IceCap Model 250 MH Ballast

bwaters · 03/07/2010, 01:06 PM

I have an older model IceCap 250W MH Ballast that I can't get to work???
When I installed it the MH Lamp worked but then I shut if off and it won't come back on. In checking with my Volt meter, I have 120V coming in but I am only measuring 14Volts on the output side. I have changed the wiring harness and still get the same reading. What should the output be?

Phyxius · 03/07/2010, 01:16 PM

Did you shut it off and then turn it right back on and it wouldnt light again? The ballasts have a built in delay that keeps them from lighting back up for a few minutes. If you did this it may be why they didnt light right back up. Turn it on and wait a few minutes and see what happens. If they dont light back up after that it may be a bulb or ballast issue
What kind of bulb do you have hooked up to it?

bwaters · 03/07/2010, 02:05 PM

Yes, I did wait before turning it back on and even left it off for a day and trying it again. I am using a 250W MH bulb that works fine in my other ballast assembly (I am using 2-250W MH fixtures in the tank) so I am thinking it is a problem with the ballast or wiring. I have replaced all the wiring but I'm just not sure what I should be reading on my voltmeter on the output of the ballast, I am assuming it should read in Volts AC and not Volts DC? before I junk the ballast and buy a new one I want to make sure I've covered everything.

PaulErik · 03/07/2010, 05:23 PM

Using a multi meter is never recommended for testing an electronic or pulse start type metal halide ballast. If the ballast is working correctly the starting voltage will be between 1600-5000 Volts. The high starting/ignition voltage can damage meters very easily.

The best way to test the ballast is to swap the ballast on a known working lighting setup. If the problem follows the ballast then the ballast has failed.

03/07/2010, 01:06 PM	#1
bwaters Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Everett WA Posts: 3	IceCap Model 250 MH Ballast I have an older model IceCap 250W MH Ballast that I can't get to work??? When I installed it the MH Lamp worked but then I shut if off and it won't come back on. In checking with my Volt meter, I have 120V coming in but I am only measuring 14Volts on the output side. I have changed the wiring harness and still get the same reading. What should the output be?

03/07/2010, 01:16 PM	#2
Phyxius Moving About Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: RTP NC Posts: 2,405	Did you shut it off and then turn it right back on and it wouldnt light again? The ballasts have a built in delay that keeps them from lighting back up for a few minutes. If you did this it may be why they didnt light right back up. Turn it on and wait a few minutes and see what happens. If they dont light back up after that it may be a bulb or ballast issue What kind of bulb do you have hooked up to it? __________________ -Mike I never drink water because of the disgusting things that fish do in it. W. C. Fields Current Tank Info: JUST SOLD AND TOOK DOWN ALL 11/10---210g AGA, 80g sump, Tunze Streams. Tunze ATO,RK Elite Controller, RKII,Dart, GEO Calcium& Nielsen Kalk Reactors,GEO media reactor, Kaleini Rock, 3-250 watt 14k EVC , VHO..... 34g Solana and 60g cube

03/07/2010, 02:05 PM	#3
bwaters Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Everett WA Posts: 3	Yes, I did wait before turning it back on and even left it off for a day and trying it again. I am using a 250W MH bulb that works fine in my other ballast assembly (I am using 2-250W MH fixtures in the tank) so I am thinking it is a problem with the ballast or wiring. I have replaced all the wiring but I'm just not sure what I should be reading on my voltmeter on the output of the ballast, I am assuming it should read in Volts AC and not Volts DC? before I junk the ballast and buy a new one I want to make sure I've covered everything.

03/07/2010, 05:23 PM	#4
PaulErik Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: North Charleston, SC Posts: 1,703	Using a multi meter is never recommended for testing an electronic or pulse start type metal halide ballast. If the ballast is working correctly the starting voltage will be between 1600-5000 Volts. The high starting/ignition voltage can damage meters very easily. The best way to test the ballast is to swap the ballast on a known working lighting setup. If the problem follows the ballast then the ballast has failed.