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04/16/2011, 12:44 PM | #1 |
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Location: Central FL
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MH, T5, or both? Need your advice!
I will be upgrading to a 120 gallon acrylic tank that I will be picking up next week. The dimensions are around 48x24x24 and I plan on growing mainly LPS and zoa's, maybe some softies. No SPS. Would you recommend a metal halide setup? If so, should I go with two 250w fixtures? How much more would my electric bill cost compared to T5's? Is the extra heat easily removeable with fans?
Or should I go the T5 route, which is what I currently use now over my 20 gallon. Since the tank is 24" deep, would you recommend an 8 bulb fixture? Or could I get by with 6 since I plan on no SPS? Today I was thinking about maybe getting a single 250w MH and adding a couple retro T5's. How would this work? Which setup would you recommend for what I plan on doing? |
04/16/2011, 01:40 PM | #2 |
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I know a lot of people run their halides with actinic T5s mounted on the front and back. Benefits are more color variety, dawn and dusk with just the T5s on, and they are really easy to mount.
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Super Reef Octopus XP-3000/2 Maxspect G2-160 LED fixtures/35 gallon sump/DigitalAquatics RKE/2 Koralia 1400/1 Vortech MP40ES Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon mixed reef w/ fish |
04/16/2011, 01:41 PM | #3 |
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Would the addition of the T5's allow me to run only 1 250w MH on this size tank?
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04/16/2011, 02:20 PM | #4 |
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Location: NW Iowa
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on a 48" tank you will want 2 MH's. 1mh will cover a 2' sq. section.
I am guessing you have a center brace on the tank? if so that ruels out being able to put the MH in the middle and leaving the sides dimmer and only placeing corals in the middle of the tank. IMO I would look at a dual MH unit, T5's arn't nessassary but nice to have. also when you looks at 2 250 watt Mh's and a 6bulb T5 unit your onl looking at using an extra 100 watts of lighting when using MH's over T5's and won't be much of an impact on the elec. bill. I used to run T5's and now run Mh's due to the shimmer I also run 2 VHO's for dusk dawn effect. the corals really pop under just the VHO's
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75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder |
04/16/2011, 02:30 PM | #5 |
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I due have a center brace, but since the tank is acylic so is the brace, making it clear. Would that still have the same issue as what you were talking about? I'm starting to want to get MH's again...
Here's some pics of the tank I'm looking to pick up next week: |
04/16/2011, 02:33 PM | #6 |
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even with a acrilic center brace it will block some light also the heat from the MH directly over top of it can cause it to become brittle and later break.
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75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder |
04/16/2011, 02:38 PM | #7 |
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Due to its design, do you think I should hold off and get a different tank? Also, if I do go the MH route, I will definitely be running fans to help remove as much heat as possible.
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04/16/2011, 02:44 PM | #8 |
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actually I like the tank, I would still opt for a dual 250 watt MH or a 6bulb T5HO unit. I have just heard people in the past running MH's over their center brace like what your wanting to do and it was always not a good ending which is why I don't suggest it.
I say just trade me that tank for mine and I will throw in 2 MH ballasts in the deal
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75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder |
04/16/2011, 02:47 PM | #9 |
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So it'd be okay to run 250's over each opening without damaging the center brace? And as for trading, I might if you were closer! Guess how much I'm buying it for..
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04/16/2011, 02:56 PM | #10 |
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yeah running 1 MH over each opening is fine as most of the heat is directly under the bulb.
a tank like that around here usually goes for around 400 or so.
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75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge, Clownfish breeder |
04/16/2011, 02:59 PM | #11 |
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Location: Central FL
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Awesome, thats really good to hear! (About the MH's and the price )
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