Ich in display. Can I Hypo with a Carpet Anenome?

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 01:41 PM

My powder blue tang has ich. ( I know suprise suprise). His tank mates don't seem to. The tusk might ahve a couple of spots. The lion deffinatly does nto and lawnmower doesn't as well. What to do?

Option 1, I have a 30 gallon EMPTY. I am doing a water change today. Do i throw him in there and try to cure it. I am worried about not being cycled.

Option 2, I could also hyposalinty the 30gallon, but again not being cycled worries me. But i could by a ammonia wheel thing and keep an eye on it.

Third option is a frshwater dip then throw him in a different tank (65gallon) that has no ich present currently and has never housed a fish with ich. The promblem is with this is the fact that if a little ich lives and i thorw him in there then i got tanks infested with it.

Forth option. I can hypo salinty the display. I have a anenome in the tank now. I can move him to the 65 untill it is complete or leave him in if it will not effect him. The porblem here is there is no sand bottom and its a carpet so that could stress him out and casue him not to stick. I don't know though maybe he would be fine for 6 weeks.

Fith option. I can dip all fish and put the lion in the 30 and tusk in my frag and the blue in the 65. Then move th lawnmower somewhere in those tanks as well and then leave the tank set empty. The pormbelm again is i move the tusk and blue to the other tanks they have to be clear of the ich so is doesn' infest that tank. (The frag and 65 are on the same system.)

Please feel free to give any other options and or advise. I would gratly apprciate it. I want to get the ich out of the display as well as save the fishes. Thanks your help is greatly apprecaited.

James404 · 04/06/2011, 01:43 PM

If one fish has it, every fish in the tank now has it. Plain and simple.

jeff@zina.com · 04/06/2011, 01:44 PM

Read the sticky at the top of this forum. And no hyposalinity for an anemone.

Jeff

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 01:56 PM

Ok read the sticky. Thanks. Do you tink my carpet would be fine with out a sand bottom so I could hypo my display. It s a fish only.

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 02:15 PM

I don't have a tank big enough. I have only a 30 gallon. These are all larger fish. Do i need to go set up another tank? Or is a 30 ok?
Also is there any chemicals out there that help with new tank syndrome. I don't want to loose any of these guys. Please help new at this!

strat24 · 04/06/2011, 02:24 PM

Set up a 2nd tank for hypo or copper(not both). Leaving your DT free of FISH for 6-8 weeks is the only way to rid your system of this pest. You only need to QT all the fish in infected aquarium regardless if they show signs. Just research your fish to see what the best treatment option is. (Copper or Hypo).

http://www.chucksaddiction.com/ich.html

Sk8r · 04/06/2011, 02:27 PM

Go to the Fish Disease forum and read the new stickies on treatment options. There are several.

Palting · 04/06/2011, 02:43 PM

My kind of guy. New at this, but has 3 tanks

As the sticky says, best option is to QT and treat all the fish and leave the DT fishless. I don't know how large your fish are, but 30 gal is a decent size, and should handle 4 fish, I would think.

So you're worried about new tank syndrome. If your fish is not deathly ill, you maintain good parameters and it eats well, you may actually have some time to set up and quickly cycle your QT/HT. You'll have to get some kind of filtration for the QT/HT (I use a cannister filter), with some kind of synthetic biomedia (like a sponge, bioballs, ceramic discs). You can seed this by either throwing them into your sump or by using commercial bacteria in a bottle, place a frozen shrimp, then transfer the fish after about a week or 2. It's still incompletely cycled, so have Amquel or equivalent and lots of new saltwater available. Copper of hypo treat. I like hypo.

You can also hypo you almost fish-only tank, but you MUST transfer your anemone and all inverts. Be prepared for a significant die-off of critters like your copepods, amphipods, worms, etc. Syphon your substrate and clean your meachical filters frequently, and do frequent water changes to control nitrates. This is what I did for my Ich treatment

. Here's a link to a step-by-step if that's what you want to do: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1892446

Good Luck!!

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 03:02 PM

Ok i bought a refracometer 2 sponge filters and some ammonia disk. Do you think everything will be ok untill Friday when i gets here or should i take them out now. Atleast the ones that appear to be affected.

travis32 · 04/06/2011, 03:06 PM

I just got done treating a Powder brown tang (around 5") in a 29gallon. He was definately cramped, but I use Hypo for all my Ich treatments. I find it's easy to maintain hypo in a closed system like a 29 with no sump, very little evaporation.

I use LIve rock for the hypo treatment. I've done this with multiple fish and have had great success. With My powder brown tang in the 29. I didn't do any water changes for 4 weeks. There was a lot of algae cover the rocks and glass, but, the tang was fine and is fine completely ich free in the display now. Your other tanks will have ich in them while they have fish. But, just like your display, if the other tanks that you used for QT are fishless for 6-8 weeks, then it doesn't matter, the ich will die in those tanks after a couple months.

I do this with my QT all the time. I had 3-5 months between my last fish that I QT'd and when I QT'd the tang. I fed some flake and shrimp every 2 to 3 weeks to keep the Live rock cycled.

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 04:21 PM

Wouldn't the rock die when you hyposalinty?

strat24 · 04/06/2011, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zhewitt04

Wouldn't the rock die when you hyposalinty?

Yep. You don't want to hypo your DT tank. Put some PVC pieces in the hypo tank and have it bare bottom.

If you hypo your DT tank I think you'll open a whole new can of worms.

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 05:10 PM

Ok got the QT tank going. I am using a penguin 300 or something like that untill my foam filters come in. My question is should i try to cycle it in or just drop the infected fish in and do water changes every other day becasue I am going to have to do water changes anyways right? So why wait to cycle in?

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 05:14 PM

I know all fish are infected. I ment the fish showing signs of ich. I am going to get another tank going this weekend. For the lion and lawnmower who show no signs of ich.

How much baking soda do I use when making up a batch to drip. I read where i can bake baking soda to make sodium chloride to help with the pH. I am really confused by how much, how its done and the whole thing really. I was going make a batch up but not sure even how much to bake.

Also the powder is still eating mysis and nori. Good news!

DownwardDawg · 04/06/2011, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zhewitt04

Ok got the QT tank going. I am using a penguin 300 or something like that untill my foam filters come in. My question is should i try to cycle it in or just drop the infected fish in and do water changes every other day becasue I am going to have to do water changes anyways right? So why wait to cycle in?

Check with sk8r. I don't think you cycle at all. Mix new water, bring uo to temp, and add new fish.

strat24 · 04/06/2011, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zhewitt04

Ok got the QT tank going. I am using a penguin 300 or something like that untill my foam filters come in. My question is should i try to cycle it in or just drop the infected fish in and do water changes every other day becasue I am going to have to do water changes anyways right? So why wait to cycle in?

I've had mine going for a few weeks. I would keep the bio-wheel going even when you get your foam filters.

I have some rock set up like a cave, an airstone, MJ400, penguin 300 bio-wheel , and some PVC pieces scattered around the 55 gallon. I do around 10 gallon water change every other day and the fish seem happy.

Sk8r · 04/06/2011, 05:27 PM

I prefer a pot filter that can be changed daily. I use a maxijet or bigger in the bottom of a small container, with pillow floss weighted down to stay put, to sop up any floating ich-bits. You'll probably be ok, but watch your oxygenation: if you were using a med, which usually depletes oxygen, it can get dicey: using hypo, you're safer, but still---watch it like a hawk; and do not allow evaporation to bounce that salinity up, either---that helps the ich survive and you don't want that. Best of all worlds is a float valve and a gravity fed topoff, but if you're doing ok, keep going. Just always be aware that a qt is the ultimate overcrowded tank, and treat it very delicately. Good luck to you.

zhewitt04 · 04/06/2011, 05:39 PM

Thanks sk8r. I was going to see what you had on the topic. What do you prefer on cycling in the tank or jsut throwing him in there right now and getting him out of the display?

whilb · 04/06/2011, 05:53 PM

7 yrs ago I had a Hippo and a yellow tang with ICH I just kept good water quality and fed them Italian style (lot's o garlic) I just lost the yellow tang and still have the Hippo and never any more Ich. all your fish have it now just keep them healty and they will be fine.

04/06/2011, 01:41 PM	#1
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	Ich in display. Can I Hypo with a Carpet Anenome? My powder blue tang has ich. ( I know suprise suprise). His tank mates don't seem to. The tusk might ahve a couple of spots. The lion deffinatly does nto and lawnmower doesn't as well. What to do? Option 1, I have a 30 gallon EMPTY. I am doing a water change today. Do i throw him in there and try to cure it. I am worried about not being cycled. Option 2, I could also hyposalinty the 30gallon, but again not being cycled worries me. But i could by a ammonia wheel thing and keep an eye on it. Third option is a frshwater dip then throw him in a different tank (65gallon) that has no ich present currently and has never housed a fish with ich. The promblem is with this is the fact that if a little ich lives and i thorw him in there then i got tanks infested with it. Forth option. I can hypo salinty the display. I have a anenome in the tank now. I can move him to the 65 untill it is complete or leave him in if it will not effect him. The porblem here is there is no sand bottom and its a carpet so that could stress him out and casue him not to stick. I don't know though maybe he would be fine for 6 weeks. Fith option. I can dip all fish and put the lion in the 30 and tusk in my frag and the blue in the 65. Then move th lawnmower somewhere in those tanks as well and then leave the tank set empty. The pormbelm again is i move the tusk and blue to the other tanks they have to be clear of the ich so is doesn' infest that tank. (The frag and 65 are on the same system.) Please feel free to give any other options and or advise. I would gratly apprciate it. I want to get the ich out of the display as well as save the fishes. Thanks your help is greatly apprecaited.

04/06/2011, 01:43 PM	#2
James404 I <3 Acros Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 2,523	If one fish has it, every fish in the tank now has it. Plain and simple. __________________ 80g Deep Blue Rimless - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651295 225g Reef Savvy SPS Dominant - Retired http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1945361

04/06/2011, 02:27 PM	#7
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	Go to the Fish Disease forum and read the new stickies on treatment options. There are several. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

04/06/2011, 02:43 PM	#8
Palting Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 6,912	My kind of guy. New at this, but has 3 tanks As the sticky says, best option is to QT and treat all the fish and leave the DT fishless. I don't know how large your fish are, but 30 gal is a decent size, and should handle 4 fish, I would think. So you're worried about new tank syndrome. If your fish is not deathly ill, you maintain good parameters and it eats well, you may actually have some time to set up and quickly cycle your QT/HT. You'll have to get some kind of filtration for the QT/HT (I use a cannister filter), with some kind of synthetic biomedia (like a sponge, bioballs, ceramic discs). You can seed this by either throwing them into your sump or by using commercial bacteria in a bottle, place a frozen shrimp, then transfer the fish after about a week or 2. It's still incompletely cycled, so have Amquel or equivalent and lots of new saltwater available. Copper of hypo treat. I like hypo. You can also hypo you almost fish-only tank, but you MUST transfer your anemone and all inverts. Be prepared for a significant die-off of critters like your copepods, amphipods, worms, etc. Syphon your substrate and clean your meachical filters frequently, and do frequent water changes to control nitrates. This is what I did for my Ich treatment . Here's a link to a step-by-step if that's what you want to do: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1892446 Good Luck!! __________________ Anything I post is just an opinion. One of many in this hobby. Believe and follow at your own risk of rapid and complete annihilation of all life in your tank :) Current Tank Info: Incept 3/2010, 150 RR, 50g sump, 20g fuge, 150w 15K MH x3, T5 actinics x8, moonlight LED x6, 1400gph return, Koralia 1400 x4, 300 g skimmer, 4 tangs, 2 mandarins, 2 perc, 6 line, 3 cardinals, 2 firefish, SPS, LPS, zoas, palys, shrooms, clam

04/06/2011, 05:27 PM	#17
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	I prefer a pot filter that can be changed daily. I use a maxijet or bigger in the bottom of a small container, with pillow floss weighted down to stay put, to sop up any floating ich-bits. You'll probably be ok, but watch your oxygenation: if you were using a med, which usually depletes oxygen, it can get dicey: using hypo, you're safer, but still---watch it like a hawk; and do not allow evaporation to bounce that salinity up, either---that helps the ich survive and you don't want that. Best of all worlds is a float valve and a gravity fed topoff, but if you're doing ok, keep going. Just always be aware that a qt is the ultimate overcrowded tank, and treat it very delicately. Good luck to you. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

04/06/2011, 01:44 PM	#3
jeff@zina.com Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 3,345	Read the sticky at the top of this forum. And no hyposalinity for an anemone. Jeff

04/06/2011, 01:56 PM	#4
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	Ok read the sticky. Thanks. Do you tink my carpet would be fine with out a sand bottom so I could hypo my display. It s a fish only.

04/06/2011, 02:15 PM	#5
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	I don't have a tank big enough. I have only a 30 gallon. These are all larger fish. Do i need to go set up another tank? Or is a 30 ok? Also is there any chemicals out there that help with new tank syndrome. I don't want to loose any of these guys. Please help new at this!

04/06/2011, 02:24 PM	#6
strat24 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: NWI Posts: 236	Set up a 2nd tank for hypo or copper(not both). Leaving your DT free of FISH for 6-8 weeks is the only way to rid your system of this pest. You only need to QT all the fish in infected aquarium regardless if they show signs. Just research your fish to see what the best treatment option is. (Copper or Hypo). http://www.chucksaddiction.com/ich.html

04/06/2011, 03:02 PM	#9
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	Ok i bought a refracometer 2 sponge filters and some ammonia disk. Do you think everything will be ok untill Friday when i gets here or should i take them out now. Atleast the ones that appear to be affected.

04/06/2011, 03:06 PM	#10
travis32 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: West Fargo, ND Posts: 2,161	I just got done treating a Powder brown tang (around 5") in a 29gallon. He was definately cramped, but I use Hypo for all my Ich treatments. I find it's easy to maintain hypo in a closed system like a 29 with no sump, very little evaporation. I use LIve rock for the hypo treatment. I've done this with multiple fish and have had great success. With My powder brown tang in the 29. I didn't do any water changes for 4 weeks. There was a lot of algae cover the rocks and glass, but, the tang was fine and is fine completely ich free in the display now. Your other tanks will have ich in them while they have fish. But, just like your display, if the other tanks that you used for QT are fishless for 6-8 weeks, then it doesn't matter, the ich will die in those tanks after a couple months. I do this with my QT all the time. I had 3-5 months between my last fish that I QT'd and when I QT'd the tang. I fed some flake and shrimp every 2 to 3 weeks to keep the Live rock cycled.

04/06/2011, 04:21 PM	#11
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	Wouldn't the rock die when you hyposalinty?

04/06/2011, 05:10 PM	#13
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	Ok got the QT tank going. I am using a penguin 300 or something like that untill my foam filters come in. My question is should i try to cycle it in or just drop the infected fish in and do water changes every other day becasue I am going to have to do water changes anyways right? So why wait to cycle in?

04/06/2011, 05:14 PM	#14
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	I know all fish are infected. I ment the fish showing signs of ich. I am going to get another tank going this weekend. For the lion and lawnmower who show no signs of ich. How much baking soda do I use when making up a batch to drip. I read where i can bake baking soda to make sodium chloride to help with the pH. I am really confused by how much, how its done and the whole thing really. I was going make a batch up but not sure even how much to bake. Also the powder is still eating mysis and nori. Good news!

04/06/2011, 05:39 PM	#18
zhewitt04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Kokomo, IN Posts: 764	Thanks sk8r. I was going to see what you had on the topic. What do you prefer on cycling in the tank or jsut throwing him in there right now and getting him out of the display?

04/06/2011, 05:53 PM	#19
whilb Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Bolingbrook, Illinois Posts: 49	7 yrs ago I had a Hippo and a yellow tang with ICH I just kept good water quality and fed them Italian style (lot's o garlic) I just lost the yellow tang and still have the Hippo and never any more Ich. all your fish have it now just keep them healty and they will be fine.

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