Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Reef Discussion
Blogs FAQ Calendar

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 02/13/2011, 10:35 AM   #1
vexeclipse2007
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 506
How long till I can put fish in? Fish all died from ich

My trigger died 2 days ago and my tang just died today...So how long do I have to be fishless for? Can I get a fish right away???? I'm thinking about another trigger since my lfs has them...NO MORE TANGS for us


vexeclipse2007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/13/2011, 10:37 AM   #2
coralfish
Premium Member
 
coralfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hardmoney, KY
Posts: 750
What is alive in the tank right now? You could raise the temp and speed up the cyrpto cycle, as long as you don't have any inverts or corals. General rule is ~ 6 weeks. Also you might want to consider a QT, no fish straight from the pet store into the display tank!


__________________
One leg missing and both hands free.

Current Tank Info: 220 Reef
coralfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/13/2011, 10:42 AM   #3
vexeclipse2007
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 506
we do have corals and a cleaner shrimp in there...i guess we will wait to add another fish lol


vexeclipse2007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/13/2011, 10:46 AM   #4
coralfish
Premium Member
 
coralfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hardmoney, KY
Posts: 750
QT is the best solution for this...also really look at the fish before you buy them, make sure the look healthy; no skin problems, full looking bellies (not sunk in), no spots, rot, tears, or blemishes on the fins, no cloudy eyes, breathing normal, and swimming normal (no darting from top/bottom or side to side (unless this is what they do naturally), and eating (be there during feeding time to see who eats and who doesn't or ask the LFS person to give them some food).

Also make sure that your display tank parameters are consistent; no temp fluctuations more than 1 degree per day, no large pH changes per day, SG is consistent and that you are doing regular water changes. NO STRESS on the display tank is also key (but you probably already know this).


__________________
One leg missing and both hands free.

Current Tank Info: 220 Reef
coralfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/13/2011, 10:51 AM   #5
snorvich
Team RC member
 
snorvich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Outlander
Posts: 40,953
Blog Entries: 46
Good advice from coralfish. The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go.

Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates.

This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts.

By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.


__________________
Warmest regards,
~Steve~
snorvich is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/13/2011, 11:00 AM   #6
coralfish
Premium Member
 
coralfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hardmoney, KY
Posts: 750
Quote:
By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.
True, a cleaner shrimp will have no effect on crypto (after it burrows under the skin), unless is digs into the fish's skin; (which the fish will never allow). Cleaners are great for some of the parasites that attach to the slime coating or skin, but not under it.

Killing crypto while it is in the swimming stage is effective; or by it not finding a host and starving.


__________________
One leg missing and both hands free.

Current Tank Info: 220 Reef
coralfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/13/2011, 11:03 AM   #7
vexeclipse2007
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 506
i'll just wait a month or 2 before adding fish...ill do this the proper way


vexeclipse2007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY fish trap scubadan1989 Do It Yourself 5 01/03/2011 09:54 AM
Fish growth + Limiting factors Qs AaronM Reef Discussion 20 07/28/2010 03:44 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2025 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2025 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.