Phosphates at 2.0 (I think) Could it be my sand bed?

[Salty Rookie]

Tank

100 Gallon (30 gallon sump)

Full-Time Euro-Reef Skimmer (rated for 200 gallon)
Full-Time UV Sterilizer

2 X 86 count 1 watt LED overhanging fixtures
2 Vortech MP40w’s AntiSynced (50% power in Nutrient Transport Mode)

Livestock

5in Naso Tang
3.5in Sailfin Tang
3in Blue Hippo Tang
2in Midas Blenny
1.5in Clownfish (2)
1in Thornback Cowfish
1.5in 6-Line Wrasse
Lots of coral!

I have a few small guys like tiny scooter blenny, neon goby, fire shrimps and emerald crabs. Not listed individually cause I don’t think they have a real impact on the tank.

My problem is my phosphates are high (2.0 tested today) and I can’t figure out how to lower it. I feed only 3-4 times a week. I believe it’s because of my sand bed. It’s easily 3-5 inches in some spots. You can see red looking algae is a problem as well as some green hair algae.


Should I simply scoop out the sand and go bare bottom? Will the quick sand removal hurt the system? My nitrites and nitrate are both at or near zero)

I can upload more pics if needed.

[Salty Rookie]

[snorvich]

Well, it could also be your rock. What did you use?

[snorvich]

I won't comment on your fish selection in that sized tank!

[rayn]

You didn't mention a gfo reactor in your list. A media reactor with some gfo changed out regularly will help to lower you phosphates. It may take a while with them being that high, but worth it in the end.

How and what do you feed? Not just frequency, but if frozen do you rinse?

A dsb could be part of the problem, but a slow removal of some of it is the key. Depending on how old the tank is would determine the amount of gunk in the sand bed. Removing it all quickly could make a huge mess in the tank and create a crash.

[zigzag1]

+1 GFO. It may take lots at that level, and will be leaching from the calcium based substrates for some time. I would also consider lanthanum chloride - be sure to research it well and administer it properly if going this route. JMTC & GL!

[MarineSniper]

Originally Posted by snorvich

I won't comment on your fish selection in that sized tank!

Too many tangs? He's definitely not overstocked

That looks like an API test kit and I had some errant readings with their kits in the past. Y would get t tested at your lfs, especially if it's that high and definitely pick up a gfo reactor. You can get the media (I use and highly recommend Rowaphos) reactor and pump for around $115

[hollister]

Water source Could be a big contributer , whats the water source?
Do you have a lid on your tank ?

Also flow dirrection . I would add a little extra food and look for low flow or no flow areas and adjust to reduce. I would not remove as it can be very beneficial in a reef tank.

[Salty Rookie]

Originally Posted by snorvich

I won't comment on your fish selection in that sized tank!

Good

[Salty Rookie]

Originally Posted by rayn

You didn't mention a gfo reactor in your list. A media reactor with some gfo changed out regularly will help to lower you phosphates. It may take a while with them being that high, but worth it in the end.

How and what do you feed? Not just frequency, but if frozen do you rinse?

A dsb could be part of the problem, but a slow removal of some of it is the key. Depending on how old the tank is would determine the amount of gunk in the sand bed. Removing it all quickly could make a huge mess in the tank and create a crash.

When you say “slow removal" of the sandbed, how slow would you recommend and to what level? 1in, 2in? more?

I’ve got a reactor running with carbon. It helped lower nitrates and nitrites but phosphate still high.

Spoke to LFS and of course he suggested selling me trace elements. I’m more interested in the cause and action versus a quick chemically induced cure-all.

Feeding:

I make my own mix of brine shrimp, squid, krill, nori, and Instant Ocean Nutrient Gel. Frozen in soft drink sized cubes, fed just one cube, 3 − 4 times per week. (typically Mon - Wed - Fri - with a snack over the weekend.)

My water is RO/DI

I will admit my water changes are lacking a bit (20% about once every 3 − 4 weeks.

I still believe my sand bed is too deep but I’m open to suggestions. As for the Tang Police, I have three tangs that barely account for 12 inches of fish. The tank is just 9 months old and it is by no means their permanent home. Spare me please. What a waste of time. I’ve seen how people can be abused on this forum over things like that. I assure you I’m not interested at all in that debate.

[Salty Rookie]

Originally Posted by hollister

Water source Could be a big contributer , whats the water source?
Do you have a lid on your tank ?

Also flow dirrection . I would add a little extra food and look for low flow or no flow areas and adjust to reduce. I would not remove as it can be very beneficial in a reef tank.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have no lid other than the canopy itself. Does that make a difference? First time I’ve heard that? Is it worth designing a glass or acrylic lid?

My MP40’s are position about mid tank on apposing sides, running at roughly 50% power. If I run them much higher for long, my softies close up. (frogspawn, hammerheads, torch coral, etc.)

[rayn]

Originally Posted by Salty Rookie

When you say “slow removal" of the sandbed, how slow would you recommend and to what level? 1in, 2in? more?

I’ve got a reactor running with carbon. It helped lower nitrates and nitrites but phosphate still high.

Spoke to LFS and of course he suggested selling me trace elements. I’m more interested in the cause and action versus a quick chemically induced cure-all.

Feeding:

I make my own mix of brine shrimp, squid, krill, nori, and Instant Ocean Nutrient Gel. Frozen in soft drink sized cubes, fed just one cube, 3 − 4 times per week. (typically Mon - Wed - Fri - with a snack over the weekend.)

My water is RO/DI

I will admit my water changes are lacking a bit (20% about once every 3 − 4 weeks.

I still believe my sand bed is too deep but I’m open to suggestions. As for the Tang Police, I have three tangs that barely account for 12 inches of fish. The tank is just 9 months old and it is by no means their permanent home. Spare me please. What a waste of time. I’ve seen how people can be abused on this forum over things like that. I assure you I’m not interested at all in that debate.

Better more frequent water changes will help, but gfo will play a big part in it. It takes time and needs to be changed often to keep from being saturated and leaching back in. Carbon doesn't really lower nitrates, just helps clean the water up and reduces cloudiness. As for the fish, keep what you want but they do play a role as well. More fish, more food, more waste you have to contend with.

As for the removal, I'm no expert there, just passing on what I have read. Maybe a cup or so every couple days would work, maybe a bit more. I have only a couple inches in the tank and then a dsb in the fuge area. It depends on what you want to keep ultimately as well. Some anemones are sand dwellers and like a dsb to bury their foot in. Maybe you could lower the level in certain spots and leave it deeper in others if you plan on going that route.

[mussel and hate]

You must be adding it somehow for phosphate to accumulate. Either it's in your make up water or your adding it when feeding but it definitely isn't materializing in your sand bed.

Test your RO/DI. If your source water isn't the problem it must be feeding related. GFO, Kalkwasser drip and increased skimming should be effective for phosphate export.

[djkms]

Its not your substrate. Granted detritus will accumulate there since it appears to be some kind of crushed coral.

The problem is, you have nothing taking it out! You need to run GFO, macro algae's or some type of ULNS system (bio pellets, vodka, etc).

Phosphates are added by food, rock, waste, etc

You have gone months without anything removing phosphates. I would guess the test is pretty accurate.

After I cycled my tank with just live rock my phosphates where around 1ppm.