Connecting overflow to drain spa hose

nossalucard · 11/02/2011, 03:49 PM

Can anyone please help me (not a plumber, but I'm learning) to connect this overflow bulkhead from aquatraders:

to this hose from HD:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...12&R=202257712

I went to HD and tried to find a threaded coupling that fits this bulkhead (not sure if that was how I'm supposed to connect it or not but thought I'd try), and nothing they have has the right thread pattern to match this bulkhead.

Being as clueless as I am with plumbing, can someone please help me? I've almost got all the return done, and need to solve this issue for the drain.

Is anything supposed to screw on those external bulkhead threads, or am I supposed to glue a hard PVC pipe "inside" (slip fit) the bulkhead and attach the spa hose to the hard PVC? If so, do I just clamp the hose, and if so will it be watertight being that spa flex has the ridges in it??

Thanks AGAIN. I know you all are tired of the noobie questions, but I really do appreciate the help....

I'm just trying to do it right and NOT rush it/half arse do it...

lordjnx · 11/02/2011, 03:55 PM

if thats a 1" bulkhead you might try using a section of pipe ... one of the pool hoses i use will fit tight around a regular piece of 1" pipe ( no fittings ) ...if yours works just put a 6-8" section of pipe in the bottom of the bulkhead and move on... u can use some glue if it makes you feel safer.

evsalty · 11/02/2011, 04:06 PM

The outside threads are soley for the bulkhead nut. The inside of the bulkhead is where you attach your plumbing. So if the inside of yours is slip then yes you will want to glue a piece of correct size pvc pipe. If it had threads you would use a threaded adapter.

Todd_Sails · 11/02/2011, 04:52 PM

Or, you can use the 1" tubing, available byu the foot at most Big Box stores, hardware, etc. Heat in in hot water, slip it on the fitting, could even use a hose clamp if so desired.

Spa hose is so expensive per ft. and overkill IMHO.

blueramSeattle · 11/02/2011, 05:09 PM

I did something like Todd suggests with a ~6" piece of PVC glued into the bulkhead fitting with 1" internal diameter (ID) tube fit on the outside of that tube. I traditionally grab a 1" pipe (like the 2' precut type) and walk over to the vinyl tube section. Find the pipe you can jam on the end (I get the braided stuff for no particular reason). I then walk over to the weird gray barb/thread adapter section next to the funny pipe. I like to use the threaded adapters into rigid tubing into the sump. YMMV.

Consider a durso/stockman for the overflow box. Consider a "P" trap in the sump for noise.

You can remove the flex tube and remove the bulkhead nut if needed.

blueramSeattle · 11/02/2011, 05:18 PM

The pond people use a flexible coupling on the pump. Google "Flexible PVC Connector" and ask yourself if you would like to have the material in your reef.

Spa Flex is smooth and glues like pvc. There is a "flex hose" product with ridges. Depending on the end fittings of the flex hose you can just slip fit into the bulkhead. I did this (friction fit) on a planted tank but I like a little more bulk and security on a reef so I use barbs or clamps.

nossalucard · 11/02/2011, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueramSeattle

Consider a durso/stockman for the overflow box. Consider a "P" trap in the sump for noise.

You can remove the flex tube and remove the bulkhead nut if needed.

Yeah, I was thinking about doing a "gurglebuster" mod inside the overflow box once I have all the main attachment issues figured out...

What scares me was when I put a piece of hard PVC up into that bulkhead, it wasn't very tight. There was still just a wee bit of play(the pvc can EASILY turn without ANY resistance), and I'm wondering how to make sure that will be waterproof/not leak...hmm Silicone maybe???
I just don't see how PVC "glue will close that small amount of play.

I never knew so many of you "freestyle" on this plumbing stuff. I thought there was a "right way" and a "wrong way" only. Now I see it's just like in my career field. As we used to say when I started in IT, there's the right way, the wrong way and the Microsoft way(only needed the Msft. way to pass the certs way back when I got certified..LOL).

Anyway, always more to learn.

THANK YOU ALL!!! I guess I'll go back to HD and Lowes tomorrow...for the UMPTEENTH TIME.

I just know they're getting a laugh out of watching me anyway(look at that odd customer-guy walking around with a big grey water pump(mag18) and a weird black plexiglass box with a sponge/PVC pipe and blue bulkhead in it)....LOL. I should just wear a question mark on my forehead. They don't try to help anyway..LOL

Todd_Sails · 11/04/2011, 12:36 PM

If you have a high output return pump,
You may need to 'choke' it down with a valve, otherwise you may max out the overflow=wet floor.

Good luck

seapug · 11/04/2011, 12:48 PM

You're not alone. I'm in the process of plumbing my new 200 gallon DD and had the exact same questions about the drains (and every other part of the process). Just remember if you glue hard PVC into the drain bulkheads, you want to have some way to remove it or use a short piece with flexible hose extending down to the sump or you'll never be able to remove your sump without sawing off the drain pipe.

Potential Mistakes like that are what make the process so tedious and require a lot of planning ahead for unions, ball and gate valves in the plumbing scheme. In many cases, once you glue, there's no turning back.

nossalucard · 11/04/2011, 03:47 PM

Thanks again for all the tips guys/gals.

I found that exact blue and black spa flex at HD today(6ft=$16.00) in 1-1/2 size which fits extremely tightly once forced over the bulkead threads), as well as 10ft. black vinyl flex tube(for dual return off of a barbed T) in 3/4 ID size. Yea, I bought twice as much as I needed of both, JUST IN CASE I SCREW UP

By using 3/4 hard (threaded) PVC from the mag18 till the spot where I'm "T'ing" it off, then to 2 returns through 3/4 flex also, I'm HOPING to be able to use this Mag18. The overflow only handles 600GPH, so anyone wanna guess how much I've been able to tone this puppy down with the following:

3/4 Hard(threaded) PVC to Flex---- all 3/4 (2-90degree elbows/1-"T" to split the return into 2) plus 3 foot of head
Also have a coupler right at the pumps exit, and a ball valve just in case.

Just need to order those return tubes, filter sock and holder, silicone in the baffles, get a few more clamps,make final cuts(measure "THRICE" cut once) and I can wet test with fresh water...

seapug · 11/04/2011, 04:15 PM

plug all your numbers in here for an idea what kind of head loss you'll have:

http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php...oss-calculator

nossalucard · 11/09/2011, 05:09 PM

Unless the return pipes count as 90 degree elbows(that would be 2-90's per tube right?), which would put me at 751gph

Looks like that ball valve will come in handy then...

11/02/2011, 03:49 PM	#1
nossalucard Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: MS. Posts: 273	Connecting overflow to drain spa hose Can anyone please help me (not a plumber, but I'm learning) to connect this overflow bulkhead from aquatraders: to this hose from HD: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...12&R=202257712 I went to HD and tried to find a threaded coupling that fits this bulkhead (not sure if that was how I'm supposed to connect it or not but thought I'd try), and nothing they have has the right thread pattern to match this bulkhead. Being as clueless as I am with plumbing, can someone please help me? I've almost got all the return done, and need to solve this issue for the drain. Is anything supposed to screw on those external bulkhead threads, or am I supposed to glue a hard PVC pipe "inside" (slip fit) the bulkhead and attach the spa hose to the hard PVC? If so, do I just clamp the hose, and if so will it be watertight being that spa flex has the ridges in it?? Thanks AGAIN. I know you all are tired of the noobie questions, but I really do appreciate the help.... I'm just trying to do it right and NOT rush it/half arse do it...

11/04/2011, 12:48 PM	#9
seapug Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: 4980 ft. Posts: 7,954 Blog Entries: 1	You're not alone. I'm in the process of plumbing my new 200 gallon DD and had the exact same questions about the drains (and every other part of the process). Just remember if you glue hard PVC into the drain bulkheads, you want to have some way to remove it or use a short piece with flexible hose extending down to the sump or you'll never be able to remove your sump without sawing off the drain pipe. Potential Mistakes like that are what make the process so tedious and require a lot of planning ahead for unions, ball and gate valves in the plumbing scheme. In many cases, once you glue, there's no turning back. __________________ insert clever saying here. Current Tank Info: 200 gallon custom Marineland DD peninsular tank. LPS dominated mixed reef. Previous 90 gallon mixed reef TOTM April 2009.

11/04/2011, 04:15 PM	#11
seapug Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: 4980 ft. Posts: 7,954 Blog Entries: 1	plug all your numbers in here for an idea what kind of head loss you'll have: http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php...oss-calculator __________________ insert clever saying here. Current Tank Info: 200 gallon custom Marineland DD peninsular tank. LPS dominated mixed reef. Previous 90 gallon mixed reef TOTM April 2009.

11/09/2011, 05:09 PM	#12
nossalucard Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: MS. Posts: 273	Still over 800 according to head loss calculator Unless the return pipes count as 90 degree elbows(that would be 2-90's per tube right?), which would put me at 751gph Looks like that ball valve will come in handy then...

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11/02/2011, 03:55 PM	#2
lordjnx Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Central Arkansas Posts: 46	if thats a 1" bulkhead you might try using a section of pipe ... one of the pool hoses i use will fit tight around a regular piece of 1" pipe ( no fittings ) ...if yours works just put a 6-8" section of pipe in the bottom of the bulkhead and move on... u can use some glue if it makes you feel safer.

11/02/2011, 04:06 PM	#3
evsalty hmmmmmm Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: NW Mesa, AZ Posts: 3,531	The outside threads are soley for the bulkhead nut. The inside of the bulkhead is where you attach your plumbing. So if the inside of yours is slip then yes you will want to glue a piece of correct size pvc pipe. If it had threads you would use a threaded adapter.

11/02/2011, 04:52 PM	#4
Todd_Sails Moved On Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: A Texan in Franklin WI. Posts: 443	Or, you can use the 1" tubing, available byu the foot at most Big Box stores, hardware, etc. Heat in in hot water, slip it on the fitting, could even use a hose clamp if so desired. Spa hose is so expensive per ft. and overkill IMHO.

11/02/2011, 05:09 PM	#5
blueramSeattle Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 132	I did something like Todd suggests with a ~6" piece of PVC glued into the bulkhead fitting with 1" internal diameter (ID) tube fit on the outside of that tube. I traditionally grab a 1" pipe (like the 2' precut type) and walk over to the vinyl tube section. Find the pipe you can jam on the end (I get the braided stuff for no particular reason). I then walk over to the weird gray barb/thread adapter section next to the funny pipe. I like to use the threaded adapters into rigid tubing into the sump. YMMV. Consider a durso/stockman for the overflow box. Consider a "P" trap in the sump for noise. You can remove the flex tube and remove the bulkhead nut if needed.

11/02/2011, 05:18 PM	#6
blueramSeattle Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 132	The pond people use a flexible coupling on the pump. Google "Flexible PVC Connector" and ask yourself if you would like to have the material in your reef. Spa Flex is smooth and glues like pvc. There is a "flex hose" product with ridges. Depending on the end fittings of the flex hose you can just slip fit into the bulkhead. I did this (friction fit) on a planted tank but I like a little more bulk and security on a reef so I use barbs or clamps.

11/04/2011, 12:36 PM	#8
Todd_Sails Moved On Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: A Texan in Franklin WI. Posts: 443	If you have a high output return pump, You may need to 'choke' it down with a valve, otherwise you may max out the overflow=wet floor. Good luck

11/04/2011, 03:47 PM	#10
nossalucard Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: MS. Posts: 273	Thanks again for all the tips guys/gals. I found that exact blue and black spa flex at HD today(6ft=$16.00) in 1-1/2 size which fits extremely tightly once forced over the bulkead threads), as well as 10ft. black vinyl flex tube(for dual return off of a barbed T) in 3/4 ID size. Yea, I bought twice as much as I needed of both, JUST IN CASE I SCREW UP By using 3/4 hard (threaded) PVC from the mag18 till the spot where I'm "T'ing" it off, then to 2 returns through 3/4 flex also, I'm HOPING to be able to use this Mag18. The overflow only handles 600GPH, so anyone wanna guess how much I've been able to tone this puppy down with the following: 3/4 Hard(threaded) PVC to Flex---- all 3/4 (2-90degree elbows/1-"T" to split the return into 2) plus 3 foot of head Also have a coupler right at the pumps exit, and a ball valve just in case. Just need to order those return tubes, filter sock and holder, silicone in the baffles, get a few more clamps,make final cuts(measure "THRICE" cut once) and I can wet test with fresh water...