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09/10/2011, 07:45 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
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RO/DI System
I'am in the process of aquiring a thousand gallon tank this will be my first salt water and was thinking of getting an RO/DI water system to ensure highwater quality. Is there anything I should be looking for in an RO/DI system? Whats better? What should I be looking for in an RO/DI system?
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09/10/2011, 08:32 PM | #2 |
code monkey
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: south bay
Posts: 6,223
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What I look for is at least 3 stages of sediment/carbon filters, 1 ro membrane filter, and 1 di canister/filter with removable media.
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09/10/2011, 08:37 PM | #3 |
RC Mod
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First, welcome to Reef Central. That's a pretty big tank to start with, but if you go with any of the sponsors in the link above, you'll be fine. Russ at BRS will probably show up. He's always around to help after your purchase if you need him.
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09/10/2011, 08:45 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 126
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Welcome,wow thats a pretty large starter tank.my first one was a 55long but it's all good i would go with no less then a 3 stage ro/di.
Good luck,hope you will be makeing a build thread with lots of pic's and step by step's so others can help.I would for sure tag along with the thread. Dave |
09/10/2011, 10:38 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: B.C. Canada
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A few things to look into first. These will help you decide what's required. Check the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) of your source water. Inexpensive handheld TDS meters are available to do this. Also get a pressure guage and find out what your water pressure is. Anything under 60 psi will not be very efficient and you may need a booster pump unless you have a PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) in your home's plumbing system that you can adjust. Finally, try to get a water quality report from whoever your provider is. Generally they will have a web site with that information. This will also tell you if they use chlorine or chloramine to disinfect the water. If they use chloramine, you will likely need more than one carbon stage before the RO membrane.
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Mike Current Tank Info: 77g sumpless sw with rock, sand, a few critters, fishes & polyps. Lights, pumps..... |
09/11/2011, 05:48 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Alabama
Posts: 51
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Check out Bulk Reef Supply, they have some good educational videos on RODI systems.
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09/11/2011, 07:01 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: London
Posts: 194
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I have owned my own water treatment business for 25 years. Most reverse Osmosis and De-ionizers will do you a good job. There are only a few companies that make the membranes, and fewer that make the DI resins, all are good. Just make sure you get a system where you don't have to change the housing with the membrane. I have seen those in fish stores and they make it 2x more costly to change the membrane. One big mistake fish hobbyists make when buying a RO is, not knowing what the source of your water is. Yes TDS Total Dissolved Solids is important, but the biggest problem with the TDS reading is two components, the calcium and magnesium. Yes the stuff you want to add later on, you want out before it goes into the RO. Nothing makes a RO run poorly than those two minerals. They will clog your RO faster than a buzzard on a gut wagon! They will effect the quality of the water almost instantly. Opening up the pores in the membrane and let other trace elements through the RO that would otherwise be trapped. Do yourself a big favor and get a water softener for your home or a portable one before the RO. The amount of money you will save on your membranes will far out weight the amount you spend on a water softener. As well as removing calcium and magnesium, it removes iron and a few others unwanted minerals as well and it is regenerative resin, unlike the membranes. What the fish stores don't tell you is that the water going into the RO must be below a hardness level of 10 Grains or 171ppm. Until you can achieve this level before it enters the RO, you will be spending a lot more on membranes with poorer quality water at the point of use.
Just my two cents. Your post is in violation of the terms and conditions of use of this web site and has been edited. Further violations will result in revocation of your posting privileges. Last edited by dc; 09/11/2011 at 07:57 AM. |
09/11/2011, 04:46 PM | #8 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
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09/11/2011, 05:01 PM | #10 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,857
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Quote:
No more than 4 stages (sediment, carbon, RO, DI) unless you have specific water quality issues you want to address Standard-sized prefilters, membrane, and DI cartridge Brand name, high-rejection membrane Specifications provided for each stage Pressure gauge after the prefilters and before the membrane Thermometer TDS meter (handheld or in-line) DI bypass Vertical DI stage Refillable DI cartridge Aluminum bracket Quick connect fittings No water from pressurized storage container delivered to DI Flush valve Clear housings High-quality instructions written in clear English Customer support before, during, and after your purchase A vendor involved in your hobby In your case, you may want to look at a light commercial system (larger than 150 gpd), or make sure you have a storage reservoir large enough to hold enough water for a water change. If you go with a light commercial system, there are ways to save money there that we'd be happy to talk with you about if the time comes. We just installed a 300 gpd RODI system for a local public aquarium and trained them up in short order. There are ways to make these systems not much more complicated than a residential scale RODI. With this being your first tank, and with you starting off with such a large system, GO SLOW! Read, research, and read some more before you invest heavily in livestock. Water chemistry is much easier to maintain in a large system, but if you make a mistake, or if you rush things, the potential cost of the mistake could very high. Russ |
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