Will this Sump layout work ?

[Bayliner]

Hi,
I am setting up a new 75g tank and this is my first time with a sump.
Can you please tell me what you think of this layout ?

Am I asking for trouble if I use separate tanks for the (water change tank) and the (refuge tank) and keep them on a shelf above the skimmer/return tank ? The complete system will be under my display tank in the stand.



Thanks
Cam

[Bayliner]

After looking at this I am thinking that maybe the water from the water change tank should empty into the skimmer section....

Any thoughts ?

Thanks
Cam

[Daimyo68]

You can have seperate tanks/units anywhere you want as long as your willing to plumb everything and have the space to do so.

As far as you diagram:

You have your return line tee'd off into the water change tank. I'm assuming your going to pump out your "used" water. Instead, just plumb it into the waste drain line that's already coming off the "water change tank".

Fresh SW into the skimmer chamber, just incase of bubbles.

Ohter than that looks good.

[mabublitz]

I would pipe in another drain for display water or old water when you do your water change. other then that it looks good.

[Ratkiller]

You need a valve on the main drain, just under the last T. This way you can close it a little, redirecting the water to the refug-. The way you have it, the water from the display will fall straight down into the sump bypassing the refug-.

What are you plans for the return lines?

[herozero]

Originally Posted by Ratkiller

You need a valve on the main drain, just under the last T. This way you can close it a little, redirecting the water to the refug-. The way you have it, the water from the display will fall straight down into the sump bypassing the refug-.

Instead of a four way in that display drain (input from tank, output to sump, output to refug, output to water change tank), just replace it with a T (from tank, output to sump, output to fuge). Why are you sending display water to the change tank? Send that return line with a T up to the tank and direct to the drain (with valves on both outputs), unless there is a reason it goes to the water change tank? That should make it simpler.

Do you plan on pumping water from the change tank to sump? If it is gravity fed, put the bulkhead at the bottom of that tank.

my 2 cents

[Daimyo68]

Originally Posted by Ratkiller

You need a valve on the main drain, just under the last T. This way you can close it a little, redirecting the water to the refug-. The way you have it, the water from the display will fall straight down into the sump bypassing the refug-.

What are you plans for the return lines?

His return is line feeding his fuge. You should never have water running from the drain into the fuge, it will become a detritus dump.

Also, having a valve on the drain will only restrict flow, which is, imo, a bad idea unless you are using the BeanAnimal Drain system, where the full siphon line can be regulated/tailored to your return pump output. (if you have the means to use the BA system, I highly recommend it).

[Bayliner]

Hi,
Thank you everyone for all the information. I am learning allot here.
Maybe I should have labeled my drawing a little better. The Red line is my return line that is going into the skimmer in the bottom sump tank. The blue line is my return. I was planning on splitting it into 3 other tanks, (return to display tank) (into the refugium tank) and one for the (water change tank).

I am hoping to keep the water change tank in the circuit under normal conditions for extra water volume, then when it’s time to do a change just shut the supply valve to the change tank off. It should then stop overflowing into my sump. At that point I was going to open a drain line and drain that tank. Then refill it with RO/DI and salt, turn on a power head and heater and let it mix for a few days. Then slowly open the supply line again so it will feed the new changed water back into the system slowly.

Does this sound like it would work ?
I am a little nervous having 3 tanks under my DT… But I am thinking I would have more water volume this way and I like the idea of a separate refugium

I just found a thread on the BeanAnimal Drain… I just bought this tank and had it drilled with a single 1 ½ inch hole… In order for a BA system to work would I have to take it back and get two more holes drilled ?

I will attach a picture of the tank on the stand to give you an idea of how much room I have to play with.. I built the stand about 37” high so I have about 45” wide by 34” high under the DT.

Thanks again for all the help…. Keeping a tank sure is easier than building one….

Cam

[Daimyo68]

The issue that you will have with wanting to keep the Water Change Tank in the system is "contamination". If your running system water through there, then each time you want to do a water change you will have to drain and clean that tank. Mixing your new saltwater in the same tank that normally runs system water through it may throw off you readings when you test the new water to make sure all is ok. I'd vote against it, but it's your call.

The only thing I would do with that tank is make it dedicated to one thing:

The reservoir for the ATO.
WC "mixing" tank
System water - I understand you want more water volume, but unless you plan on having 2 fuges, it doesn't make sense to have that tank.

From the looks of your stand, things are going to be pretty tight under there with 3 tanks. I would scrap the "Water Change Tank" idea. Get a slim-line container to sit behind the tank stand, and have that fill with Top-Off water from your RO/DI unit.

I threw together a diagram also (using your original idea with the WC tank included. I didn't know you wanted to run system water through there).

[Daimyo68]

Missed the BA comment. Yes you would need 2 more holes drilled. If you can do it, definitely do so. You won't be disappointed

I have mine setup using 1" bulkheads and 1.5" drains with the internal coast to coast overflow in the tank. It's dead silent flowing approx 700gph. (was at 480 with a Quite1 return pump but upgraded for more flow).

I think next time, I would do the external box for the plumbing. The one in my tank now is almost 3" into the tank. While it's not a hassle and isn't that unsightly, I could have done 1-1.5" inside the tank and the external box would have been just 3" off the back of the tank.

[Bayliner]

Wow, thank you.
I wasn't expecting this much help....
Well you have me re-thinking things now... and that's a good thing since I havn't bought any of the tanks or plumbing yet.

I never thought about the long term effects with the water change tank being kept in the system all the time.

I think I am going to go with just a sump and refugium for now.
I am definiatly going to look into the BA system some more.. It's not that much trouble to take the tank back and get two more holes drilled.

Thanks again, I'll will let you know how I make out.

Cam