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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Elmwood Village, Buffalo New York
Posts: 323
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Water change Question and Nitrate Question
I change 10 gallons weekly on a ~100 gallon system. This week I changed 30 gallons because I over-adjusted my b ionic dosing and wanted to dilute it down. I came up with a couple of questions. When I dump my water in, the end of the pour is visibly saltier. I mix my saltwater with a large plastic spoon like you might cook with because this is the way I was shown to do it when I was introduced to the hobby. Should I be using a powerhead to mix? Or should I be adding the water to my sump instead? I never really thought about it, but my anemone and orange torch look like they have a couple of whitened tips near my pour zone.
Also, I have a salifert nitrate kit and I'm wondering if there is an easier way to discriminate low range nitrates. I have a hue IQ of 10, but that doesn't help me very much to discriminate between changes in nitrate levels on the color card. Mine seem to stay around 10ppm, but I have a tough time saying anything more accurate than that. Specifically, I started using GFO and it brought my phosphates straight to zero but my chaeto also stopped growing and I'm wondering if that will affect my nitrates at all. I'd love to be able to measure them more accurately. Thanks, Andy |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tonawanda, NY
Posts: 362
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I always use a powerhead to mix and let sit for 24 hours when doing a 25% plus water change. I have done smaller changes without letting the water age. I use a small maxi-jet pump to pump the water into the sump instead of dumping directly into the tank.
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#3 |
Team RC Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 41,560
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imo/ime
*stir pasta with spoons and get a powerhead or pump to mix new saltwater
*aerate new saltwater for 24 hours before introducing into aquarium. Bring up to temp and double check S.G. with refracto. So often it's the basics that are stumbling blocks for many people! *the API (Aquarium Pharmeceuticals) nitrate test kit is as good as (or better) than the Salifert EDIT: when making new saltwater ALWAYS add saltmix (slowly) to water. DON'T add water to saltmix. Aerate freshwater prior to adding any salt.
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over 24 years experience with multiple types of marine aquarium systems *see Upstate Reef Society Forum on RC and FB* GOOGLE JUNIOR'S REEF Current Tank Info: 84x24x30 265g reef past TOTM honors |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Elmwood Village, Buffalo New York
Posts: 323
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The deeper I get into this hobby, the more I realize that almost everything that I was initially told was in some way inaccurate. I suppose I will come to look upon the stir spoon much as I now look upon the pitchers I used to top off tapwater with- lacking knowledge and finesse. I'm not complaining- figuring out why practices are bad is a great way to come to understand good husbandry practices. I'll have to modify my system. Gary, when you say aerate, do you mean with an airpump and tubing?
Thanks. On a totally unrelated note, I've been streaming the new Cee Lo album off NPR and it is smooth and awesome. I recommend it. |
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#5 |
Team RC Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 41,560
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aerate refers to moving the water. You can use airstone, pump or spoon to aerate new saltwater.
Before RC I learned a lot of things the hard way. There's no reason for me to watch others suffer what I went through ![]()
__________________
over 24 years experience with multiple types of marine aquarium systems *see Upstate Reef Society Forum on RC and FB* GOOGLE JUNIOR'S REEF Current Tank Info: 84x24x30 265g reef past TOTM honors |
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#6 |
Team RC Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 41,560
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use pumps instead of buckets to move water during a water change
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over 24 years experience with multiple types of marine aquarium systems *see Upstate Reef Society Forum on RC and FB* GOOGLE JUNIOR'S REEF Current Tank Info: 84x24x30 265g reef past TOTM honors Last edited by Gary Majchrzak; 11/02/2010 at 05:40 PM. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Elmwood Village, Buffalo New York
Posts: 323
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I'll have to see if I can automate the spoon. Thanks.
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#8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,253
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Quote:
I use empty gallon jugs - problem?? FWIW - I came to the whole stirring with a wooden spoon thing on my own volition ![]()
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Thanks for the help! Lizz 29g DT, 15g sump/fuge Current Tank Info: 29g DT, 15g sump, 30 lbs LR, 3" LS, 4x24W T5 |
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#9 |
Team RC Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 41,560
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if I remember my mixing procedures correctly
I graduated from hand to spoon to maxijet to Mag 7
tip: Mag 7 eliminates the need for a heater in the mixing bucket because of the heat it produces
__________________
over 24 years experience with multiple types of marine aquarium systems *see Upstate Reef Society Forum on RC and FB* GOOGLE JUNIOR'S REEF Current Tank Info: 84x24x30 265g reef past TOTM honors |
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#10 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa
Posts: 3,455
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Quote:
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: rochester ny
Posts: 406
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Quote:
I'm the same way my waters changes are 50 to 100 gallons I use a 9.5 like u said it mixes to clear heated ready water in no time.
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610g display tank (8ft x 4ft x 4ft ) 300g sump (90g refigum) Current Tank Info: alot |
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