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02/11/2011, 10:20 PM | #1 |
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Dying anemone?
My bubble tip anemone has been slowly going downhill for the past few months. Apparently my clownfish stopped feeding it and they just recently started breeding and are subsequently beating the nem up to try and get it to move away from their chosen egg-laying spot. The nem's color has gone from a healthy tan to a sickly, ghosty greenish white. I've been trying to feed it but it won't even grab onto/close up over the food. It just lets it float away. I also think it's sticky stingers are gone because I can put my finger in the tentacles and feel absolutely nothing. It still reacts when pestered and it reacts slightly to changes in light, but not nearly as much as it used to. Is there a way to save it? When do I know it's time to just take it out and bury it?
Here are some "before" and "after pics to show the color difference. I really appreciate any help or suggestions! Thanks in advance!
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02/11/2011, 10:35 PM | #2 |
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Im not sure but i think the "after" pix look much better than the "before" pix. IMO
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02/12/2011, 12:14 AM | #3 |
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the after pic is bleached
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02/12/2011, 12:50 AM | #4 |
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feed it some mysis just in case and make sure its getting enough light... just to see if that makes a difference because clowns usually lay eggs under nems for safety
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02/12/2011, 08:19 AM | #5 |
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What lights do you have on your tank?
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02/12/2011, 08:37 AM | #6 |
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Is the mouth open or closed, he looks fine to me.
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02/12/2011, 08:49 AM | #7 |
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ANenome?
Hi KrazedKazoo ; I would try and cover your bubble with a net to stop the clowns from harrassing it. If that does not work maybe you can make some holes in a clear plastic container to go over your nem and hold it in place with some pieces live rock . The Bleaching will stop if you can get your bubble to eat again . Feed every third day a piece of ocean caught red salmon or whatever you it likes..... I nursed my green bubble back after bleaching... It can be saved. You must stop the clowns from getting to it so it will feed again.... Good Luck and keep us posted.
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02/12/2011, 09:32 AM | #8 |
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They don't really need to "eat" per se if your lights are adequate, although I do feed mine just to encourage growth. Agree we need to know lighting. Usually pretty obvious when they're tanking typically they expel there stomach and shrivel up before they become a gooey mess. I have one right now that is expelling his stomach from a fed ex delay of 2 days
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02/12/2011, 09:46 AM | #9 |
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I feed mine silverside frozen fish two-three times a month. I don't just count on the clowns to do that. secondly light is important.
Ray |
02/12/2011, 10:45 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Don't worry about making it eat, just keep the water clean, don't change the flow pattern or the lighting cycle. Stability and rest are the two most important things.
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02/12/2011, 10:58 AM | #11 |
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Check your water parameters. The clowns shouldn't be the cause of this. As long as your lighting is adequate you shouldn't have to worry about the clowns feeding it directly since they will poop in it and it will eat the poop. I would do a couple 20-25% water changes this week. How long have you had the nem?
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02/12/2011, 03:09 PM | #12 |
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To everyone, I have PC lights on my tank. Here is a link to the exact product ( http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewit...ontent=CU01023 ). The bulb has recently been replaced within the past couple months. The anemone is not shaded and gets direct light from the appliance most of the day. I have had this nem for about a year and it seems like it started losing it's tan color halfway through.
Some facts to maybe help clarify: 1. My lighting are power compacts (see link above for exact product) with recently replaced bulbs. I have read/been told that BTAs can live under my lighting system just fine. If that is not the case, I do not have the funds to buy a more expensive lighting system. 2. I used to hand feed it before the clownfish began hosting. They will now drag food to it but it REFUSES to close up or grab hold. The food floats away, clownfish drag it back, repeat, repeat. It's diet so far has been brine shrimp and normal flake food. 3. The clownfish have been laying eggs very close to the nem which I know is normal. However, they lay them on top (instead of under) and then bite and pull the nem's tentacles to keep it shrunken away from the eggs. 4. The nem is not deflated and I have not seen an exposed stomach yet. Sounds like the best bet is just covering it with a plastic container or net (to keep clowns off) and maybe trying to feed it silversides? It is not holding on to any food so I don't know if silversides are the answer here. Thanks for all the input!
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I'm a starving artist. Current Tank Info: 40g reef,1 clown, 2 firefish, 1 flame hawk, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 yellow watchman, various soft corals. |
02/13/2011, 09:53 AM | #13 |
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Bump now that light info is up.
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I'm a starving artist. Current Tank Info: 40g reef,1 clown, 2 firefish, 1 flame hawk, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 yellow watchman, various soft corals. |
02/13/2011, 11:16 AM | #14 |
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The lights you have should be sufficient for a BTA. I'm not sure why it looks so bleached.
Have you tested your water parameters lately? Nitrates are never good for nems. You can also post this in the anemone forum where you might get responses from some successful long-time anemone owners. |
02/13/2011, 02:22 PM | #15 |
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I would recommend T5s or Halides for anemones.
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02/13/2011, 02:47 PM | #16 |
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02/13/2011, 05:15 PM | #17 |
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suppliment feed it see if it comes back.. i would say pc if the nem is high in tank would be ok... and feed it mysis or krill i and a few others have had bad luck with silver sides on bta
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02/13/2011, 06:02 PM | #18 |
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FWIW, I keep BTAs under much less light - and much more. Ones kept at the low end of the light spectrum need to be fed more to compensate. I think we should look at what was going on when it bleached. Perhaps aging lamps before the change started its decline.
Isolating it from the clowns harassment is probably a good idea. Keep feeding it - or at least trying. Shrimp, fish - anything meaty. I see many grab spirulina flakes that pass by. Try a variety until it accepts something. I don't think you posted chem yet - low Ca/KH or elevated PO4 could be a problem. At least the 'nem can retract from their nips. My tomato pair just rolled a 20 head bicolor frogspawn over TWICE from its spot - over a foot away. Right on top of my high end zoas. Nice.
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