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#1 |
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Reef temperature
can someone explain how temp affects your reef tank?
i used to always keep my tank around 77-80, only because that's what seemed to be what everyone else would say it should be at. after taking out a lot of my old powerheads (koralias and maxi-jets) and replacing with vortech, my temp has significantly dropped without me noticing (plus my thermometer broke). so for about 3 months now, i've been running my tank around 73-75 or so. everything seems fine and quite happy? i plan to add a heater in my sump when i get a chance but i'm just wondering now, where did this 77-80 benchmark come from and what happens as temp drops? i remember reading once that there's less oxygen at warmer temps somewhere but i just don't know if this is true? is there some function that dictates what happens as a function of temperature or is this just based on what temp the ocean reefs are? i also remember from keeping seahorses that they are less prone to disease if you can keep the temp around 73 or at least below 75. not sure exactly why other than they generally inhabit cooler temp water.... are there maybe diseases that prefer hotter water? i know in lakes they say if the water gets warm there tends to be more bacterial blooms....? or is that a myth too?
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#2 |
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From Randy Holmes article, Reef Parameters.
Temperature Temperature impacts reef aquarium inhabitants in a variety of ways. First and foremost, the animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises. They may consequently use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, calcium and alkalinity at higher temperatures. This higher metabolic rate can also increase both their growth rate and waste production at higher temperatures. Another important impact of temperature is on the chemical aspects of the aquarium. The solubility of dissolved gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, for example, changes with temperature. Oxygen, in particular, can be a concern because it is less soluble at higher temperature. So what does this imply for aquarists? In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F. Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations. All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81° F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it. All things considered, I recommend temperatures in the range of 76-83° F unless there is a very clear reason to keep it outside that range.
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#3 |
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this is very interesting. thank-you!
so in effect, having my tank at these lower temps has: a) increased the oxygen levels of my system, b) lowered waste production, and c) slowed down metabolic rates weird. i guess once i get the heater installed i can expect more growth as a function of temperature increase (along with more waste production).
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#4 |
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Some animals might start dying at those temperatures, but that's hard to predict. I lost a royal gramma once to a blown heater, but I have forgotten how far the temperature dropped. The yellow watchman goby pair in the tank didn't show any signs of distress.
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#5 |
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I personally prefer about 78 for my tanks, but they seem to do equally well anywhere from 75 to 82. Much higher or lower and they start looking stresed. But I think that is more of a function of what they are used to. So if yours are used to 73-75 I would only very slowly and cautiously raise there temps. The change, if made to quickly will stres them out.
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#6 |
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78-85 is the ocean temperature in figi area where my live rocks from, so I'll keep the temp in that range, usually 79-81, never under 75.
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#7 |
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I keep mine right around 71-72 with no problems, fish eat less grow slower, corals react fine, more oxygen, not to mention when I dove the GBR the water temp was a little lower than that.
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#8 | ||
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Quote:
b&c) It really depends. In some species, metabolism and waste production are temperature dependent. Many other species' metabolisms compensate for temperature, so that there is little or no change in metabolic rate across normal temperatures and consequently no change in waste production or oxygen consumption. Quote:
If you're interested, you can actually see real time and historical temp data at a variety of locations and depths on the GBR at this site: http://data.aims.gov.au/aimsrtds/fac...readings.xhtml FWIW, the absolute coldest reefs have an average temperature of 70, but an average reef sees a low temp of about 77.
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#9 | |
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Quote:
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Some say the sun rises in the East. Some say it rises in the West. The truth must be somewhere in the middle. Current Tank Info: tore them down to move and haven't had the time or money to set them back up |
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#10 | |
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Quote:
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#11 |
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just from gathering opinions here, it seems the only argument for keeping our tanks in the higher temps is that natural reefs are at higher temps, although this also seems to be a point of contention? not that this isn't a good argument, just that there seems to be different opinions on what natural reefs seem to be at. on the other end of the scale, seems like some people are able to keep healthy reef tanks at lower temps with physiological-metabolic type arguments, although this also seems to be a point of contention as well. i wonder where the 77 degrees benchmark came from when i first started reef keeping? a quick google search also comes up with varying arguments on both ends of the scale....
now i don't know whether to put a heater in or not. i guess the other problem is instrumental, my heater's thermostat doesn't seem reliable. it was a pricey heater that eats up alot of power, but it doesn't seem to turn off at the right temperature that the dial is set at and i'm a little afraid i'd shock everything if it goes on too strong and for too long. seems that many people have this problem with many of the readily available heaters.
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#12 |
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I believe the important point is to be within the acceptable norms AND be constant. The heater and/or chiller are there to prevent large swings in temp. A couple degrees due to lighting is ok (it happens on the shallow reefs too), but avoid the big swings.
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#13 | |
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Quote:
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#14 |
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If your tank is happy at 73-75 don't adjust it because others say you should. However you may find that some new corals don't appreciate the chill, especially if they are used to 80. But if you tank is established and happy don't change it. If down the road you decide 78 is a better temp then make the change slowly.
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#15 | |
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#16 |
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Most of the animals we keep are from reefs at temperatures more like 82 F, which is what I targeted as the base temperature. Depending on what's actually in the tank, something in the low 70's might be appropriate, but that's not a tropical reef temperature. There are coral reefs living at a lot of temperatures around the world. For animals from tropical reefs, I'd expect them to be a lot healthier at normal temperatures for them, although they might survive in a larger range in a tank with no competitors from cooler areas.
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#17 | ||||
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It helps to picture an idealized metabolic curve, which is basically a parabola. Near the top of the curve, or the temperature optimum, the rate of change is slow, or in temperature compensating species, almost flat. As you move farther out from the optimum, the curve steepens and the impact of temperature becomes more dramatic. Obviously, there are absolute limits to how cold reef animals can get before metabolic stress begins. If you get too far away from the optimum, metabolism slows down so much that the biochemical reactions that need to happen, can't happen quickly enough to keep the animal functioning properly. The trouble is that since cold temps tend to be a much less frequent problem on reefs, the limits at the low end are much less well-understood than the limits at the upper end. We know that when these animals get cold, metabolism bogs down and things go bad, but we don't know where that cutoff begins. What we do know is that on a lot of reefs, once temps get below about 70-72, you tend to get bleaching, which is an obvious sign of acute stress, but generally one that occurs well after the actual stress threshold is reached. We also know that almost 85% of reefs occur in areas that never or only very rarely see temps below 73. Those that are colder than that also tend to have greatly diminished diversity- basically only the hardiest species live there. Taken together, that's a good indication that somewhere around 73-74 is about the lowest most corals do well at long-term. Again though, unlike the high-temp stress thresholds, that's based more on inference than actual measurements of the onset of physiological stress. Quote:
Also, I think a major point of the argument is about whether the practical benefits to you as a reefkeeper are more important than the biological benefits to the animals we keep. From a biological perspective, depressed metabolism isn't a benefit- it's a form of chronic stress. The metabolic optimum is where the body functions most efficiently. It's where you get the fastest growth, most efficient use of food and oxygen, best reproductive potential, etc. On the other hand, from a practical perspective, a hobbyist might not want the fastest growth possible since it also comes with increased waste production and food consumption. To reframe the same question though, what's the argument for keeping temps in the low 70s other than to depress metabolism or avoid buying or adjusting a heater? Quote:
Quote:
Beware though that a lot of hobbyists make bad recommendations about temperature based on their poor understanding of how temp stress works in corals. You'll see lots of recommendations to keep temps towards the low end to increase your margin of error and that you should avoid temp swings, when in reality neither of these makes any sense based on what we know about stress in corals.
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#18 | |
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I in no way think that temperature fluctuations are harmful to corals and are certainly not unnatural. In fact, the data on the issue shows quite clearly that variable temps are metabolically beneficial to corals and help protect them from temperature stress. You'll see me argue quite frequently that hobbyists should NOT try to avoid or minimize temperature variations as long as they stay within the range they have acclimated their corals to. The recommendation I was responding to was about keeping the temps cooler in the summer to allow for a larger margin of error in case power went out and temp rose and vice versa during winter. That recommendation is based on the false presumption that the stress threshold is a fixed value, say 88 or so, and that by keeping the temp 2 degrees cooler, you give yourself an extra 2 degrees of wiggle room. We've known for a few decades now that that's not the case- that the stress threshold in corals is set by acclimatization to the average seasonal maximum temp. Regardless of whether that maximum is 86 or 82, you still have the same 2-4 degree F margin of error. You can literally have 15 degrees of variation during the day without issue, but only a 2 degree increase above the maximum can be catastrophic. So consider what happens if the ambient temp is 86 and the power goes out long enough that the temp equalizes to it. If your tank's normal maximum temp is 84, you get a 2 degree excursion beyond the maximum, which is about the bare minimum amount it takes to get acute stress. If you keep the tank at 82, you get a 4 degree spike, which is more than enough to cause acute stress in most cases. Also, since the temperature differential between the tank and ambient temperature is greater, the temperature rises into the stress zone quicker. In the end, a misguided attempt to play it safe, actual ends up making the situation worse. If anything, the temp should be slightly higher in summer and cooler in winter, to minimize the temp variation beyond the max and min which is what causes stress. Also FWIW, the reefs in FL are a special case. The reefs north of Biscayne Bay have all been dead for the past 5,000 years, so don't tell us much of anything about temps. The reefs in the Keys are mostly marginal reefs (meaning conditions there are less than ideal for reef growth) and actual development only occurs in the lee of the islands where they're shielded from the water flowing out of Florida Bay. The type of damage that occurred this winter has happened throughout the history of the Keys and is the reason that there are no reefs between the islands in the Middle Keys.
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Some say the sun rises in the East. Some say it rises in the West. The truth must be somewhere in the middle. Current Tank Info: tore them down to move and haven't had the time or money to set them back up Last edited by greenbean36191; 11/15/2010 at 12:14 PM. |
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#19 |
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ok greenbean, you've convinced me. i've installed the heater in the display and am slowly monitoring the temp increase. if i understand this correctly, given the wide range of corals i keep that certainly come from different varying regions of the world, the data suggests mean temps of 77. in keeping my temp lower, my hardy corals are fine, but are potentially being subjected to temp stress. for some reason, they are able to compensate and survive under these conditions, but if i up the temp slightly to the more optimal higher 70s range, they will likely be under less stress all things considered.
simply put of course, i'd be fine eating popsicles up north in an igloo, but i'd probably be ALOT more fine sitting on a beach drinking margueritas. got it! thanks.
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#20 | |
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#21 |
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haha drew1! are you trying to get me to change my mind again? just kiddin. so i did slowly up my temp in a day, is that too fast? anyways, i'm now averaging 75 (+/-2) degrees, compared to my averaging 73 (+/-2). not seeing much change in anything just yet. no specific responses from visual inspection. no signs of stress and no signs of happiness either from fish or corals. i saw more of the tiny collonista snails at night but could be unrelated.
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#22 |
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Not at all. I think you're on the right track. Going from 73 to 75 in a day is nothing. I wouldn't expect you to see much difference. I don't think you'll much negative response from anyone in the tank as long as you stay in that range.
Just adding my own personal diving experiences: Temperatures do vary greatly on reefs around the world. When I dove in Australia I too remember it being much cooler than expected. We were cold at the end of a dive with a wetsuit. I would have said bottom temperatures were in the mid-70's and it was spring (November, I think). However, we also snorkled some classic shallow water reefs (probably 6-10 feet deep) that were FULL of beautiful branching corals that were toasty. I'd guess mid 80's. East coast of Florida temperatures range from 60's to 80's, although alot of my diving there was not traditional coral reefs but rather cocina and worm-rock that had corals (soft corals for the most part) scattered about. Palm beach temperatures were always close to 80 for me. And my experiences in the Carribean always seemed to be in the upper 70's to low 80's. Obviously all my experiences are strictly anecdotal, but they do seem to support the mid-70 to mid-80 range that is typically refenced. |
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#23 | |
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i understand that we are trying to do the impossible here given that tolerance levels of different types of coral seem to be varied with respect to temperature but its still very interesting. when i went to the Toronto zoo, i found that their reef tanks didn't look as beautiful as many of the reef tanks posted here on RC, and even my tank looked more colorful. however, after thinking about it more, i think for educational purposes, they limited the tank's inhabitants to what would naturally be found in X region that the zoo was trying to mimic. meanwhile, our tanks have a variety of corals that come from many different parts of the world. i wonder if there are optimal temperatures for different types of coral or if they just happen to tolerate the temps of region Y or Z but would actually be happier in some optimal temp. i guess those questions might be too big for any of us to answer... i mean just because a particular species is evolutionarily adapted to cooler temps, does this necessarily mean that they would not be "happier" in warmer ones? bah, sorry for draggin this thread along... somebody shut me up please. i guess the other thing that got me interested was the TOTM a couple months ago where someone has a cool deep water reef and it got me thinking about temperature again.
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#24 |
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When I did most of my diving I was focussed on photography and simple life diversity. Corals were something you didn't touch, and maybe oohed and ahhed over after the dive, but really I didn't focus on the corals. I kept marine aquariums that had fish and inverts, but never corals. You could dive a 10 foot by 10 foot square for 30-60 minutes and not run out of stuff to see. Nudibranchs, bristle worms, polyps, sponges, crabs, shrimp, etc, etc within any given point on the reef. It's amazing how much divers overlook because they are in a hurry to go from point A to point B.
Another interesting point is that when diving I used to take a lot of pictures. When you look around during the dive eveything looks kind of brown and dingy. However, when the pictures come back (before the days of digital) they'd be full of reds and oranges! Lots of really pretty colors - sponges, encrusting corals, etc. Without a light (or flash) you'd never see the colors. Anyway, back to the question. The only thing I can really point to was the shallow reefs in Australia. Lots of branching SPS type corals and very warm temps. Do they like the temperature more, or is it the light? Or maybe the turbulance from the shallow water? Or maybe a specific combination. Deeper dives (less light, cooler temps - generally) tended to see more coral "heads" rather than branchy corals. In addition to the large brain corals were lots of encrusting corals, smaller soft corals, sponges, gorgonia, etc. But this is also the area I saw a greater diversity of life. Every coral head or basket sponge had it's own little micro-cosm. Anyway, again just my observations. |
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#25 | |
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i guess in the end if you consider that most of the time, the coloration isn't from the corals themselves but the zooxanthellae they host. i wonder what non-photosynthetic corals have that cause them to color up? man am i ever long winded.... stop encouraging me drew1 !!!
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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