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Unread 03/09/2011, 09:15 AM   #1
CloudIX
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Solaris issue, replacement LED's sold out!

Well i know not many people have the solaris light's, but those who do have a BIG problem. The LXK2-PWC4-0180 emitters that everyone has been using to replace the burnt out one's are no longer avail. Ledsupply was the last place i knew that had them and they are sold out. The only ones they have left are the star mounted ones that will not work with the solaris. Trying to unmount the emitters from the star requires a special oven.

Looks like I have no choice but to make a custom board that would use the star mounted type emitters. That would not be a big deal but I cant find the connector to make a direct swap. I know that i could reuse the factory connector, but i want to have replacement's ready to go when they burn out. Here is a pic of the connector if anyone knows where I can get it.


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File Type: jpg Connector.jpg (23.5 KB, 12 views)
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Unread 03/09/2011, 10:11 AM   #2
jtrasap
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Have you tried Newark?

www.newark.com


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Unread 03/09/2011, 10:24 AM   #3
CloudIX
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Yes, i looked on there, they don't have K2 that are bright enough. Thanks for the suggestion. As far as the connector goes, I'm not sure what this one would be called. I poked around on there but didn't see it.


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Unread 03/09/2011, 10:33 AM   #4
NeveSSL
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http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...vwrZ9gZg%3d%3d

This one is close, but I don't think its 100% right. It may be close enough, though. It does have the right polarization things on it.

I'll dig around more later and see if I can find an exact part.

Also, note that the picture is only on that page for "illustrative purposes". It shows a much higher pin count than the obvious 4 that you need.

Brandon


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Unread 03/09/2011, 10:37 AM   #5
Pickupman66
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is that a 4 pin molex plug? or 8 pin? how big is it? or rather how much room do you have to work with?


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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:07 AM   #6
NeveSSL
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Its a 4 pin, Lindsey. And I thought it might be molex as well, but others have suggested it could be tyco, which also makes sense.

Probably the most important question is pin spacing. Anyone know that one?

Brandon


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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:07 AM   #7
Pickupman66
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Tyco does sound better to me. wasnt sure about the bottom notches.


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15 years reef keeping experience in old school simplistic ways.
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Current Tank Info: 66 Gallon SCA Rimless, Custom 40 Breeder sump, DC pumps, Lumentek Pro 240 controlled by my Archon
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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:09 AM   #8
NeveSSL
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I thought Tyco looked right, too. Those notches in the bottom are what are throwing me, too, as far as finding an exact match. I've got a feeling there are a couple of different ones that will work, so long as you're careful with polarity. The pin spacing on it is probably nothing special.

Brandon


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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:14 AM   #9
CloudIX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeveSSL View Post
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...vwrZ9gZg%3d%3d

This one is close, but I don't think its 100% right. It may be close enough, though. It does have the right polarization things on it.

I'll dig around more later and see if I can find an exact part.

Also, note that the picture is only on that page for "illustrative purposes". It shows a much higher pin count than the obvious 4 that you need.

Brandon
That connector looks like the flat connector that connects the audio to the sound card on a CD-ROM drive. I know that one will not work in this application.


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Current Tank Info: 240 gallon with a 80 gal sump. 400w Solaris lighting, MR-3 skimmer, Reeflow barracuda pump. 2 mp40w es
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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:17 AM   #10
CloudIX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeveSSL View Post
I thought Tyco looked right, too. Those notches in the bottom are what are throwing me, too, as far as finding an exact match. I've got a feeling there are a couple of different ones that will work, so long as you're careful with polarity. The pin spacing on it is probably nothing special.

Brandon
Since i'm going to be soldering the other end to a board, the polarity is not really important. Getting the right connector, so that it fits snug is the most important part.


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Current Tank Info: 240 gallon with a 80 gal sump. 400w Solaris lighting, MR-3 skimmer, Reeflow barracuda pump. 2 mp40w es
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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:28 AM   #11
CloudIX
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I went as far as to e-mail this picture to TYCO and they said if it dont have AMP or TYCO logo on it, then it was not there connector.


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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:32 AM   #12
Pickupman66
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Interesting.. I have a hard time believeing it was made just for Solaris.


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15 years reef keeping experience in old school simplistic ways.
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Current Tank Info: 66 Gallon SCA Rimless, Custom 40 Breeder sump, DC pumps, Lumentek Pro 240 controlled by my Archon
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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:46 AM   #13
CloudIX
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Oh me 2, I'm sure someone has them. That company did not have deep enough pockets to have connectors custom made. Plus i think i have seen connectors like this on circuit boards before, I just don't know what they are called.


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Current Tank Info: 240 gallon with a 80 gal sump. 400w Solaris lighting, MR-3 skimmer, Reeflow barracuda pump. 2 mp40w es
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Unread 03/09/2011, 11:53 AM   #14
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following this one


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Unread 03/09/2011, 12:06 PM   #15
Pickupman66
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how big is it? same size as a CPU fan or disk power cable?


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What a Pretty day to stick your head in your tank and stare at your corals.

15 years reef keeping experience in old school simplistic ways.
/><{{{{"> Archon BETA

Current Tank Info: 66 Gallon SCA Rimless, Custom 40 Breeder sump, DC pumps, Lumentek Pro 240 controlled by my Archon
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Unread 03/09/2011, 12:13 PM   #16
rcmike
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Brandon, I am disappointed in you. It's a JST-XH connector. Guess what it is used for.




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Unread 03/09/2011, 12:15 PM   #17
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Oh, btw, if you get one from an R/C place just look for a 3 cell JST-XH balance connector. I know Danielle's RC has some pigtails if you want to get them locally but you might want to call them first.


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Unread 03/09/2011, 12:43 PM   #18
CloudIX
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Holy Crap, that's it.. I need to make a run to Danielle's and get a few. I knew i had seen it somewhere.

Once i get the connector i will make a direct swap for some better emitters. I will be measuring the solaris tonight with the clubs new PAR meter. Then once i have made the swap's i will remeasure, so i can show before and after results.


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Current Tank Info: 240 gallon with a 80 gal sump. 400w Solaris lighting, MR-3 skimmer, Reeflow barracuda pump. 2 mp40w es
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Unread 03/09/2011, 12:52 PM   #19
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I'm disappointed in me, too, Mike. I haven't done enough Li-pos yet to have recognized it. Good eye!

Oh, and CloudIX... regardless of how you attach it to the "host" (solder, as you mentioned), the polarity of everything can be reversed if the connector doesn't have any sort of "keying". IE, you can turn it around the wrong way on whatever it plugs in to. That's what I was referring to.

Brandon


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Zip Ties = Reef Duck Tape

Geek it till it MHz!!!

Current Tank Info: 180g Build in Process
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Unread 03/09/2011, 01:17 PM   #20
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Here you go: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9730

Cut those in half and you're in business.

Brandon


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Zip Ties = Reef Duck Tape

Geek it till it MHz!!!

Current Tank Info: 180g Build in Process
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Unread 03/09/2011, 01:22 PM   #21
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Nope Brandon. Those have female JST-XH on one end and polyquest/thunderpower on the other end.


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Unread 03/09/2011, 01:23 PM   #22
NeveSSL
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I quit. Today is not my day.

Brandon


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I am proof that post count is not directly proportional to "reef IQ".

Zip Ties = Reef Duck Tape

Geek it till it MHz!!!

Current Tank Info: 180g Build in Process
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Unread 03/09/2011, 01:26 PM   #23
rcmike
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Unread 03/09/2011, 01:28 PM   #24
CloudIX
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I found them on Digikey, .07 a piece for the connector, .04 a piece for the crimp connector. I got a ton coming in so i can redo the entire light. Much cheaper this way, but a lot more work for me.

Now I'm off to get the emitters, and the aluminum stock and the optics.

Thanks much rcmike, could'nt have found them without you.


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Unread 03/09/2011, 01:37 PM   #25
rcmike
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The only problem with getting just the connectors is trying to crimp them. I have tried to crimp similar sized connectors and it is very difficult without a special crimper. You could always solder them to the wires I guess.


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