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01/31/2011, 09:24 PM | #1 |
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Location: Dallas, TX
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What type of fish do I need?
Hi,
I bought a used tank a couple of months ago. Everything has been running well, and all of the livestock that came with the tank is looking great. I am still having a few problems though and after reading some posts, I thought I could probably get a fish to act as a clean up crew to take care of everything. So before I head to my LFS tomorrow I was wondering what I should look for, so my question is this... What type of fish eats all kinds of algae, cyanobacteria, detritus, aiptasia, majano, bristleworms, ick, all types of fungus, nuisance crabs, and flatworms? It would need to be pretty, because my wife does not like me to put ugly things in the tank. It also can't be territorial and mess with the other fish, my invertebrates, or bother my corals. And under $20, cause my budget is tight... Thanks in advance for your help. Ok, sorry, I just needed a break from the daily requisite 4 hours of reading RC... Another 6 months and I think I might start to get the hang of this. Seriously thanks for all of the real posts that are on here, and sorry for wasting that 60 seconds of your life. Those are all of my real problems, but all of the answers are here, if I could only focus on one topic long enough... the cool tanks builds and colorful pictures are so distracting.
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Newbie - 90 Gallon that I bought used and is full of problems - it is fun trying to fix them though, getting there - one step at a time. |
01/31/2011, 09:28 PM | #2 |
Molon Labe
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does not exist.
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secesh |
01/31/2011, 09:30 PM | #3 |
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Nice, very nice
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01/31/2011, 09:41 PM | #4 |
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maintaining good water quality will take care of your cyno/algae problem. aptasia and majano can be removed with kalk paste or joe's juice. bristle worms are good scavengers. ich is a touchy subject use the search function for this.....i personally do nothing but feed well and keep the water clean and it eventually goes away er subsides.
as for crabs....i manually caught the ones i had in my tank. one thing u can so is take a tall glass cup and place it in the sand with rocks about its (kinda like a volcano with the cup in the center) and place a silverside or some other meaty food. crabs being most active at night will climb the rock pile and get into the cup to eat and will get stuck inside provided the walls of the cup are slick. and for flatworms there are a number of methods u can use like buying a specific type of wrasse or using drugs that target flatworms. again using the search function will give u access to threads that can help u know how and what to get this taken care of. david
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NY Reef Club Member "reefing is like religion, everyone has their opinion and way of practicing it, and because they feel that their way is the right way they insist on force their beliefs and practices on others." - Me Current Tank Info: 120g mixed reef. |
01/31/2011, 09:59 PM | #5 |
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Thanks THEDLO,
Reading, reading, reading. it seems there is no shortage of really great info here. Luckily, I got the Tang with ick out quickly and into a hospital tank. He is 3 weeks in hypo now, and have not seen any ick since his 2nd day in. No one else ever showed any sings of it. I am thinking one or two more weeks and he can start to come back up to regular salinity. I wish I had followed my inital instinct when I decided to get back into the hobby, which was to nuke the tank and start fresh. I got a great deal on a nice used tank, but the hidden cost of time and frustration makes me question the value. I guess I would have come across most of these problems eventually, and I am getting a great crash course in reefkeeping. I am starting to feel like I am making the transition from "newbie" to "just ignorant"... another month and hopefully I graduate to "sucker with money to spend" then by the summer I can move up to "Novice".
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Newbie - 90 Gallon that I bought used and is full of problems - it is fun trying to fix them though, getting there - one step at a time. |
01/31/2011, 11:53 PM | #6 |
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HAHA the that last part greatly amused me
as for ur tang. its going to get ich again once its back in the main tank. things to do; nothing, treat the whole tank, or cross your fingers and hope your tang overcomes the ich that will come (this is possible but not with our a few sleepless nights).
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NY Reef Club Member "reefing is like religion, everyone has their opinion and way of practicing it, and because they feel that their way is the right way they insist on force their beliefs and practices on others." - Me Current Tank Info: 120g mixed reef. |
02/01/2011, 07:05 AM | #7 |
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THEDLO,
Why the assumption that he will get it again when he goes back to the main tank? Am I doing something wrong in QT? I have read everything from 4 weeks, to forever in hypo, but the general consensus from what i read was 4 to 6 weeks. I figured I would split the difference and go 5. Should I keep him there longer?
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Newbie - 90 Gallon that I bought used and is full of problems - it is fun trying to fix them though, getting there - one step at a time. |
02/01/2011, 07:32 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
THEDLO may be saying your tang will get ich not because of your QT time but the fact that you initially noticed it in your DT. Meaning the parasite could still be thriving in your DT, and will affect your tang once it returns to the DT. HTH!
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55g column style, 10g sump/refugium, 40 lbs LS, 40+ lbs LR, AI Sol Blue, Midas Blenny, Tomato Clownfish, peppermint shrimp, astrea snails, cerith snails, nessarious snails, dwarf hermits |
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02/01/2011, 10:28 AM | #9 |
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Bummer... so, in my reading, it looked like if there were no signs of ick after about 6 weeks, it was very likely gone... you think not so?
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Newbie - 90 Gallon that I bought used and is full of problems - it is fun trying to fix them though, getting there - one step at a time. |
02/01/2011, 11:29 AM | #10 | |
Topsy Turvy Child
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Quote:
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02/01/2011, 12:56 PM | #11 |
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Oh Joy... Well, I guess if he goes back in and it looks like it is back, I will have to get a bigger QT and put the lot of them in there. I have had my 90 for almost 3 months now, so it is about time to step up to something bigger anyway. Maybe buy a 240 and use it as my qt for a couple of months, then put them back into the 90 after it has had a chance to be fishless for a couple of months, then since I already have it, I can get the 240 up and running. Sounds like a good plan, now to get the wife on board. It is after all "for the fish".
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Newbie - 90 Gallon that I bought used and is full of problems - it is fun trying to fix them though, getting there - one step at a time. |
02/01/2011, 01:12 PM | #12 |
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under 20..i would say sea urchants..your best choice..
otherwise...if you go cheap thats what happens.. |
02/01/2011, 01:24 PM | #13 |
cats and large squashes
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You don't want your bristle worms eaten - they are beneficial to your system.
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Marie So long, & thanks for all the fish! __________________________ Current Tank Info: Pairs: flame angels, cherub angels, Red Sea mimic blennies, yellow fin fairy wrasses, clowns, mandarins, blackcap basslets, shrimp gobies, damsels, dispar anthias, yellow clown gobies, threadfin cardinals --- Tanks: 100g reef, 2 x 30g refugiums |
02/01/2011, 01:36 PM | #14 | |
oxygen abuser
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Quote:
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-Mike Tankless wonder Geaux Noles! |
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02/01/2011, 01:37 PM | #15 | |
oxygen abuser
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Quote:
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-Mike Tankless wonder Geaux Noles! |
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02/01/2011, 02:05 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
it eats alge's but lately its been trying to eat off my live rocks.. |
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02/02/2011, 09:29 AM | #17 |
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thanks for claering tha up for me PMUnprotected.
what tang do u have not sure if u said the sp.
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NY Reef Club Member "reefing is like religion, everyone has their opinion and way of practicing it, and because they feel that their way is the right way they insist on force their beliefs and practices on others." - Me Current Tank Info: 120g mixed reef. |
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