Best way to dial back my return pump?

pw154 · 10/20/2010, 02:34 PM

I have an Eheim 1262 return pump, how can I dial it back a bit to reduce flow? Should I just plumb a ball valve in after the pump's outflow on the return line?

Palting · 10/20/2010, 02:42 PM

Yup. That's what I did. Some say a gate valve is better, though.

rayn · 10/20/2010, 03:41 PM

That works, however bow does your return come into the tank? Any chance you could place locline on it and shoot it in different directions?

ahud · 10/20/2010, 03:47 PM

I'm throttling my eheim down as well, I only want 200-300gph running through my sump.

KBear · 10/20/2010, 03:53 PM

I did mine with a gate. IMO it's easier to control the flow than with than a ball. Also, I have heard about ball valves getting stuck (salt, other buildup) and a gate would be easier to break free if that happens.

curry76 · 10/20/2010, 05:12 PM

Doesn't restricting flow from the pump cause damage?

Why not add another line with a valve that goes back to the sump, that way you're not restricting your pump but you can reduce the flow into the display tank.

Sk8r · 10/20/2010, 05:20 PM

Putting a PLASTIC valve on your 'up' line will slow things down: it will not hurt your pump. It's only as if it were having to lift the water higher up. Use plastic hose clamps underwater. You can safely use metal ones above water. Using a valve on your 'down' line can reduce gurgle, but you MUST be sure it never clogs, or you can find your tank overflowing. And during early stages of a tank, and with hair algae, clogs do happen!

swjim · 10/20/2010, 05:28 PM

As others have said, a ball or gate valve will work.

Another option would be to see if anyone locally is looking to trade up and could give you a 1260 or similar pump in good condition and maybe a few bucks too. It could save you a little electricity and you wouldn't have to modify your plumbing.

davocean · 10/20/2010, 05:33 PM

Another option is to purchase the 1260 volute, as 1260 and 1262 are interchangeable, only difference between the two pumps, and the volute is like $10

JoeRonda · 10/20/2010, 05:51 PM

I have a 1260 and dialed it back to match my skimmer pump. I put a "T" half way up the return line and then a ball valve to bleed off some water back to the refugium section. It works nicely.

steamman · 10/20/2010, 06:01 PM

Tee off back to your sump. Why make your pump work harder than it has to? Personally, I would not put a valve on the line down to your sump.

aleonn · 10/20/2010, 06:07 PM

I'd want to take advantage of the extra pump power by plumbing a manifold to, say, a Phosban reactor, calcium reactor, and/or bio-pellet reactor. That would lower the gph by 100-200gph for each reactor.

JoeRonda · 10/20/2010, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steamman

Tee off back to your sump. Why make your pump work harder than it has to? Personally, I would not put a valve on the line down to your sump.

I put a "T" on my return line so that I don't restrict my pump when I match it to my skimmer pump. If you just put a valve on your return line from your pump you are making it struggle. Doing it my way you are just bleeding off some extra pressure back over to the center compartment in the sump. I might not be explaining this right, I'll have to make a diagram. I thought that everyone did it this way.

ahud · 10/20/2010, 07:47 PM

I thought that putting a valve above your pump was just like adding head pressure? Does a pump with 3' of head last longer than a pump with 12' of head?

I may be off, but everybody I have talked too said it was fine to add a ball or gate valve to the top. I still plan to do it on mine lol.

curry76 · 10/20/2010, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sk8r

Putting a PLASTIC valve on your 'up' line will slow things down: it will not hurt your pump. It's only as if it were having to lift the water higher up.

That makes sense, thanks for the info.

lordofthereef · 10/20/2010, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aleonn

I'd want to take advantage of the extra pump power by plumbing a manifold to, say, a Phosban reactor, calcium reactor, and/or bio-pellet reactor. That would lower the gph by 100-200gph for each reactor.

This is the best option IMO. Even if you don't have one NOW, you can always plumb it now and be ready for it in the future. Wish I had done that. I am bringing 2 reactors online and need to alter my return plumbing now!

steamman · 10/21/2010, 07:49 AM

Pardon my crude diagram. This is what it should look like.

10/20/2010, 02:34 PM	#1
pw154 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Canada Posts: 39	Best way to dial back my return pump? I have an Eheim 1262 return pump, how can I dial it back a bit to reduce flow? Should I just plumb a ball valve in after the pump's outflow on the return line? __________________ ! Current Tank Info: 150 gal DT, 40 gal sump

10/20/2010, 02:42 PM	#2
Palting Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 6,912	Yup. That's what I did. Some say a gate valve is better, though. __________________ Anything I post is just an opinion. One of many in this hobby. Believe and follow at your own risk of rapid and complete annihilation of all life in your tank :) Current Tank Info: Incept 3/2010, 150 RR, 50g sump, 20g fuge, 150w 15K MH x3, T5 actinics x8, moonlight LED x6, 1400gph return, Koralia 1400 x4, 300 g skimmer, 4 tangs, 2 mandarins, 2 perc, 6 line, 3 cardinals, 2 firefish, SPS, LPS, zoas, palys, shrooms, clam

10/20/2010, 03:41 PM	#3
rayn Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Pekin, Il Posts: 2,864	That works, however bow does your return come into the tank? Any chance you could place locline on it and shoot it in different directions? __________________ Currently changing, stay tuned for new details...

10/20/2010, 05:20 PM	#7
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	Putting a PLASTIC valve on your 'up' line will slow things down: it will not hurt your pump. It's only as if it were having to lift the water higher up. Use plastic hose clamps underwater. You can safely use metal ones above water. Using a valve on your 'down' line can reduce gurgle, but you MUST be sure it never clogs, or you can find your tank overflowing. And during early stages of a tank, and with hair algae, clogs do happen! __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

10/20/2010, 05:33 PM	#9
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	Another option is to purchase the 1260 volute, as 1260 and 1262 are interchangeable, only difference between the two pumps, and the volute is like $10 __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

10/20/2010, 03:47 PM	#4
ahud Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 519	I'm throttling my eheim down as well, I only want 200-300gph running through my sump.

10/20/2010, 03:53 PM	#5
KBear Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 60	I did mine with a gate. IMO it's easier to control the flow than with than a ball. Also, I have heard about ball valves getting stuck (salt, other buildup) and a gate would be easier to break free if that happens.

10/20/2010, 05:12 PM	#6
curry76 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: pa Posts: 64	Doesn't restricting flow from the pump cause damage? Why not add another line with a valve that goes back to the sump, that way you're not restricting your pump but you can reduce the flow into the display tank.

10/20/2010, 05:28 PM	#8
swjim Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Boerne, TX Posts: 884	As others have said, a ball or gate valve will work. Another option would be to see if anyone locally is looking to trade up and could give you a 1260 or similar pump in good condition and maybe a few bucks too. It could save you a little electricity and you wouldn't have to modify your plumbing.

10/20/2010, 05:51 PM	#10
JoeRonda Made in the U.S.A. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Washington,PA Posts: 694	I have a 1260 and dialed it back to match my skimmer pump. I put a "T" half way up the return line and then a ball valve to bleed off some water back to the refugium section. It works nicely.

10/20/2010, 06:01 PM	#11
steamman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey Posts: 253	Tee off back to your sump. Why make your pump work harder than it has to? Personally, I would not put a valve on the line down to your sump. Last edited by steamman; 10/20/2010 at 06:52 PM. Reason: May have stepped on toes

10/20/2010, 06:07 PM	#12
aleonn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 4,041	I'd want to take advantage of the extra pump power by plumbing a manifold to, say, a Phosban reactor, calcium reactor, and/or bio-pellet reactor. That would lower the gph by 100-200gph for each reactor.

10/20/2010, 07:47 PM	#14
ahud Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 519	I thought that putting a valve above your pump was just like adding head pressure? Does a pump with 3' of head last longer than a pump with 12' of head? I may be off, but everybody I have talked too said it was fine to add a ball or gate valve to the top. I still plan to do it on mine lol.

10/21/2010, 07:49 AM	#17
steamman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey Posts: 253	Pardon my crude diagram. This is what it should look like.

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