LED Optics

DeepPirate · 07/29/2010, 07:04 AM

Does anyone know what/where I can find some optics for my White & Royal Blue XR-E LED's? I am thinking about looking at some 40deg optics because, it is my understanding, that this will replicate the light output of a 250MH.

FYI - I have 24 Whites + 24 Royal Blues = 48 total.

I am keeping some soft corals (Mushrooms, Xenia & Toadstool coral) and a RBTA so far. I got my DIY LED system up and running, for over a week now, and while things look great I think I need to provide more umph.

I forgot to add...the tank's dimensions: 48x13x20

chimmike · 07/29/2010, 07:20 AM

40* will really close and focus the light. What drivers are you using?

try rapidled or ledsupply

der_wille_zur_macht · 07/29/2010, 07:27 AM

rapidled, ledsupply, or etg (probably the best source, but you have to call or email - no online ordering).

Don't equate optic width to a specific output level - output is tied just as closely to LED count, LED efficiency, mounting height, and drive current. Optics don't change how much light you have, they just change where the light goes. So, yeah, you get more intensity directly under the LED, but less elsewhere. If you have a dense enough fixture or the LEDs are high up, that probably won't be a bad thing. But if you have a sparse array and it's close to the water, you might get some patchy effects and/or color separation.

Can you provide us with some more details on your build?

DeepPirate · 07/29/2010, 07:37 AM

I have 4 Meanwell drivers (-48D) and I use a Reefkeeper Elite V2 to control the dimming capability on the 0-10V. I have two arrays of 24 LEDs (50/50 mixture). I believe the setup is about 6inches above the water and the tank is 13inches deep.

I have 24 white Q5 XR-E and 24 Royal Blue XR-E LEDs. They are about 1-1.5 inches apart.

chimmike · 07/29/2010, 07:49 AM

that lighting should be more than fine for the corals you have, without any optics at all. Are you setting the dimming correctly? Perhaps you need to increase the level via your RKE?

DeepPirate · 07/29/2010, 08:17 AM

The only other thing that I can think of is that I have two of the Meanwells set at about 980mA (for the whites) and the other two set at ~780mA (for the RBs). From what I understand, I don't want to set them higher than 1000mA & 800mA, respectively, otherwise the LEDs won't last as long.

I have the RKE, using an hour, ramping them up to 100% (sunrise)...thus ramping down (sunset) for an hour.

I realize that I might have sufficient numbers for everything, but, the voices in my head tell me that I might have missed something....being the patient guy that I am .

My RBTA looks okay so far. But, it is still wide open and spreading its tentacles. My thought is that it is trying to suck up all of the light that it can grab. Thus, my thinking about providing some optics to tweak the light strength.

The Xenia and mushrooms seem to like the light...It looks like they're multiplying faster. I eventually want to get some hard corals.

der_wille_zur_macht · 07/29/2010, 08:32 AM

Cree has released a retroactive update to XR-E specs claiming a max. current of 1,250mA, iirc. Double-check in the datasheet to be sure, but 1000mA won't be a problem.

FWIW you have basically a carbon copy of Soundwave's original build, and he had no problems with a typical mixed reef tank. Adding optics would improve the intensity, at a small loss in spread - but you wouldn't see that loss if you stick with wider optics.

I know at least a few vendors sell 70 - 80 degree optics for XR-E. You might want to start with those, or drop down to 60's. I would not run 40's on your tank - light rig is too close and spacing isn't tight enough, plus you definitely don't NEED that much light!

I'm sure this is obvious and I hope it's not insulting, but make sure everything else in the tank is up to par - ca, alk, pH, nutrient levels, salinity, flow, etc. Since clearly those factors can all impact the health and happiness of the corals and anemone.

DeepPirate · 07/29/2010, 08:51 AM

Not insulting one bit...Any information is certainly wanted and appreciated.

One nice thing about the RKE is that I can readily see some of the parameters. With that, a test kit and a refracter, it looks like my temperature, salinity, nitrates, nitrites, ca and pH are in acceptable limits.

I'll look around for some 70-80deg optics...but...I'm not in any hurry to put them on. Still would like to see how the original setup works out, first.

Thanks

der_wille_zur_macht · 07/29/2010, 08:54 AM

The beauty of LED optics is that it's easy and relatively cheap to change your mind. Or, even better, change the arrangement over different portions of the tank. If your tank is doing fine except one high-light coral, you can slap tighter optics on the LEDs above that specimen.

DeepPirate · 07/29/2010, 09:02 AM

Good idea....I was thinking about that. I'll keep that in mind as well.

07/29/2010, 07:04 AM	#1
DeepPirate Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Mukilteo, WA Posts: 25	LED Optics Does anyone know what/where I can find some optics for my White & Royal Blue XR-E LED's? I am thinking about looking at some 40deg optics because, it is my understanding, that this will replicate the light output of a 250MH. FYI - I have 24 Whites + 24 Royal Blues = 48 total. I am keeping some soft corals (Mushrooms, Xenia & Toadstool coral) and a RBTA so far. I got my DIY LED system up and running, for over a week now, and while things look great I think I need to provide more umph. I forgot to add...the tank's dimensions: 48x13x20 Last edited by DeepPirate; 07/29/2010 at 07:31 AM.

07/29/2010, 07:20 AM	#2
chimmike oxygen abuser Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Parrish, FL Posts: 5,089 Blog Entries: 2	40* will really close and focus the light. What drivers are you using? try rapidled or ledsupply __________________ -Mike Tankless wonder Geaux Noles!

07/29/2010, 07:27 AM	#3
der_wille_zur_macht Team RC Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: NY Posts: 17,749	rapidled, ledsupply, or etg (probably the best source, but you have to call or email - no online ordering). Don't equate optic width to a specific output level - output is tied just as closely to LED count, LED efficiency, mounting height, and drive current. Optics don't change how much light you have, they just change where the light goes. So, yeah, you get more intensity directly under the LED, but less elsewhere. If you have a dense enough fixture or the LEDs are high up, that probably won't be a bad thing. But if you have a sparse array and it's close to the water, you might get some patchy effects and/or color separation. Can you provide us with some more details on your build? __________________ Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)

07/29/2010, 07:37 AM	#4
DeepPirate Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Mukilteo, WA Posts: 25	I have 4 Meanwell drivers (-48D) and I use a Reefkeeper Elite V2 to control the dimming capability on the 0-10V. I have two arrays of 24 LEDs (50/50 mixture). I believe the setup is about 6inches above the water and the tank is 13inches deep. I have 24 white Q5 XR-E and 24 Royal Blue XR-E LEDs. They are about 1-1.5 inches apart. Last edited by DeepPirate; 07/29/2010 at 07:45 AM.

07/29/2010, 07:49 AM	#5
chimmike oxygen abuser Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Parrish, FL Posts: 5,089 Blog Entries: 2	that lighting should be more than fine for the corals you have, without any optics at all. Are you setting the dimming correctly? Perhaps you need to increase the level via your RKE? __________________ -Mike Tankless wonder Geaux Noles!

07/29/2010, 08:17 AM	#6
DeepPirate Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Mukilteo, WA Posts: 25	The only other thing that I can think of is that I have two of the Meanwells set at about 980mA (for the whites) and the other two set at ~780mA (for the RBs). From what I understand, I don't want to set them higher than 1000mA & 800mA, respectively, otherwise the LEDs won't last as long. I have the RKE, using an hour, ramping them up to 100% (sunrise)...thus ramping down (sunset) for an hour. I realize that I might have sufficient numbers for everything, but, the voices in my head tell me that I might have missed something....being the patient guy that I am . My RBTA looks okay so far. But, it is still wide open and spreading its tentacles. My thought is that it is trying to suck up all of the light that it can grab. Thus, my thinking about providing some optics to tweak the light strength. The Xenia and mushrooms seem to like the light...It looks like they're multiplying faster. I eventually want to get some hard corals.

07/29/2010, 08:32 AM	#7
der_wille_zur_macht Team RC Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: NY Posts: 17,749	Cree has released a retroactive update to XR-E specs claiming a max. current of 1,250mA, iirc. Double-check in the datasheet to be sure, but 1000mA won't be a problem. FWIW you have basically a carbon copy of Soundwave's original build, and he had no problems with a typical mixed reef tank. Adding optics would improve the intensity, at a small loss in spread - but you wouldn't see that loss if you stick with wider optics. I know at least a few vendors sell 70 - 80 degree optics for XR-E. You might want to start with those, or drop down to 60's. I would not run 40's on your tank - light rig is too close and spacing isn't tight enough, plus you definitely don't NEED that much light! I'm sure this is obvious and I hope it's not insulting, but make sure everything else in the tank is up to par - ca, alk, pH, nutrient levels, salinity, flow, etc. Since clearly those factors can all impact the health and happiness of the corals and anemone. __________________ Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)

07/29/2010, 08:51 AM	#8
DeepPirate Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Mukilteo, WA Posts: 25	Not insulting one bit...Any information is certainly wanted and appreciated. One nice thing about the RKE is that I can readily see some of the parameters. With that, a test kit and a refracter, it looks like my temperature, salinity, nitrates, nitrites, ca and pH are in acceptable limits. I'll look around for some 70-80deg optics...but...I'm not in any hurry to put them on. Still would like to see how the original setup works out, first. Thanks

07/29/2010, 08:54 AM	#9
der_wille_zur_macht Team RC Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: NY Posts: 17,749	The beauty of LED optics is that it's easy and relatively cheap to change your mind. Or, even better, change the arrangement over different portions of the tank. If your tank is doing fine except one high-light coral, you can slap tighter optics on the LEDs above that specimen. __________________ Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)

07/29/2010, 09:02 AM	#10
DeepPirate Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Mukilteo, WA Posts: 25	Good idea....I was thinking about that. I'll keep that in mind as well.

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