please have a look at my sump-

jcono · 12/03/2009, 12:23 PM

Hello-

I'm setting up a RR 90G oceanic tech. I bought it with the sump pictured; as you can see it has 2 chambers and a hole in the return chamber.

The Oceanic has dual overflows that I believe are 1" dia. Could I run seperate flex hoses, each with a ball valve to control flow, down to the skimmer section of the sump?

I believe the previous owner was going to use an external return pump? Could there be any other reason why you'd design a sump with a hole like this? I'd rather patch this hole and use an Eheim 1262 internally for a return. Would I use a "Y" split off of the 1262, then valves before each return? The returns that run up through the overflow are 3/4", so should I just keep all return lines at 3/4", as opposed to going wider for better flow?

Lots of questions, I know. I really appreciate any help/ feedback

Thanks again!

Jan

der_wille_zur_macht · 12/03/2009, 12:28 PM

DO NOT attempt to control flow by valving down the drain lines from the display tank to the sump. They MUST be free-flowing to operate properly. Basically, the drain lines just allow whatever volume the return pump puts back in the tank to drain to the sump. So, you should control flow by valving the (output side of the) return pump, not the drain lines.

Rather than permanently patch the hole in the sump, you could put a bulkhead with a cap on it. That way, if you ever wanted it down the road, it wouldn't mean drilling another hole.

A 1262 should take 3/4 output plumbing fine. You'll be near the capacity of two 1" overflows with that pump, so don't worry about losing efficiency - you may need to valve it down to keep it from overpowering the overflows.

jcono · 12/03/2009, 12:55 PM

Thanks for the quick response! So I will def. not put valves on the drain end.

tangdiver · 12/03/2009, 05:38 PM

Rather patch it, buy the right bulkhead and plug it. Easier to change later and ups the selling value.

12/03/2009, 12:28 PM	#2
der_wille_zur_macht Team RC Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: NY Posts: 17,749	DO NOT attempt to control flow by valving down the drain lines from the display tank to the sump. They MUST be free-flowing to operate properly. Basically, the drain lines just allow whatever volume the return pump puts back in the tank to drain to the sump. So, you should control flow by valving the (output side of the) return pump, not the drain lines. Rather than permanently patch the hole in the sump, you could put a bulkhead with a cap on it. That way, if you ever wanted it down the road, it wouldn't mean drilling another hole. A 1262 should take 3/4 output plumbing fine. You'll be near the capacity of two 1" overflows with that pump, so don't worry about losing efficiency - you may need to valve it down to keep it from overpowering the overflows. __________________ Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)

12/03/2009, 05:38 PM	#4
tangdiver Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Sioux Falls South Dakota Posts: 1,231	Rather patch it, buy the right bulkhead and plug it. Easier to change later and ups the selling value. __________________ Its unwise to pay to much or to little When U pay to much U lose a little $ When U pay to little U sometimes lose it all because the thing U bought was incapable of doing the thing U bought it to do Current Tank Info: 6' long, 3' wide, 2' high, My tank is not worthy of Tank of the Month

12/03/2009, 12:55 PM	#3
jcono Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Bernardsville, NJ Posts: 147	Thanks for the quick response! So I will def. not put valves on the drain end.