17 gal rimless sps build

[rick88]

Im setting up a new rimless build, the tanks are from Greenleaf aquariums the display is aprox 17 gallons and the sump tank is 11 gallons. I have a vortech mp20, and an ATI sunpower 4 bulb fixture . Im looking for input on what type of skimmer i should get, i want to get a cone but im not sure if there is a small enough one out.(maybe the guys at iTech could rig something). I am going with a nano so that i can afford all the things that i want for the tank, so any oppinions on dosing pumps, ato's, controllers, sump design, and plumbing styles would be appreciated. thanks



-rick

[cchase231]

what are the dimensions of the sump? at 11 gallons it will be hard to find a cone that will fit. I would look into a warner marine H1 or H2, you could hang it outside the sump so you will have more area to work with. For dosing pumps, I have a profilux and have been very happy with it, I have also heard great things about the liter meters, but have never used one. The liter meter also has and optional top off unit. I dont use and nver have used a controller. But I guess it depends what you want to do with it when deciding which one to get. The profilux units seem very cool, but are pricey, the new apex and rke seem very popular.

[Johnny C]

Sounds like the beginning of a very promising setup!

IMO, no... you absolutely do not need any kind of a cone skimmer on a tank <30G. At the VERY most, a Bubble Magus or Octopus (smaller model) will do you great. As for the other equipment; go with a LMIII for dosing/topoff. I personally run an ACJR and it works well for me. Sump design all depends on your eqipment and stand dimensions. HTH, GL.

[rick88]

the sump is 48cmx30cmx30cm, im thinking of trying a cryptic zone v.s a fuge, any experience with aquamedics dosing pumps?

CaliDreaminjC- thanks, ill look into those skimmers i wish ATB would just make a baby cone ha! would a controller be somewhat pointless on a small system i would like to monitor and control temp and ph as well as my photo period.

[rick88]

does the LMIII only come equiped with 1 dosing pump?
anyone have experience with GrotecIII or aquamedic dosing pumps

[rick88]

pics are soon to come ive got to build a stand first :/ anyone have experience working with formica? the stand is going to be ADA styled............................................. check out Greeneafaquariums.com there tanks are awesome as close as you can get to ADA without paying so much for shipping the quality is great german made tanks. Te owner Orlando is great on customer service

[dan10342]

Originally Posted by CaliDreaminjC

Sounds like the beginning of a very promising setup!

plus 1! cant wait to see what happens!

[rick88]

thanks dan

that was greenleafaquariums.com my bad

[boehm742]

Excited to see this!

[rick88]

went to pick up the tank today and saw the 33 gal they had and might just have to upgrade before i startall this its 24x18x18 needless to say i left empty handed , what do yall think?????????

[Chiefsurfer]

if you can swing the few extra bucks, go 33/17

[rick88]

im wondering if the vortech will rock a good wave in the 33 though, i wont have much rock in the tank but still im confident in it doing its job on the 17 but not sure about doubling the water :/

[floridazooguy]

greenleafaquariums.com is that pre drilled?

[rick88]

no im going to drill the back panel for overflow and maybe a 1/2 seaswirl for return like the old japanese systems

[james3370]

Originally Posted by rick88

would a controller be somewhat pointless on a small system i would like to monitor and control temp and ph as well as my photo period.

the 2 absolute most important things for a health tank (& a nano ESPECIALLY) are stable ph & stable salinity.......

ph can be kept more stable by having cheato on a reverse photoperiod....on when main lights out & off when main lights on. the reason is that when the lights go out, the life in the tank (corals, algae, etc) quits phosenthisizing (which uses c02), so co2 levels will rise causing the ph to drop. if you have cheato on a reverse schedule, then the system as a whole never has a dark period, so the ph tends to be alot more stable

salinity fluctuation is caused mostly from naturally occuring water evaporation. as the water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind increasing the salinity content of the water. to combat this, you put an ATO to top-off fresh water

since a nano has a much lower water volume than a std size tank, small changes in either salinity or ph are quite common & can be detrimental to the inhabitants. a controller isn't absolutely necessary, but can make monitoring & managing/rectifying these conditions ALOT easier.

another thing that alot of people overlook when deciding to goto just simple wall timers for their lights thinking they don't need the controller is the heater. they are NOTORIOUS for failing & when they do, murphy's law says it will fail in the ON setting....which will cook a small tank in no time. but if you plug the heater into a controlled plug of a controller & make a simple code that says "if temp is greater then X-degreess, then turn heater off". it will cut the power to that plug making it impossible for the heater to cook the tank. can also do similar codes for the lights in case they are on & the temps get too high....can't really do that w/ a simple on/off wall timer

[james3370]

for ATO look into one of the following:

*www.autotopoff.com - pre-asembled kits. just need to add the ato pump
*www.aquahub.com - pretty much same as above, but you assemble them. they are cheaper since you do the assembly LOL

the aqualifter pump is a very commonly used ato pump & avail from either site listed above

for dosing pump(s), i can say i've never used 1 before, but along w/ the ones mentioned above, i heard very good things about the ones from Bulk Reef Supply & they are CONSIDERABLY cheaper than the litemeter

[cherubfish pair]

Originally Posted by james3370

for ATO look into one of the following:
the aqualifter pump is a very commonly used ato pump & avail from either site listed above

Hey James, have you seen those special holders they sell for the aqualifter? It lets you hang it on the side of the top-off water tank. I can't remember where I've seen them for sale. I thought maybe you know where I can get them.

[james3370]

Originally Posted by cherubfish pair

Hey James, have you seen those special holders they sell for the aqualifter? It lets you hang it on the side of the top-off water tank. I can't remember where I've seen them for sale. I thought maybe you know where I can get them.

i think the pump comes w/ some L-clamps for that purpose. if not, maybe give the guys at bulk reef supply a call...they are the shiznit LOL

[Johnny C]

Originally Posted by james3370

i think the pump comes w/ some L-clamps for that purpose. if not, maybe give the guys at bulk reef supply a call...they are the shiznit LOL

You thought wrong! JK. I'm interested to find one now, lmk if you source it!

Rick- Do yourself a favor and DEF go with the 33.5g system. Yes, the MP10 can handle it fine.

[rick88]

wow thanks james i never knew why people used the reverse photoperiod for their refugiums ill be sure to do that. and thanks for the links.

yeah Cali i think your right the 33 is going to probably work out the best im going to look at them again tomorrow and will hopefully pick one up so stay tuned everyone for a preview!!!!

[rick88]

btw any one used a seaswirl ive heard mixed reviews but my lfs uses them on a massive sps system with no problems.

[james3370]

Originally Posted by rick88

btw any one used a seaswirl ive heard mixed reviews but my lfs uses them on a massive sps system with no problems.

the vortech you have will give more than enough randomized flow in either the 17 or 33

[Chiefsurfer]

Hey james, seems like you sure do know a lot about this, and I don't mean to hijack the thread, but i think ill try and pick your brain a bit about some things you said here.

I intend(ed?) on not using a refugium, really just don't feel like it(honestly). But reading your bit about PH fluctuation makes me think about it. Is there any other way you can pull CO2 from your tank? Like by adding O2? I know that won't pull CO2 from it, but maybe equalize oxygen and co2 stabilizing the ph? Also, I most-likely will not do a ATO, it's a 20 gallon tall, with T5's, and a full lid, meaning(in my estimation) I will not have a lot of evap, and can what little water is needed from a plastic cup and my 5 gallon bucket that will always have near 5 gallons RO/DI water. Will this be efficient in keeping salinity problems at bay if i do it 2x a day(before and after work)?

Thank you for the help.

[james3370]

Originally Posted by Chiefsurfer

Hey james, seems like you sure do know a lot about this, and I don't mean to hijack the thread, but i think ill try and pick your brain a bit about some things you said here.

I intend(ed?) on not using a refugium, really just don't feel like it(honestly). But reading your bit about PH fluctuation makes me think about it. Is there any other way you can pull CO2 from your tank? Like by adding O2? I know that won't pull CO2 from it, but maybe equalize oxygen and co2 stabilizing the ph? Also, I most-likely will not do a ATO, it's a 20 gallon tall, with T5's, and a full lid, meaning(in my estimation) I will not have a lot of evap, and can what little water is needed from a plastic cup and my 5 gallon bucket that will always have near 5 gallons RO/DI water. Will this be efficient in keeping salinity problems at bay if i do it 2x a day(before and after work)?

Thank you for the help.

really, all i "know" just comes from reading LOL

what alot of people do is take one of the hang on the back filters & modify it for just cheato....the "poor mans refugium" LOL

here's some links to read up on
http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...r+110+refugium

don't know about injecting o2....don't think that'd be any benefit. there are other methods of combatting the co2 buildup, but i prefer a simpler approach. to me, having a bunch of equipment is counter-productive.

as far as topping off, doing it manually or w/ an ATO achieves the same thing....keeps the salinity stable. to me the $50-75 spent on an ato kit & pump to automate the process is worth it versus the aggravation of having to do it all the time (&/or forgetting), but i guess it's up to you on that point..... LOL

[sue711]

James3370, what controller do you use for your heaters? I have a 100w and a 50w for my 30 gallons, and I am thinking of getting a controller.