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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Dallas, GA USA
Posts: 118
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Interested in feedback on my current build
I've been in the hobby about two years (90g reef and 30g cube reef for my wife). I'm currently putting together a 210g tank as a mixed reef in our master bedroom that will replace the 90g, and her cube will be plumbed into the same downstairs supporting equipment as the new tank. The equipment room will be in the basement directly under the display.
The equipment list, so far: New AGA 210RR tank 140g acrylic sump (built from a scratched display tank) Gen-X return (model PCX-100) MRC MR-4R skimmer and waste collector 72" Solaris 2x MP40W Reefkeeper Elite v2 (Net, SL2, 6x PC4s) Reef Fanatic ATO (may be replaced w/switches on the RKE) BRS dual media reactor (probably carbon/GFO) MRC kalk stirrer I also have a 2-chamber CA reactor and Milwaukee pH controller, but I don't recall the brand. First things first, I know I'll need more flow. More Vortechs are probably out of the budget, so I'll probably use my 2 Koralia Evo 1400s on the RKE wavemaker function to supplement. The auxillary tanks will be: 22.5 Oceanic remote deep sandbed 22.5 Oceanic refugium (really just for macroalgae), 4x24 T5HO Finnex for light 29g quarantine tank These will all be fed from a manifold (along with the media reactors), probably via a Mag 12 or similar. One specific item I'm seeking input on is my QT tank. My plan is this: Plumb it into the main system, with LR inside. It will be able to be isolated via ball valves. When a fish comes into quarantine, isolate the tank, turn on an appropriate size HOB filter (along with a heater) and quarantine the fish. This way the LR in the quarantine system is cycled all the time, and the tank is always ready to go. Assuming the fish "passes" QT, once the fish is placed in the DT the QT will be reconnected to the main system and it will be ready for its next use. If the fish has to be treated, then the QT will be taken down and cleaned, live rock either "nuked" or discarded (depending on what meds are used), and then either put new dry rock in or replace the original "cleaned" rock. I'd appreciate input on the setup, as well as on my plans for an "integrated" quarantine sytem... I'm confident in the arrangement as I envision it, but I want to discover any pitfalls that haven't occurred to me before I actually do it. Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,515
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You have to have pictures in a build thread.
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Exodus 8:2 Check my homepage for tank pics and details. Current Tank Info: 90 gallon, 2x maxspect R420R LED, 4 Ocellaris Clowns, Yellow Eye Kole Tang, Flame Angel, Foxface Rabbitfish, Banggai Cardinals, Azure Damsel, rock flower anemone, cleaner shrimp, serpent star |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 879
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i like the QT idea. however i do believe that tanks that receive copper treatment will leach copper for quite some time, so it would be better not to connect it directly.
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NY Reef Club Member "reefing is like religion, everyone has their opinion and way of practicing it, and because they feel that their way is the right way they insist on force their beliefs and practices on others." - Me Current Tank Info: 120g mixed reef. |
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#4 |
Craft Beer Geek
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: CT/NYC
Posts: 1,469
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Dallas, GA USA
Posts: 118
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Right now the pictures would be a little boring... an empty tank on a stand, and a stack of equipment in the basement!
As to the copper concern, I have a totally seperate tank that will be on standby as a hospital tank, where anything that needed to be treated with copper would be moved to. The "integrated QT" would be for fish that will most likely not need any treatment. For example, if a fish showed signs of ich, the hospital tank would be filled with water from the system, and the fish moved to it and then treated. It would be transferred back to the "main" QT once treatment was complete for further observation. You guys don't really want to see a stack of parts, do you? ![]() |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: The Salty D! Sandy let go of my eggo!
Posts: 1,962
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I LOVE looking at parts!!!
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Fish tanks and Chevys... And my cousin's Datsun too. Some call it paranoid. I call it prepared. You have more post than I do... You MUST be right then! |
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#7 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 17,289
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Don't do a connected QT. There is too much to risk having any plumbing connected. It isn't a QT if there is plumbing connected. Even if the fish doesn't appear sick it could be carrying something.
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Posts: 34
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From what I have heard copper will always remain in the qt tank even if cleaned as well as can be. If you use hypo you might be alright. I am sure a expert will be along shortly with his input as I ain't one. Pic do help. Wish I had the time to take that photo LOL.
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#9 |
Craft Beer Geek
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: CT/NYC
Posts: 1,469
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Pichers, pichers, pichers.....!
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#10 | |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 17,289
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Quote:
Thats an urban myth but not the reason not to have a plumbed in QT.
__________________
Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
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