RO system

reefkeeperaxm · 11/30/2009, 02:39 PM

I've never had one, and i'm going to ask someone to intsall one for me. My question is; I have this system:

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1...er_75_GPD.html

If I buy one of these:

http://www.airwaterice.com/category/2.tanks_pressure/

Will I be able to split the output from the RO unit, one to my float valve on the top off in sump and the other to the pressure tank? Will I need anything else to do that?

chow · 11/30/2009, 03:04 PM

I think so

reefkeeperaxm · 11/30/2009, 03:06 PM

That's a great response lol, as a matter of fact all 6 of them are.

bertoni · 11/30/2009, 08:11 PM

I don't think it'll be that easy to split the output automatically, since both sides would have to be equally pressurized to distribute the water evenly, etc. I'd install a T valve and switch between the two by hand, or use separate filters.

reefkeeperaxm · 11/30/2009, 08:34 PM

Hmm.. but then it would kinda kill the whole purpose of auto top off lol, what about if I run the RO unit to the pressure tank and then connect the tanks output to the float valve in the sump. Or does the pressure tank has to stay closed when filling up? And will it stop dripping once the float valve closes?

joel g · 11/30/2009, 08:56 PM

Call or email the guys at Air Water & Ice they are great with their customer service
they helped me with all my issues when I first set up my RO and also when it was time to change filters

bertoni · 11/30/2009, 09:54 PM

Okay, I should have said more. Running the RO/DI unit straight to the actual topoff system is more complicated. RO membranes tend to let contaminants pass through over time, and so constant on-off use, as when connected directly to a sump float valve, makes them a lot less effective. They should be run for some number of gallons at a shot. I also think that a RO/DI system connected to a float valve is dangerous in that float valves fail far too often, which can result in some serious damage to the tank and carpeting. I can't tell from your description whether you've considered that already.

If you have, then on to the next issue. I'm not sure why the pressure tank is in the system. Is it for drinking water? If so, I think contacting a filter provider is a good idea. I'd be careful about how drinking water is stored and about connecting it in any way to a reef tank.

reefkeeperaxm · 11/30/2009, 11:02 PM

Thanks for reply, no the pressure tank is going to be 20 gallons and I want it to fill strictly for doing water changes. I'm trying to figure out how to fill up the 20 gals into storage and keep an auto top off going at the same time, but I understand what you're saying about RO being connected directly to the float valve. Maybe the only option is to fill up the 20 gal tank.

bertoni · 12/01/2009, 02:45 PM

I think that's the best option. I personally would be worried about a float valve failing. I think a dual float switch attached to a low-flow pump is better, so I went that way. It's more expensive, but safer.

discus510 · 12/01/2009, 06:24 PM

i personally dont think u should run ur ATO directly to ur RO unit. just cuz it turnin on and off will need replace of membrane faster. wearin out faster. if wrong someone please correct my thinkin. if i were u i would get a garbage can of somethin where u can fill with lots of RO water and have it comin out of tat tub. tats wat i do i have 2 250 gallon tub one for RO one for saltwater mix. and i have a 30 gallon tank for evap water auto fill

11/30/2009, 02:39 PM	#1
reefkeeperaxm Moved On Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 98	RO system I've never had one, and i'm going to ask someone to intsall one for me. My question is; I have this system: http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1...er_75_GPD.html If I buy one of these: http://www.airwaterice.com/category/2.tanks_pressure/ Will I be able to split the output from the RO unit, one to my float valve on the top off in sump and the other to the pressure tank? Will I need anything else to do that?

11/30/2009, 08:11 PM	#4
bertoni RC Mod Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mountain View, CA, USA Posts: 88,616	I don't think it'll be that easy to split the output automatically, since both sides would have to be equally pressurized to distribute the water evenly, etc. I'd install a T valve and switch between the two by hand, or use separate filters. __________________ Jonathan Bertoni

11/30/2009, 09:54 PM	#7
bertoni RC Mod Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mountain View, CA, USA Posts: 88,616	Okay, I should have said more. Running the RO/DI unit straight to the actual topoff system is more complicated. RO membranes tend to let contaminants pass through over time, and so constant on-off use, as when connected directly to a sump float valve, makes them a lot less effective. They should be run for some number of gallons at a shot. I also think that a RO/DI system connected to a float valve is dangerous in that float valves fail far too often, which can result in some serious damage to the tank and carpeting. I can't tell from your description whether you've considered that already. If you have, then on to the next issue. I'm not sure why the pressure tank is in the system. Is it for drinking water? If so, I think contacting a filter provider is a good idea. I'd be careful about how drinking water is stored and about connecting it in any way to a reef tank. __________________ Jonathan Bertoni

12/01/2009, 02:45 PM	#9
bertoni RC Mod Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mountain View, CA, USA Posts: 88,616	I think that's the best option. I personally would be worried about a float valve failing. I think a dual float switch attached to a low-flow pump is better, so I went that way. It's more expensive, but safer. __________________ Jonathan Bertoni

11/30/2009, 03:04 PM	#2
chow Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 61	I think so

11/30/2009, 03:06 PM	#3
reefkeeperaxm Moved On Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 98	That's a great response lol, as a matter of fact all 6 of them are.

11/30/2009, 08:34 PM	#5
reefkeeperaxm Moved On Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 98	Hmm.. but then it would kinda kill the whole purpose of auto top off lol, what about if I run the RO unit to the pressure tank and then connect the tanks output to the float valve in the sump. Or does the pressure tank has to stay closed when filling up? And will it stop dripping once the float valve closes?

11/30/2009, 08:56 PM	#6
joel g Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: southern ma Posts: 68	Call or email the guys at Air Water & Ice they are great with their customer service they helped me with all my issues when I first set up my RO and also when it was time to change filters

11/30/2009, 11:02 PM	#8
reefkeeperaxm Moved On Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 98	Thanks for reply, no the pressure tank is going to be 20 gallons and I want it to fill strictly for doing water changes. I'm trying to figure out how to fill up the 20 gals into storage and keep an auto top off going at the same time, but I understand what you're saying about RO being connected directly to the float valve. Maybe the only option is to fill up the 20 gal tank.

12/01/2009, 06:24 PM	#10
discus510 Moved On Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: San Jose, California Posts: 803	i personally dont think u should run ur ATO directly to ur RO unit. just cuz it turnin on and off will need replace of membrane faster. wearin out faster. if wrong someone please correct my thinkin. if i were u i would get a garbage can of somethin where u can fill with lots of RO water and have it comin out of tat tub. tats wat i do i have 2 250 gallon tub one for RO one for saltwater mix. and i have a 30 gallon tank for evap water auto fill