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03/03/2010, 07:24 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 317
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How can I lower my ALK?
Since I can't search(disabled), Can someone tell me what I can do to lower my Alkalinity? If I did it correctly, it is at 16.3 dKH. I did it twice, and also used a Check Solution, to verify I was doing it correctly. It is a salifert test kit. I use IO salt, and RO/DI water. Tank is 140 gallons.
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03/03/2010, 07:30 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39
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dont think mine has ever gotten that high, but i would start by doing a large water change, im sure others will have more exacting answers
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03/03/2010, 08:20 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Are you dosing anything else? If so, what? and how did you determine your dosage?
How long has it been at this level? Was it a creep over a number of weeks, or a sudden change. What dkh do you "attempt" to keep it at? What is your livestock currently?
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03/03/2010, 08:29 PM | #4 |
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Location: Brandon, FL
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I bought some bionic 2 part, and dosed once about 3 weeks ago, but not since. Just added what the bottle suggested. I havn't tested Alk before today. Calcium is at 370.
Tank is 3 months old. 1 Clown 1 PJ cardinal 1 2 week old hammer. Bunch of hermits and snails. |
03/03/2010, 08:42 PM | #5 |
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Lets look at the problem, so you can avoid it in the future:
You dosed more than your need. Your need is based on what your test results indicate. 2-parts are for daily replenishment of Alk/Ca. Given the age, size and available quanities in the water already you can set that stuff aside for a bit. You will not need to dose until you top off you water, test it and determine it is lower than the level you are attempting to hold. Say 9.5 dkh......I can help you with the specifics of getting that side of it down when you are ready. It will take a little to figure it out, and as you add calcium depositing creatures (which you don't except the hammer which grows slow and will not have a large impact on it, unless your coralline takes off...then maybe a dab.) So, rely on WC's to keep your levels up as they will probably coincide with one another. You have what is called an out of balance scenario if your numbers are correct, see articles link below and read the alk and ca ones. (Tip: don't get overwhelmed by all the chemistry math if your not all up on it.....just read them a few times, take in the big picture.....especially the one that uses the "marbles in a bowl" analogy.) I would do a large WC to get is down to the recommended level of 11 or 12dkh, so you don't kill everything now....but don't totally shock them and kill them by doing the same thing with a mongo sized WC..... then let it fall naturally back to 10 or 9.5 whatever you choose. http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=102605 Don't feel so bad, I just saw another person asking about how to lower there 22dkh water.
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~Doug |
03/03/2010, 08:44 PM | #6 |
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 4,689
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http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm - Check out Corrections for Zone 3. Bookmark that handy link from our good friend Randy Holmes Farley. It has come in useful for me on numerous occasions. Actually my LFS prints it and uses it to educate their customers. I know what everyone is thinking, yes an LFS that actually gives good info! Don't worry they still try to oversell me everytime I go in, but don't we all have that problem
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Ryan |
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