Tips You Might Not Find in a Book...

[CalmSeasQuest]

They say experience is the best teacher. I'm sure everyone has come across or developed ways to make a maintenance process easier, faster - or just less of a hassle. Or a simply DIY solution to problems that can plague most any Marine Aquarist.

I thought it might be of value to create a place where we can collect all those "pearls of wisdom" so that others might benefit. I'll start off with a few to get the ball rolling...

Heat Can Be Your Friend
When cleaning pumps, probes or virtually anything covered in calcium or mineral deposits - You can dramatically decrease the time it takes for vinegar to dissolve the calcium deposits by warming it (I simply stick it in the microwave.) The same holds true when mixing 2-parts solutions. While Calcium (Calcium Chloride) dissolves readily, Alk (Sodium Carbonate or Soda Ash) and Magnesium (Magnesium Chloride and Magnesium Sulfate) can be tougher to mix and prone to clumping. Once again, simply warm the water and the material will dissolve mush faster.

Ziploc Silence Method
I found an easy method to quiet a noisy overflow. Simply "drape" an appropriate size Ziploc bag immediately behind it. (easily secured at the top with a couple of zip ties.) The causes the water to run between the overflow and and the Ziploc bag in total silence... It also is self adjusting and requires little if any maintenance. I've had an overflow fitted with the same Ziploc for almost 2 years.

Extending the Life of Your DI Resin
The life of your DI resin depends on the quality of the water it's being fed. One challenge is TDS Creep. RO Membranes produce the lowest TDS water at higher pressures. When an RO is turned off, the pressure around the membrane drops and it allows much lower quality water to pass through and on to your DI resin. There are a couple of easy solutions to this problem that can eliminate or reduce the negative impact on your DI resin...

• Longer Run Times
  It's better to makes as much water as possible in one session, rather than frequent, smaller volume sessions. This will lessen the amount of TDS creep, extend the life of your RO membrane and that of your DI resin. If you're using a shutoff float - change your floats to support a "latching" arrangement allowing for longer runs.
  
  
• Bypass your DI for a few minutes when you first start up your RO
  Split the line between your RO and DI and install a valve. Run the bypass line (the one with the valve) down the drain. When you first start your RO, open the DI bypass valve and allow the high TDS water to go down the drain (or use it for anything other than your reef - even as drinking water as it's far better than whats comes out of your tap.) This enables you to run your RO for a few minutes, eliminating high-TDS water and extending the life of your DI Resin.

If you have a TDS meter between your DO and DI, you can monitor how quickly the TDS drops and know when to close the valve and allow water to flow to your DI resin. My RO/DI goes from an initial reading of ~90TDS, down to about 2TDS over the course of 5 minutes.


OK - You get the idea. Lets see your solutions to everyday challenges

[mnml]

Tom

Thanks for posting this. I never knew that the temp of sthe water can help the mix faster. Will give it a go.

[Girly Gears]

Could you post a pic of the ziplock bag trick? I have a feeling if I try it with out one there's gonna be a flood!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by Girly Gears

Could you post a pic of the ziplock bag trick? I have a feeling if I try it with out one there's gonna be a flood!

Sure - Here you go

It doesn't have to be a Ziploc bag, it's just what I had handy. You could use any type of inert, thin plastic sheet. There's no risk of overflow as the plastic is placed inside the overflow and only affixed at the top. It moves in response to changes in water flow. At all flow rates, my overflow is now completely silent. There is no sound of moving water whatsoever

[b85511]

I like the zip lock idea. Some simple ideas work the best and usually are cost effective.

[Fish4Me2]

I'll add one tip that's worked for me:

Cleaning filter socks
As you change out filter socks, wash the dirty ones off with a hose, and store in an empty salt bucket. Keeping the lid on the bucket will reduce the smell. When you've gathered 5 or 10, run them through the washing machine on the double rinse cycle, with no detergent. Air dry (you can use the salt bucket again, just without the lid). Presto: nice clean filter socks, with minimum work.

The real tip here might actually be: after you run the filter socks, run a load of old towels with bleach, so there's no smell left that your spouse might notice!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by Fish4Me2

I'll add one tip that's worked for me:

Cleaning filter socks

Thanks Fish4Me2

I do largely the same. I seal them in a large baggie until I've got enough to wash, then add a bit of bleach to the wash cycle with 2 rinse cycles. Air dry and quick rinse in RO/DI just prior to use.

[CalmSeasQuest]

• Costco sells inexpensive, 5 liter jugs of vinegar
  
• Walmart is the cheapest source for nitrile gloves I've found thus far.
  
• Bamboo skewers (like those used for shish-kabob) are very handy for cleaning pumps, skimmers, filters... They allow you to reach and scrape hard to get at places but are soft enough not to scratch or scar.
  
• When working with epoxy to affix rocks or frags, it helps to press the item into the epoxy to make an "impression", then use cyanoacrylate (super glue) to instantly adhere the rock or frag to the epoxy while it cures.
  
• Anyone interested in photography should not purchase a bowfront or curved panel tank as the glass bends distort the image and resulting photos.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Over time, airlines used in Durso drains can become partially blocked by salt creep and/or mineral deposits. This can reduce the amount of air allowed into the drain thereby reducing the capacity of the drain, causing surging and an increase in noise. There are methods to correct this without having to remove the airline (often difficult if your Durso is buried deep in an overflow.)

• Pour small amounts of hot water down the airline. This typically dissolves the blockage and cures the problem.
  
• For more stubborn blockages, a straightened coat hangar can be used to "ream" the airline and restore it's capacity.

[pimp4cheddar]

I like the Ziplock idea...but instead of using that I opted for a piece of foam.

Since my overflow is black and so it the plumbing...I wedge a few pieces of black foam around the pipe and VOLIA...no more splashing.

I'll take some pics when I get home.



Also -
- I just realized I could use a Maxi Jet for water changes (why didn't I think of it 2 years ago). Just stick the powerhead on the end of the hose...and no more having to suck water from the hose. Works even better when adding freshly mixed water back into the tank.
- If you have space behind the tank...use a magfloat to clean the back of the glass. Helps reduce the amount of coralina algae on the back glass.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Here's another use of ZipLoc bags - When removing calcium deposits from parts such as pump impellers, I simply warm vinegar in a microwave, place the parts in a gallon size ZipLoc bag and add the vinegar. Evacuate the air and seal the bag.

This allows for 100% coverage of the parts while using far less vinegar than normally required if soaking in a bowl or bucket. It also largely eliminates the lingering smell of vinegar.

[gary faulkner]

Great tips!

[Habu]

Good stuff thanks!

[highhopes592003]

Sure do thank you all for the tips.

[Lynnmw1208]

you just may be my savior with the ziploc bag trick! thank you!!

[purge43]

Draining skimmer cup. My skimmer drain plug is below the top of my sump, so I used to have to hold a cup inside my sump under the plug to let out the junk or pull off the collection cup, which alot of time made a mess or I spilled the junk back into the sump. I put an air line in the bottom of the collection cup and used a clothes pin to hold it in place. I draped the air line up over the top of the sump and down to a bucket on the floor. Below the level of the cup and outside the sump (close to the top of the bucket) I put a Tee and on the one side of the Tee I plugged in a syringe. Now when I drain my collection cup all I have to do is draw back on the syringe and it begins a syphon which drains the cup.

[CalmSeasQuest]

When using any liquid measured in drops (i.e. liquid test kit reagents) a simply way to make controlling the drops easier, is to squeeze the bottle slightly - then while inverting, release the pressure.

This creates a slight vacuum in the bottle and prevents drops from forming before you're ready.

[dogstar74]

To keep salt from "caking" Once you find the correct weight per gallon of salt mix to get the right SG, then divide the remainder of the bucket, bag, etc into the exact sizes. Mixing the bucket or bag up once and figuring out the correct weight to make the right SG adds stability.

For example, I always do a 4 gallon water change. The last bag of instant ocean measured 700g of salt mix to make 1.026 water.

So I split the bag up in batches of 700g and sealed them in bags with a seal a meal. This prevented caking from absorbed H2O from the air.

Makes water changes wicked fast too.

HTH
Aaron

[CalmSeasQuest]

While recently servicing my RO/DO, I took a few minutes to observe the impact input pressure had on it's performance.

• ~350 TDS, softened well water
• BRS 75 GPD 6 stage RO/DI.
• Water pressure ranges from 35 - 60 PSI (depending on accumulator charge)

At 35 PSI, the RO generates 4 TDS water
At 60 PSI, the RO generates 2 TDS water
I haven't done a time comparison, but it's obviously much faster at higher pressures.

As a result, I am installing a boost pump as doing so will at least double the life of my DI resin - Perhaps even more when operating above 60 PSI.

As the DI resin is usually the most expensive component of making zero-TDS water, the pump investment will quickly be recovered with the additional benefit of making more water over less time.

[Rytek]

You guys are full of info. Thanx for posting.

[Bongo Shrimp]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

• Anyone interested in photography should not purchase a bowfront or curved panel tank as the glass bends distort the image and resulting photos.

I Hate my biocubes for this. It is so intensely annoying!

[DoubleM 10]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

Here's another use of ZipLoc bags - When removing calcium deposits from parts such as pump impellers, I simply warm vinegar in a microwave, place the parts in a gallon size ZipLoc bag and add the vinegar. Evacuate the air and seal the bag.

This allows for 100% coverage of the parts while using far less vinegar than normally required if soaking in a bowl or bucket. It also largely eliminates the lingering smell of vinegar.

you work for ziplock??? lol jkjk

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by DoubleM 10

you work for ziplock??? lol jkjk

No, but I should probably get some sort of commission - I go through so many of em

[donkeys4hire]

I used an old kiddie cup upside down over the overflow pipe. Works like the ziploc.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Just installed the boost pump and set the pressure to 80 PSI (recommended to extend the life of the seals.) RO product water now 1 TDS (a 300% improvement, cross checked inline meter with handheld.) Although I haven't done a timed measurement, I'd estimate water production has more than doubled.

Prior to installation of the boost pump, my pressure ranged from 35~60 PSI depending on the accumulator charge, producing water averaging ~3 TDS from the RO. This should about triple the performance/longevity of my DI resin.