Help!! Ive just discovered zoanthid eatin nudis!!

joshrules123456 · 11/26/2009, 11:52 AM

What do I do??!!!

kimber45 · 11/26/2009, 09:56 PM

get dippin..

joshrules123456 · 11/26/2009, 10:42 PM

bump

Korrine · 11/26/2009, 10:51 PM

remove the Zoanthids to a quarantine tank, remove all the Nudibranchs by hand(or dipping...I use revive) and also find and scrape off all the eggs

jeremyreef · 11/27/2009, 02:06 PM

also dipping zoas in salifert flatworm exit kills them, but all eggs need to be removed manually

joshrules123456 · 11/28/2009, 01:41 AM

Ive heard revive doesnt work, anyone else seen it work? Ive got some for my stonies and I'll give it a try, are there any specialized dips for the nudis?

brifirst · 11/28/2009, 07:28 AM

Flat Worm Exit.

mfinn · 11/28/2009, 10:33 AM

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=451720

joshrules123456 · 11/28/2009, 10:49 AM

ok then, Ima get some lugol's and fwe as soon as possible!!

stpauli914 · 11/28/2009, 05:00 PM

I just dipped a bunch of my zoas in revive when I too discovered nudis on them. I don't know how long to leave them in the dip, but I did it for about 2 minutes agitating constantly. There were 5 or 6 of the nudis in the solution still alive 10 minutes later.

mfinn · 11/28/2009, 05:19 PM

Your best bet on killing the nudibranchs is still the freshwater dip and lugols iodine, IMO.

geoxman · 11/29/2009, 03:29 PM

or tincture and tap water. Tincture is cheaper and tap has a higher PH than RO and a little chlorine never did any damage to my polyps. It is also easier to see the eggs under actinic only or a black light. They look like this @ but white. JMHO
mfinn pm sent

teesquare · 11/29/2009, 04:06 PM

Absolutely the freswater dip and Lugols - or tincture. Both are iodine. The tapwater is one I had not tried - but I would not be afraid of it. Just the temps close to the tank they are in first - lessens the shock and stress that they are going to dealing with during treatment.
Best of luck!
T

mfinn · 11/29/2009, 04:55 PM

I like to adjust the PH of the freshwater to that of the tank water as MUCHO reccomened in his thread.

brifirst · 11/29/2009, 05:14 PM

Coris wrasse

teesquare · 11/29/2009, 05:18 PM

I used to think PH adjustment was very important - but the treatment is short term, and the zoos hold so much water that they came from - I have never seen it truly make a difference to teh zooanthids, or other soft corals.
Additionally the ph difference may help to further shock/parasitic bugs that you are trying to get rid of. They will react faster to the different chemistry of the water than will zoos.
Bear in mind that most to the zooznthids come from near shore, lagoons and similar, and they are subject to dirty water that varies in salinity and PH quite often due to rain and run-off.

brifirst...WHICH Coris? Coris is a genus of wrasses of which there are many different members.....
T

cfw1199 · 11/30/2009, 11:51 AM

FWE...I just got rid of them...and my God what a chore....It has taken me 10 bottles of FWE and been free now for about 3 weeks. It would have taken less but I didn't stay on top of them and if you give them an inch they will take a football field. They are terrible. I couldn't pull all of mine out as I had about 65 frags....Just nuked the hole tank with copious amounts of FWE and they are finally gone....only lost one colony before I found them. You have to do it almost twice a week. The FWE kills them almost instantly in high doses but doesn't touch the eggs. Not sure of the gestational period of these guys but I used a 3rd of a bottle three times a week for almost 2 months and they are now gone. I never saw any eggs but I didn't look real hard either. I just turned off the reactors and dumped it in. You can get rid of them but it will take some work. Main thing is to stay completely on top of the treatment to get the eggs as soon as they hatch if you don't want to dip and scrape......

joshrules123456 · 11/30/2009, 06:40 PM

I love my inverts, so nukeing my tank with fwe doesnt seem like and option. How long does it take to die off if I remove my zoas?

cfw1199 · 11/30/2009, 06:48 PM

FWE doesn't hurt the inverts at all........Never even know it's there.....that's interceptor.......FWE will never ever hurt an invert....well it might if you dump 6 bottles in at once....never tried it...they have nothing to do with each other....trust me and listen...it will work...but diligence is the key...i have 7 peppermint shrimp as well.....at at the last time I counted and 20 hermits.....will not touch an invert..now if you have a flatworm problems you will need to take more evasive measures to stop the release of the toxin they let off...but zoa nudis to my knowledge don't release any and I personally like to see the SOB's float down the overflow.....you will be fine trust me......I have way to much invested in this stuff to make this up. Do the research it will show you....Mucho you have the link show him. GOOD LUCK....They suck....revive and a prayer and a lugols dip from now on....NO MORE OF THESE THINGS......fingers crossed I get no more ever ever ever ever again

1DeR9_3Hy · 11/30/2009, 08:06 PM

CoralRX claims to work on them i beleive, and its all natural. Ive been using it for 2 weeks for all sorts of things and ive been really happy with the results so far (it looks like a invert holocaust when i pull the frags from the dip bucket lol...).

NaH2Ofreak · 12/01/2009, 12:02 AM

cfw1199, the way you describe doing it seems like the best route. I would like to know however, what is so much work. I mean, you dump a third of the bottle in three times a week for 2 months. What is so laborious about that? Do you have to do a 25% water change after each time you add a bottle? Just not getting the "my God what a chore".

Thanks
Dennis

cfw1199 · 12/01/2009, 07:57 AM

I probably overstated the "what a chore" in reference to the actual work. The what a chore is getting rid of them. The multiply so fast it's ridiculous and they can demolish a zoa colony at an astonishing rate. It's almost unbelievable until you actually see it. I just wasn't as diligent at first about adding the FWE three times a week and would kill what was living and then forget about it and a week later I had two times as many. I never did a water change at all. Just kept the reactor full of fresh carbon every week.

joshrules123456 · 12/01/2009, 08:43 AM

well, that sounds like I need fwe then, Id still like to know how long they take to die without food though.

cfw1199 · 12/01/2009, 09:13 AM

I have no earthly idea......Didn't want to try and find out

11/26/2009, 11:52 AM	#1
joshrules123456 josh dimichele Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: akron, ohio Posts: 199	Help!! Ive just discovered zoanthid eatin nudis!! What do I do??!!! __________________ basting, it worked for me, and it can work for you!! Current Tank Info: 53 gallon vho(uri 454, uri 75.25) mixed system, (23 gallon sump: 18 gallon tub w/ vodka,kalk drip, asm g4, 10 gallon fuge with a giant ball of chaeto and 3" sand bed) 800 gph total flow. 10 gallon sps graveyard.

11/26/2009, 10:42 PM	#3
joshrules123456 josh dimichele Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: akron, ohio Posts: 199	bump __________________ basting, it worked for me, and it can work for you!! Current Tank Info: 53 gallon vho(uri 454, uri 75.25) mixed system, (23 gallon sump: 18 gallon tub w/ vodka,kalk drip, asm g4, 10 gallon fuge with a giant ball of chaeto and 3" sand bed) 800 gph total flow. 10 gallon sps graveyard.

11/26/2009, 10:51 PM	#4
Korrine You could get a ticket!! Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Upper midwest Posts: 4,288 Blog Entries: 1	remove the Zoanthids to a quarantine tank, remove all the Nudibranchs by hand(or dipping...I use revive) and also find and scrape off all the eggs __________________ Try to keep in mind that we are all human...mistakes do happen! Be kinder than necessary because every one you meet is fighting some kind of battle. Current Tank Info: 40 breeder - started 9/2011 - platinum perc and sanjay's black photon clownfishes; sps and lps, and soft corals; 250w MH, 20 long sump w Bubble Magus Nac 3.5 skimmer 12g nano cube -serpent star, mini carpet anemones, w 6 sexy shrimp, 150w MH, maxi je

11/28/2009, 01:41 AM	#6
joshrules123456 josh dimichele Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: akron, ohio Posts: 199	Ive heard revive doesnt work, anyone else seen it work? Ive got some for my stonies and I'll give it a try, are there any specialized dips for the nudis? __________________ basting, it worked for me, and it can work for you!! Current Tank Info: 53 gallon vho(uri 454, uri 75.25) mixed system, (23 gallon sump: 18 gallon tub w/ vodka,kalk drip, asm g4, 10 gallon fuge with a giant ball of chaeto and 3" sand bed) 800 gph total flow. 10 gallon sps graveyard.

11/28/2009, 07:28 AM	#7
brifirst Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LI, NY Posts: 73	Flat Worm Exit. __________________ B.1st Current Tank Info: 110 Reef

11/26/2009, 09:56 PM	#2
kimber45 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: michigan Posts: 455	get dippin..

11/27/2009, 02:06 PM	#5
jeremyreef Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: ohio Posts: 91	also dipping zoas in salifert flatworm exit kills them, but all eggs need to be removed manually

11/28/2009, 10:33 AM	#8
mfinn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Olympia. WA. Posts: 8,648	http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=451720

11/28/2009, 10:49 AM	#9
joshrules123456 josh dimichele Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: akron, ohio Posts: 199	ok then, Ima get some lugol's and fwe as soon as possible!! __________________ basting, it worked for me, and it can work for you!! Current Tank Info: 53 gallon vho(uri 454, uri 75.25) mixed system, (23 gallon sump: 18 gallon tub w/ vodka,kalk drip, asm g4, 10 gallon fuge with a giant ball of chaeto and 3" sand bed) 800 gph total flow. 10 gallon sps graveyard.

11/28/2009, 05:00 PM	#10
stpauli914 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Clearwater/Dunedin Posts: 1,990	I just dipped a bunch of my zoas in revive when I too discovered nudis on them. I don't know how long to leave them in the dip, but I did it for about 2 minutes agitating constantly. There were 5 or 6 of the nudis in the solution still alive 10 minutes later. __________________ Thanks Reef Central!!! Current Tank Info: 240 Gallon Mixed Reef Miracles Custom 72x30x25 Starfire, COR20 RD3 80W, BK Alpha 200, MP40QD's, Radion G4 Pros * 80 Gallon Deep Blue Rimless SPS Dominant 48x24x16 Starfire, RD5 ECO, BK Mini 160, MP40QD's, Radion Gen4 Pros* Apex Controlled

11/28/2009, 05:19 PM	#11
mfinn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Olympia. WA. Posts: 8,648	Your best bet on killing the nudibranchs is still the freshwater dip and lugols iodine, IMO.

11/29/2009, 03:29 PM	#12
geoxman Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: in my office Posts: 3,848	or tincture and tap water. Tincture is cheaper and tap has a higher PH than RO and a little chlorine never did any damage to my polyps. It is also easier to see the eggs under actinic only or a black light. They look like this @ but white. JMHO mfinn pm sent __________________ "Why do you necessarily have to be wrong just because a few million people think you are?" F-Zappa Current Tank Info: an ice cube tray with brine shrimp in each cubicle

11/29/2009, 04:06 PM	#13
teesquare Coral Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: western NC Posts: 1,663	Absolutely the freswater dip and Lugols - or tincture. Both are iodine. The tapwater is one I had not tried - but I would not be afraid of it. Just the temps close to the tank they are in first - lessens the shock and stress that they are going to dealing with during treatment. Best of luck! T __________________ No....really honey, it was a gift! Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system

11/29/2009, 04:55 PM	#14
mfinn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Olympia. WA. Posts: 8,648	I like to adjust the PH of the freshwater to that of the tank water as MUCHO reccomened in his thread.

11/29/2009, 05:14 PM	#15
brifirst Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LI, NY Posts: 73	Coris wrasse __________________ B.1st Current Tank Info: 110 Reef

11/29/2009, 05:18 PM	#16
teesquare Coral Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: western NC Posts: 1,663	I used to think PH adjustment was very important - but the treatment is short term, and the zoos hold so much water that they came from - I have never seen it truly make a difference to teh zooanthids, or other soft corals. Additionally the ph difference may help to further shock/parasitic bugs that you are trying to get rid of. They will react faster to the different chemistry of the water than will zoos. Bear in mind that most to the zooznthids come from near shore, lagoons and similar, and they are subject to dirty water that varies in salinity and PH quite often due to rain and run-off. brifirst...WHICH Coris? Coris is a genus of wrasses of which there are many different members..... T __________________ No....really honey, it was a gift! Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system

11/30/2009, 11:51 AM	#17
cfw1199 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Colonial Heights, Virginia Posts: 560	FWE...I just got rid of them...and my God what a chore....It has taken me 10 bottles of FWE and been free now for about 3 weeks. It would have taken less but I didn't stay on top of them and if you give them an inch they will take a football field. They are terrible. I couldn't pull all of mine out as I had about 65 frags....Just nuked the hole tank with copious amounts of FWE and they are finally gone....only lost one colony before I found them. You have to do it almost twice a week. The FWE kills them almost instantly in high doses but doesn't touch the eggs. Not sure of the gestational period of these guys but I used a 3rd of a bottle three times a week for almost 2 months and they are now gone. I never saw any eggs but I didn't look real hard either. I just turned off the reactors and dumped it in. You can get rid of them but it will take some work. Main thing is to stay completely on top of the treatment to get the eggs as soon as they hatch if you don't want to dip and scrape......

11/30/2009, 06:40 PM	#18
joshrules123456 josh dimichele Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: akron, ohio Posts: 199	I love my inverts, so nukeing my tank with fwe doesnt seem like and option. How long does it take to die off if I remove my zoas? __________________ basting, it worked for me, and it can work for you!! Current Tank Info: 53 gallon vho(uri 454, uri 75.25) mixed system, (23 gallon sump: 18 gallon tub w/ vodka,kalk drip, asm g4, 10 gallon fuge with a giant ball of chaeto and 3" sand bed) 800 gph total flow. 10 gallon sps graveyard.

11/30/2009, 06:48 PM	#19
cfw1199 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Colonial Heights, Virginia Posts: 560	FWE doesn't hurt the inverts at all........Never even know it's there.....that's interceptor.......FWE will never ever hurt an invert....well it might if you dump 6 bottles in at once....never tried it...they have nothing to do with each other....trust me and listen...it will work...but diligence is the key...i have 7 peppermint shrimp as well.....at at the last time I counted and 20 hermits.....will not touch an invert..now if you have a flatworm problems you will need to take more evasive measures to stop the release of the toxin they let off...but zoa nudis to my knowledge don't release any and I personally like to see the SOB's float down the overflow.....you will be fine trust me......I have way to much invested in this stuff to make this up. Do the research it will show you....Mucho you have the link show him. GOOD LUCK....They suck....revive and a prayer and a lugols dip from now on....NO MORE OF THESE THINGS......fingers crossed I get no more ever ever ever ever again Last edited by cfw1199; 11/30/2009 at 06:56 PM.

11/30/2009, 08:06 PM	#20
1DeR9_3Hy Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,575	CoralRX claims to work on them i beleive, and its all natural. Ive been using it for 2 weeks for all sorts of things and ive been really happy with the results so far (it looks like a invert holocaust when i pull the frags from the dip bucket lol...).

12/01/2009, 12:02 AM	#21
NaH2Ofreak Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 1,468	cfw1199, the way you describe doing it seems like the best route. I would like to know however, what is so much work. I mean, you dump a third of the bottle in three times a week for 2 months. What is so laborious about that? Do you have to do a 25% water change after each time you add a bottle? Just not getting the "my God what a chore". Thanks Dennis

12/01/2009, 07:57 AM	#22
cfw1199 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Colonial Heights, Virginia Posts: 560	I probably overstated the "what a chore" in reference to the actual work. The what a chore is getting rid of them. The multiply so fast it's ridiculous and they can demolish a zoa colony at an astonishing rate. It's almost unbelievable until you actually see it. I just wasn't as diligent at first about adding the FWE three times a week and would kill what was living and then forget about it and a week later I had two times as many. I never did a water change at all. Just kept the reactor full of fresh carbon every week.

12/01/2009, 08:43 AM	#23
joshrules123456 josh dimichele Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: akron, ohio Posts: 199	well, that sounds like I need fwe then, Id still like to know how long they take to die without food though. __________________ basting, it worked for me, and it can work for you!! Current Tank Info: 53 gallon vho(uri 454, uri 75.25) mixed system, (23 gallon sump: 18 gallon tub w/ vodka,kalk drip, asm g4, 10 gallon fuge with a giant ball of chaeto and 3" sand bed) 800 gph total flow. 10 gallon sps graveyard.

12/01/2009, 09:13 AM	#24
cfw1199 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Colonial Heights, Virginia Posts: 560	I have no earthly idea......Didn't want to try and find out