Quick question about RODI unit.

[sharkman121]

Hey guys, this is my ro di unit, however water is not coming thru the last stage the DI. The water comes out flowing nicely after the RO stages, it enters the Di chamber however nothing comes out. So ive been using just RO water for a while now to put in my tank.

Any idea what could be causing this, do i need to change my DI filter. A few ppl suggested that maybe my DI chamber was dried out but when i opened it up it seemed pretty wet and was full. Any help would be appreciated.

enclosed are a few of my pics if that helps any...

[jbonez]

di might be clogged what is your pressure from the house into your ro/di unit??? i might not have enough pressure imo..

[sharkman121]

honestly i think i do not have enough pressure. However i used to get enough water thru it to fill my bin before. So yr saying since its clogged now the water pressure i have may not be enough? Does this mean i have to change the DI.

ive only used it about 10 times before,w ondering how it may have become clogged already

[jbonez]

if only used 10 times its not clogged you should invest in a pressure gauge i got mine from
bulkreefsupply.com

[sharkman121]

thanks man, do i need a pressure gauge & a booster pump. Or will the pump do alone?

[jasimek]

i have been watching videos on taking care of aquariums and i had a question about filling the tank after evaporation...they said to use freshwater and had two bins with water...one was ro/di and the other was freshwater. they said to fill the tank with freshwater to take care of the evaporation. i currently have the fresh water going down my sump pump and pumped outside of my house. which should i use ro/di or freshwater?

[sharkman121]

Always use ro di water (unsalted) to top off

[jbonez]

buy the pressure gauge first you would want at least 55 psi thats a good flow rate coming from the house to your ro/di unit if you dont have that i would get a booster pump.. i have 60psi with no pump...

[sharkman121]

...

[sharkman121]

Originally Posted by sharkman121

The thing is, on certain days i have extremely high water pressure. This is when i full my rodi cntrs. Im sure it exceeds the recommended 55psi. So ill buy the pressure gauge and check it first..

[Todd_Sails]

Why is the 1/4" line to the Di disonnedted in the pic?

[jbonez]

heres mine shark
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/GEDC0450.jpg


airwaterice.com

[sharkman121]

Originally Posted by Todd_Sails

Why is the 1/4" line to the Di disonnedted in the pic?

i just disconnected it when i opened the canister to check the di resin.

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yes - yoe really need two tools to run these systems well: a pressure gauge and a tds meter.

We always hear people talk about how all RODI systems are the same. Really? Hmm, I guess not having a p gauge doesn't count as a distinction!

So w/o a gauge, you don't really know if you have enough pressure to run the system in the first place, nor if your prefilters are clogging.

My guess is that your DI is not clogged, and that if you waited long enough, you'd see DI water come out.

If you think you might have low pressure and that you'll end up getting a pump - then you might want to get a liquid filled pressure gauge. Dry gauges don't hold up well if you get a booster pump.

You'll need a pressure gauge add on kit - not just the gauge.

Russ

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by jbonez

you would want at least 55 psi thats a good flow rate coming from the house to your ro/di unit if you dont have that i would get a booster pump..

Filmtec brand membranes are factory spec'ed at 50 psi. Other brands at 60 or 65 psi. Filmtecs will work marginally all they way down to 40 psi, but more pressure is better.

Russ

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by jbonez

heres mine shark
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/GEDC0450.jpg

That system has a horizontal DI stage. We recommend you remove that from its clips and orient it so the DI is vertical with bottom up flow.

Russ

[bnumair]

i think ur DI unit is clogged or ur water line doesnt have enough pressure to push it through.

[sharkman121]

Hey thanks alot guys, ill go shopping for a water filled pressure gauge.

[sharkman121]

Im seein this gauge on BRS, its a glycerin filled. Is this different from a water filled? An is this a kit? im not seein any else on BRS.com.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...1-100-psi.html

[jbonez]

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...1-100-psi.html
thats the one i have....

[jbonez]

Originally Posted by BuckeyeFS

That system has a horizontal DI stage. We recommend you remove that from its clips and orient it so the DI is vertical with bottom up flow.

Russ

why is that theres noway to have it like that unless i build a bracket or something

[Buckeye Hydro]

You want a gauge where your anticipated pressure is near the center of the pressure range. So if you are planning on using the gague with a pump running at 80 psi, you'd want a 0 to 160 psi gauge.

Russ

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by jbonez

why is that theres noway to have it like that unless i build a bracket or something

All you need is a clip or two like this:


From our FAQ's:

Are horizontal DI housings OK?

Horizontal DI housings are a design intended to minimize the original cost of the system - you should be prepared for the tradeoffs. Horizontal DI units typically contain 8 oz. to 16 oz. of resin. Typical vertical DI cartridges contain 20 oz of resin. Obviously the more resin contained in the housing the longer it will last and the better treatment it will provide.

Some horizontal DI housings are not refillable - you'll therefore have to pay for a new housing every time you need to replace the DI resin. The cost of repeatedly replacing the horizontal housing will far outweigh any money saved up-front in purchasing the unit.

Perhaps most importantly, horizontal DI housings are a less than ideal arrangement for water treatment. DI resin beds shrink through normal use over their life span. You'll note that a cartridge that was full when new can sometimes have a ¼ inch of empty space in it when fully expended. When DI resin settles in a horizontal housing, it leaves a pathway (of least resistance) along the top of the housing where water can flow while coming into minimal contact with the DI resin.



You’ll note that the output from the DI housing is at the center of the end of the housing. Depending upon how your system is configured, RO water may enter the DI housing in port, fill up the housing until the water level reaches the out port (i.e., fill up the bottom half of housing), and then exit the DI housing. Your RO water has been in contact only with half the resin in the housing.

Russ

[shifty51008]

here is a good one BFS-143
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/sh...ry=201&Sub=109

[shifty51008]

double