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Unread 08/04/2011, 12:22 AM   #1
zeroinverse
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Cool Remove/replace center glass top cross-brace on 90 gallon tank

Hi all,

I recently setup a 90 gallon tank.

The top of the tank has a glass center cross-brace that I feel is TOO wide and I want to make it narrower so I don't have to always clean the cross-brace glass. On a reef tank, this would reduce my light transmission right in the middle 1/4 of the tank.

My tank is 48" long, 18" deep, 25" high and is made of 3/8" glass and plastic frame on top and bottom.

There is one center glass cross-brace is 12" wide x 18" deep x 3/8" thick.

My question:
1) Can remove the glass cross-brace entirely?
2) Replace it with a plastic narrower cross-brace?

Thanks in advance for any help.


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Unread 08/04/2011, 12:28 AM   #2
pmrossetti
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I wouldn't mess with it. It's there for a reason--to hold the tank together.

Adjust lighting instead. That's easily and safely done.


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Unread 08/04/2011, 05:31 AM   #3
sbeason
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+1 to pmross.......do not remove the center brace. The tank will bow out if you do on a tank that size.


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Unread 08/04/2011, 02:49 PM   #4
zeroinverse
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Unhappy Can I replace/swap out the glass cross brace with something thinner?

I understand the cross brace prevents tank from bowing...

But right now at 12" wide, it's takes up 1/4 ~1/3 the middle length of my tank.

Hoping maybe someone has done something with a retrofit or custom modification that is reliable. ^_^ (yes, I know, asking for a lot...)


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Unread 08/04/2011, 05:11 PM   #5
RattlerSkin
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I definitely recommend leaving it as is, on my 180 I have a 18" piece of glass as my center brace. It takes up a lot of space, but I figure its better to leave it alone and work around it then try to re-engineer something that works perfectly fine at keeping all 180 gallons behind glass.


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Unread 08/04/2011, 11:38 PM   #6
scarface70706
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if its not broken dont fix it


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Unread 08/04/2011, 11:45 PM   #7
GvineReefer
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You do have the option of removing the center brace and euro-bracing the tank, or adding 2 or 3 smaller supports across the top of the tank. There is a guy locally that has done this several times with no issues, no leaks, and no bowing to date. I would call your LFS and ask if there are any custom tank builders in your area and see if they will do it for you. Someone that is good with glass should be able to handle it as well. It is a job that most of us won't touch, including me, but it is definitely possible and has been successfully done.


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Unread 08/05/2011, 12:05 AM   #8
geaux xman
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my buddy removed his brothers center bracing in a 300g and had a stainless steel(i think) welded. that works out much better for the lights, if you can have someone do that for you.


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Unread 08/05/2011, 12:10 AM   #9
zeroinverse
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Will check my LFS

Quote:
Originally Posted by GvineReefer View Post
You do have the option of removing the center brace and euro-bracing the tank, or adding 2 or 3 smaller supports across the top of the tank. There is a guy locally that has done this several times with no issues, no leaks, and no bowing to date. I would call your LFS and ask if there are any custom tank builders in your area and see if they will do it for you. Someone that is good with glass should be able to handle it as well. It is a job that most of us won't touch, including me, but it is definitely possible and has been successfully done.
I'll check, but do you know if they have to do it with a "drained tank"? Or can they "brace the tank" and do it onsite, "live"?


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Unread 08/05/2011, 07:55 AM   #10
GvineReefer
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I've never heard of it being done on a full tank. If that is the case, I must have missed you saying that previously and would retract my statement. It may be possible, but that's a big risk in my opinion and not very safe. I wouldn't try it with a full tank. JMO


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Unread 08/05/2011, 09:56 AM   #11
Chris27
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Oceanic I'm assuming, that's about the only thing I don't like about them? Just put a small magfloat on it, and run it around a few times a week, it's easy and you don't have to modify the tank, drain it, or drill it. The light will get through it just fine provided it's clean.


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Unread 08/05/2011, 03:43 PM   #12
zeroinverse
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Didn't pay attention to the brand when I bought it used.

Guess sounds like I'll have to live with it. It's just a bit hard to navigate around the tank (as I am still in process of aquascaping) and such. Also means I have to reroute my plumbing around such a big glass brace.

Thanks for the thoughts.

I think I'll try to put a powerhead near there to spray "up" onto the glass to keep it "clean"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris27 View Post
Oceanic I'm assuming, that's about the only thing I don't like about them? Just put a small magfloat on it, and run it around a few times a week, it's easy and you don't have to modify the tank, drain it, or drill it. The light will get through it just fine provided it's clean.



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Unread 08/05/2011, 03:56 PM   #13
GTR
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My center braced cracked on my 110. I made a steel brace to keep it from bowing. One year later the tank blew out a seem. I don't think it was a coincidence.

Friend of mine with a 300g had the center brace pull away from the front panel so the tank started to bow. We drained it down and cleaned it up and applied new silicon. That lasted about a year and it started to pull away again, plus it started leaking in two corners. Tank had to be torn down and rebuilt by the manufacturer.


Neither of these ended in catastrophe but easily could have.

If a center brace half the width would do the job I think that's what the manufacturer would be using. On my custom 175g they dictated to me what would be required if I expected a safe tank with a warranty.


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