Loc-Line Question

OregonReefer · 02/25/2011, 08:49 PM

I know this is a total noob question but I have yet to decide if I'm going to drill my sump return or go over the top.

If loc-line is used on a drilled (through the back) sump return will the loc-line slowly leak water until it gets down to the bulkhead or can an effective break be created with loc-line?

I know I could do an elbow at the bulkhead with an up pipe and all that but what about the loc-line straight into the bulkhead?

iamwrasseman · 02/25/2011, 09:03 PM

the loc line does seal very well and i would not worry about it leaking . just drill the tank 2" from the top and dont sink the return end to deep into the water coloum and you will be all set .

Lynnmw1208 · 02/25/2011, 10:26 PM

I have an elbow on mine connecting to the return line. I got a threaded bulkhead so the loc-line screwed into the bulkhead. I also have a rubber gasket on the outside of the tank under the bulkhead lip. doesn't leak since i used teflon tape on the threads.

oh and I would definitely drill your tank. I am so glad I did it instead of using an over the top overflow box. I got my kit at glass holes.com both overflow and return and I'm really happy with them

OregonReefer · 02/26/2011, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynnmw1208

I have an elbow on mine connecting to the return line. I got a threaded bulkhead so the loc-line screwed into the bulkhead. I also have a rubber gasket on the outside of the tank under the bulkhead lip. doesn't leak since i used teflon tape on the threads.

oh and I would definitely drill your tank. I am so glad I did it instead of using an over the top overflow box. I got my kit at glass holes.com both overflow and return and I'm really happy with them

I have a glass-holes overflow box too. No worries there

I was/am worried about the return as in: If I'm gone for the weekend and the power goes out.

While wrasseman has removed some of the worry I just can't see how these things are "water tight"

Lets say I have the return setup the way wrasseman says... Which would be my preferred method for the sump return...

In a power failure the tank drains to the loc-line nozzle, as expected, and then stops draining

After that is the loc-line going to slowly leak into the sump until the water level reaches the bulkhead?

Meaning: do I need to count on whatever is under my tank to hold an extra 6-12ish gallons of water in an emergency situation that I can't attend to right away?

I'm probably worrying about it more than I need to but my wife would KILL me if I ruined the new carpet, tile, and flooring while we where at the beach for the weekend...

Lynnmw1208 · 02/26/2011, 12:49 AM

What I did is make sure the nozzle opening is in line with the bottom of the teeth on the overflow box. I have the flare nozzles on mine. This way when you turn off the pump the water will drain only to that point and stop. I did drill mine a little low, but I can twist the loc-lines in place where I want them so it's no biggie for me. The loc-lines I received are very tight fit and I can hardly move them myself so I don't really worry about water getting between the joints if that's worrying you. I do have a small drip behind the tank on the outside where the threads are despite teflon tape, but I plan on getting some mighty putty to stop that and I should be good. Just be sure to not tighten the return lines too tight against the rubber gasket because then it pops the gasket out of alignment and I could foresee that being an issue.

Did you get the return kit from glass holes as well?

Here's a pic to show you where mine are, as you can see i had to twist them upwards. I did a shut off test and it was ok

OregonReefer · 02/26/2011, 01:26 AM

LOL... why didn't I think to make the question so simple

Yes, I'm worried about leakage through the joints in the loc-line.

I haven't bought the plumbing for my return kit yet.

You have a very similar system to what I'm building...

Lynnmw1208 · 02/26/2011, 09:23 AM

Yeah I wouldn't worry about it leaking through the loc-line joints. Like I said they are pretty tight and hard to move actually. I really liked the fact that glass holes came with kits you could get, it make it so much easier when everything comes together.

02/25/2011, 08:49 PM	#1
OregonReefer Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 629	Loc-Line Question I know this is a total noob question but I have yet to decide if I'm going to drill my sump return or go over the top. If loc-line is used on a drilled (through the back) sump return will the loc-line slowly leak water until it gets down to the bulkhead or can an effective break be created with loc-line? I know I could do an elbow at the bulkhead with an up pipe and all that but what about the loc-line straight into the bulkhead? __________________ 120g drilled, 30G sump, 20g Fuge, RO NWB200 Skimmer, Glass Holes Overflow, mag 12.0 return, Reeflo Dart closed loop, 6-bulb Sunlight Tek

02/25/2011, 09:03 PM	#2
iamwrasseman Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: syracuse Posts: 7,003	the loc line does seal very well and i would not worry about it leaking . just drill the tank 2" from the top and dont sink the return end to deep into the water coloum and you will be all set . __________________ This hobby certainly can put you in some weird positions ! Dave Current Tank Info: 40 freshwater,25saltwater 2000 gallons ,enough tanks for an army ?

02/25/2011, 10:26 PM	#3
Lynnmw1208 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Brunswick, Ohio Posts: 3,306	I have an elbow on mine connecting to the return line. I got a threaded bulkhead so the loc-line screwed into the bulkhead. I also have a rubber gasket on the outside of the tank under the bulkhead lip. doesn't leak since i used teflon tape on the threads. oh and I would definitely drill your tank. I am so glad I did it instead of using an over the top overflow box. I got my kit at glass holes.com both overflow and return and I'm really happy with them __________________ equipment: Eshopps psk-200 skimmer, Mag 12 pump, 30gal sump, 2x 300w Finnex heaters, glass-holes 1500gph overflow kit with 3/4" return kits, 72" 8x36w t-5 AquaticLife light, 66lbs of LR, 150lbs of tropic eden reeflakes, 2 Koralia Evo 1400, JBJ ATO, BRS dual GFO/carbon reactors, Hydor smartwave Current Tank Info: 125gallon

02/26/2011, 12:49 AM	#5
Lynnmw1208 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Brunswick, Ohio Posts: 3,306	What I did is make sure the nozzle opening is in line with the bottom of the teeth on the overflow box. I have the flare nozzles on mine. This way when you turn off the pump the water will drain only to that point and stop. I did drill mine a little low, but I can twist the loc-lines in place where I want them so it's no biggie for me. The loc-lines I received are very tight fit and I can hardly move them myself so I don't really worry about water getting between the joints if that's worrying you. I do have a small drip behind the tank on the outside where the threads are despite teflon tape, but I plan on getting some mighty putty to stop that and I should be good. Just be sure to not tighten the return lines too tight against the rubber gasket because then it pops the gasket out of alignment and I could foresee that being an issue. Did you get the return kit from glass holes as well? Here's a pic to show you where mine are, as you can see i had to twist them upwards. I did a shut off test and it was ok __________________ equipment: Eshopps psk-200 skimmer, Mag 12 pump, 30gal sump, 2x 300w Finnex heaters, glass-holes 1500gph overflow kit with 3/4" return kits, 72" 8x36w t-5 AquaticLife light, 66lbs of LR, 150lbs of tropic eden reeflakes, 2 Koralia Evo 1400, JBJ ATO, BRS dual GFO/carbon reactors, Hydor smartwave Current Tank Info: 125gallon

02/26/2011, 01:26 AM	#6
OregonReefer Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 629	LOL... why didn't I think to make the question so simple Yes, I'm worried about leakage through the joints in the loc-line. I haven't bought the plumbing for my return kit yet. You have a very similar system to what I'm building... __________________ 120g drilled, 30G sump, 20g Fuge, RO NWB200 Skimmer, Glass Holes Overflow, mag 12.0 return, Reeflo Dart closed loop, 6-bulb Sunlight Tek

02/26/2011, 09:23 AM	#7
Lynnmw1208 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Brunswick, Ohio Posts: 3,306	Yeah I wouldn't worry about it leaking through the loc-line joints. Like I said they are pretty tight and hard to move actually. I really liked the fact that glass holes came with kits you could get, it make it so much easier when everything comes together. __________________ equipment: Eshopps psk-200 skimmer, Mag 12 pump, 30gal sump, 2x 300w Finnex heaters, glass-holes 1500gph overflow kit with 3/4" return kits, 72" 8x36w t-5 AquaticLife light, 66lbs of LR, 150lbs of tropic eden reeflakes, 2 Koralia Evo 1400, JBJ ATO, BRS dual GFO/carbon reactors, Hydor smartwave Current Tank Info: 125gallon

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