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View Poll Results: Which would be better in a refugium with chaeto? Liverock rubble or coral sand? | |||
Liverock rubble | 23 | 67.65% | |
Coral sand | 11 | 32.35% | |
Voters: 34. You may not vote on this poll |
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11/14/2009, 10:27 PM | #1 |
Moved On
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Which would be better in a refugium with chaeto? Liverock rubble or coral sand?
This is for nutrient export, growing pods, an emerald crab or two, and maybe some bristle worms to help eat detritus.
I read that pods like rock rubble to lay their eggs on. And of course the substrate is also for providing minerals and buffering water as it dissolves. Any and all opinions and experiences are welcome. The tank is for fish and mixed reef with a heavy bioload. |
11/14/2009, 10:35 PM | #2 |
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The substrate won't provide any minerals or buffering, but it can be a place for animals to grow. If it's a refugium, I'd leave out the crabs, since they'll prey on the animals you're trying to grow. I didn't use any substrate in my refugium, to make it easy to maintain, but fine sand is okay. A bit of live rock might help with filtration. I don't think the substrate makes much difference unless you want to grow plants or algae that require one.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
11/14/2009, 10:42 PM | #3 |
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If you can't decide put the rubble and sand in there. Thats how a lot of refugiums are anyways..
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11/15/2009, 04:51 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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11/15/2009, 05:42 PM | #5 |
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i hv chaeto, mangroves, live rock, live sand, and agrogate sand on the bottom.
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11/15/2009, 07:09 PM | #6 |
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Some species of animal might prefer a live rock habitat, but it'd be hard to know what exactly is in our systems. I grew a lot of small animals in Chaetomorpha with no troubles, though.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
11/15/2009, 07:23 PM | #7 |
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i'm running both in mine
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11/15/2009, 07:39 PM | #8 |
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Try not to have to rely on a refuge? Algae growth is good, don't get me wrong, but it's just something that really shouldn't be in play. Sort of a bandaid IMO. Especially when your using RO/DI. Something's off.
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11/15/2009, 08:50 PM | #9 |
You could get a ticket!!
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For nutrient export think about a DSB if your fuge is deep enough. And of course the cheato.
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Try to keep in mind that we are all human...mistakes do happen! Be kinder than necessary because every one you meet is fighting some kind of battle. Current Tank Info: 40 breeder - started 9/2011 - platinum perc and sanjay's black photon clownfishes; sps and lps, and soft corals; 250w MH, 20 long sump w Bubble Magus Nac 3.5 skimmer 12g nano cube -serpent star, mini carpet anemones, w 6 sexy shrimp, 150w MH, maxi je |
11/15/2009, 09:01 PM | #10 |
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I have a DSB, Live Rock/Rubble, and chaeto in my fuge...seems to work well enough.
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11/21/2009, 06:30 PM | #11 |
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Now I'm thinking of two fuges. One with just chaeto and one with MM. I'd also like to raise sexy shrimp to feed some dwarf morays.
Last edited by powers2001; 11/21/2009 at 06:31 PM. Reason: spelling |
11/21/2009, 09:37 PM | #12 |
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Is Southdown play sand that once was so popular, non-calcareous?
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11/21/2009, 09:54 PM | #13 |
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fwiw, i tried the rubble rock in my cheato tub. it became a serious maintenance issue. nothing collects crap like rubble and coarse sand for me.
SO, considering that you say this is for nutrient export, IMO, skip the nutrient sink.
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11/21/2009, 10:31 PM | #14 |
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both if you can. Every system should have an area with some detritus in it. It's un-natural to have water with no wastes in it. Just make sure it doesn't build all too much.
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11/22/2009, 01:05 AM | #15 |
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Sand or mud would be better for burrowing animals and lr rubble would be good for sessile animals like sponges.
I guess I just answered a lot of my own question.
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01/26/2010, 05:59 PM | #16 |
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The debate is settled. I'm using live sand.
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01/26/2010, 11:25 PM | #17 |
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I stacked some strawberry baskets zip tied together full of live rock rubble in my 55g DSB fuge. With in a short time the stack was covered in tons of pods, its like a pod condo! The baskets help keep the rubble together and from sinking in the sand.
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01/29/2010, 05:38 PM | #18 |
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What depth of substrate is needed for red mangroves?
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01/29/2010, 05:54 PM | #19 |
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Like Bertoni, I have no substrate in my fuge. Makes maintenance a whole lot easier.
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I feel more like myself now than I did before. Current Tank Info: 120g mixed reef, 2 x 250W DE MH, 2 x 54w T5, MSX 200 SKimmer, 2 Koralia 4's, 40g fuge/sump, QT |
01/31/2010, 07:53 PM | #20 |
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I'm not sure, but I'd guess at least a few inches. They are plants, and need some space for roots. I don't know of a good site for instructions.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
02/01/2010, 09:38 AM | #21 |
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I'd shoot for at least 4" if you want to try Mangroves. You CAN keep them in less, if you let the root structure start growing out and then attach them to a rock or something. It takes some time, but you can achieve the same look as you see in many Bonsai Tree displays, where a portion of the root structure is exposed above the soil.
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A new beginning........... JIM Current Tank Info: 5g standard softie/zoa tank, just starting a 20H |
02/01/2010, 03:17 PM | #22 |
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Growing Red Mangroves:
1. The growth tip, (the very top of the green portion of the seed), must be above the water line. They can be placed in a shallow fuge, sump or nano. If you don't use one of these, push the propagule half way through a piece of styrofoam, until green half is fully through the top portion of the styrofoam, and the red portion is hanging underneath the styrofoam. Alternatively, you can bunch the mangroves together with rubberbands, and add a stick, or similarly shaped object to go lengthwise across the opening in the hood of your tank to hold the mangroves out of the water. We bunch them and place them in front of the heater to cover it up, and make the tank look more natural. 2. Add light strong enough to grow macroalgae, or a grow light. You can get these at home depot. 3. Heat. Mangroves like warm temperatures, try to keep them in a room that is at regularly 70 degrees or warmer for best results. 4. MIsting. Even though red mangroves exlcude the majority of the salt in the water, they should be regularly misted to prevent salt buldup.
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