that the upper pipe coming out of the right side is the line that goes to you sump?) Anyhow, I am glad that it looks like Hdhuntr may be interested in it though,

.

I am just curious as to how these setups react to a wavemaker/surge? Will it take some serious tuning to get it balanced or am I just overthinking this one?

BeanAnimal · 10/25/2009, 08:18 AM

They system is very self adjusting. However, for large surges you will want to consider a few extra details.

1) Make the open channel drain as large as you can accomodate. This will help pick up the slack during the peak of the surge.

2) Set the open channel weir (hole and bulkhead if through the back, or elbow height if through the bottom) slightly higher than the siphon weir. This will ensre that the siphon stays covered during the dynamic flow conditions.

3) For high volume surge devices, consider a SECOND open channel standpipe with its weir set slightly higher than that of the first open channel. This will give even more bandwidth to the system and allow it to stay quiet during the high flow surge.

blunozdshellbak · 10/25/2009, 08:30 AM

Thanks a ton for the help, I will be sure to post as the build comes along!

R/
Bill

BeanAnimal · 10/25/2009, 09:04 AM

Welocme...

Good luck with the build!

Volcano1 · 10/26/2009, 02:19 PM

Hdhuntr,

I'll check and PM.

10/24/2009, 08:22 AM	#1
blunozdshellbak Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: MCAS Iwakuni, Japan Posts: 28	Coast to coast overflow with BeanAnimal drain Trying to get an idea of how well the BeanAnimal drains running on a coast to coast wier (60" across the tank) reacts to surge/wavemaker devices, so anybody out there have recommendations for this set up? I have even thought about incorporating a RCSD below the C2C. The tank is a 100g (60"Lx18"Dx24"H) and plan on running ~ 1000gph flow via the return pump. The drains would be 1.5" piping as well. Also the C2C dimensions are 2-3/4"Dx6-3/4"H with the top of the weir ~1" below top of the tank. So realistically I could have a RCSD volume of around 7 gal if I made it the full width of the C2C. Thanks in advance for your help. Bill

10/24/2009, 07:19 PM	#3
Hdhuntr01 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Woolmarket, MS Posts: 395	Valcano1 I may be very interested in what you have. Can you describe it for me a little better? __________________ Red Sea Reefer 750XXL, Four Radion Pro's, NYOS Skimmer, APEX, Two EcoTech MP40QD and some other goodies. Current Tank Info: Red Sea Reefer 750XXL

10/25/2009, 03:15 AM	#5
Hdhuntr01 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Woolmarket, MS Posts: 395	How much do you want for it plus shipping to zip code 39525? I am thinking I can possibly make it work for the 150G tank I have set up. __________________ Red Sea Reefer 750XXL, Four Radion Pro's, NYOS Skimmer, APEX, Two EcoTech MP40QD and some other goodies. Current Tank Info: Red Sea Reefer 750XXL

10/24/2009, 02:21 PM	#2
Volcano1 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: North Central Illinois. Posts: 1,233	This is how my tank was done when I got it.I'm not reusing it, LMK if you want to do something like this.

10/24/2009, 09:18 PM	#4
Volcano1 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: North Central Illinois. Posts: 1,233	Your overflow goes into the middle of the box, it has to go under, over a bubble trap. The bottom hole goes to your skimmer, you adjust the flow with a gate valve. If you leave it wide open, all the flow goes to your skimmer. Close it of and it goes up to the second hole and drains into your sump. If you run it wide open, and something clogs, it becomes a safety overflow. I can try and take some pics of the inside ,if that would help.

10/25/2009, 05:04 AM	#6
blunozdshellbak Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: MCAS Iwakuni, Japan Posts: 28	I really appreciate the offer there Volcano1, but unfortunately it would not work on my tank (my tank is not an in wall and the back sides of the stand will be flush with the sides of the tank as it transitions from the stand up to the canopy. Once I get started with that stand I will post a thread on the build as it progresses. The stand is being built deeper than the tank to allow for the sump I plan on using. I am closing off the area behind the tank with a transition piece that goes from the stand up to the canopy to help hide the plumbing, wiring, etc as well as not make the tank look weird with a gap behind it. It is an interesting setup and I am glad you explained how the bos portion works (I assume that the upper pipe coming out of the right side is the line that goes to you sump?) Anyhow, I am glad that it looks like Hdhuntr may be interested in it though, . I am just curious as to how these setups react to a wavemaker/surge? Will it take some serious tuning to get it balanced or am I just overthinking this one?

10/25/2009, 08:18 AM	#7
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	They system is very self adjusting. However, for large surges you will want to consider a few extra details. 1) Make the open channel drain as large as you can accomodate. This will help pick up the slack during the peak of the surge. 2) Set the open channel weir (hole and bulkhead if through the back, or elbow height if through the bottom) slightly higher than the siphon weir. This will ensre that the siphon stays covered during the dynamic flow conditions. 3) For high volume surge devices, consider a SECOND open channel standpipe with its weir set slightly higher than that of the first open channel. This will give even more bandwidth to the system and allow it to stay quiet during the high flow surge.

10/25/2009, 08:30 AM	#8
blunozdshellbak Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: MCAS Iwakuni, Japan Posts: 28	Thanks a ton for the help, I will be sure to post as the build comes along! R/ Bill

10/25/2009, 09:04 AM	#9
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	Welocme... Good luck with the build!

10/26/2009, 02:19 PM	#10
Volcano1 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: North Central Illinois. Posts: 1,233	Hdhuntr, I'll check and PM.